How to remove non-sticky sticky stuff??

I recently bought a replacement window switch holder plate for the passenger side of my 355. It has the original OEM coating but its not yet sticky. Its still pristine but no telling how long it will stay this way before it too turns sticky. I am tempted to take my chances, leave it alone and just put it on the door but it would be the only part in the entire car that has not been refinished and its only a matter of time before it goes........

So, in the interest of consistency, I would prefer to refinish this part too but I'm told getting the OEM finish off that has not yet gone sticky is very difficult. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did you get the coating off? Is it as difficult as I have been led to believe? Does it all come off evenly or what?

Help please.

 

Razor blades, Jerry. None of the chemical known will do it (without also harming the plastic).

As a side note: we recently procured a spider switch trim for a customer. It was a genuine OEM part but the quality was horrible. I'm talking about the plastic and the injection mold. The plastic used was not the same as the original.

My suspicion is this part is being made by a different vendor for Ferrari than the original. This may have been one of the NLA parts that are now being reproduced.

Once we removed the soft touch coating, we had to use filler and primer to shape the part up prior to our finish coats.

 

You can remove it with rubbing alcohol and 3723 Q-tips....
I.E., it's a VERY slow and tedious task. It's also time consuming to get an even finish across the part. Then once finished, the surface underneath will not be the same as a original piece, it will have a bit more shine.

 

He is correct - rubbing alcohol does work but on a new part without coating failure, it will take forever. When I said "no chemical will work", I meant no soak and gone. It's all very labor intensive and time consuming.

 

I used Simply Green and it took the goo off with a little rubbing. It leaves a clean plastic that does not look as nice as Dave's finished pieces but does not look bad at all.

 

I've had reasonably good luck soaking parts in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Scrub the surface (white ScotchBrite works well), resoak, repeat. Less than 91% doesn't work as well (I assume a higher percentage would work better) and oddly enough, denatured alcohol doesn't work nearly as well as isopropyl.

 

Bob, simple green won't do anything on a brand new part in which the coating has not begun to fail.

Yes - 99% isopropyl works the best and it won't harm most plastics.

I'll share a rather embarrassing story....

When I got started on this as a hobby, one of my friends (here) needed a new vent and found one and sent it to me. The coating had not failed at all yet and I was really struggling to get it off. I got frustrated and did something really stupid - I dunked in in lacquer thinner. My (bad) thinking was a quick dunk in / out would be ok. Wrong, dead wrong. I can tell you this, the soft touch coating actually feel right off in sections but the vent was also completely destroyed. So, the dumb mistake put me in a position where I gave one of my vents to the customer (with full disclosure) and then I had to procure a replacement for myself.

 

I found it amazing how tough the coating on a new part was.

My solution, and I wouldn't try this unless you are really comfortable loosing the part, is to put it in an oven at 175 degrees for awhile. It works, but I suspect if you forget about it, it will be a blob.

 

You're right Dave. My vents and switches were really bad when I did it.

 

Yep and at that point, just about anything works

Heating can help but don't go that hot. To be safe, keep the temp 140 or below and don't go by what the oven setting is - get a thermometer and check the true oven temperature.

I actually have another embarrassing story and Watson, it involves you but I will just let this one sit there for a while

 

Funny thing is, in my experience isopropyl alcohol is a better solvent for sticky than what car guys think of as the most aggressive solvents (like lacquer thinner/acetone). Stripped my targa latches last night and went for isopropyl before anything else. Thinking of painting them with Duracoat 'cause I can't afford the blingy refinishing guys.

 

You're right Dave. My vents and switches were really bad when I did it.

 

My moto: 'If you can't measure it, you can't manage it"

I am also a fairly serious cook. My oven is calibrated. Honest. Thermoworks is my friend.

175 is where I tried it and watched quite closely. 140 would probably be better. But still.

 

We have had good success in removing the coating prior to it getting sticky if you wanna send me an email I can go over some options with you.

 

Thanks everyone. Appreciate all the suggestions.

 

You know something that will work 100% no matter what?

Greased lightning .

Nothing else to be said. Works for sticky and non sticky stuff removes everything down to bare plastic.

 

It does absolutely nothing to new coatings that have not begun to fail.

 

Listen to this man's advice - he obviously knows from experience....

 

Sadly no. Been there. Tried that. Heat 'em up and then go after them carefully. Or send them to Dave or Sticky No More.

 

I second this, if the part has not gone stick GL just gets it wet.

I tried to strip a brand new ash tray (plastic lid not the metal one) straight out of the yellow box, GL didn't do anything to it even after soaking for a week.

 

Dave is right ... I've tried GL before ... does nothing.

 

Spent maybe 5-10mins to do my middle vents last night. Needed to work off dinner. Goo gone first then cheap cologne (saw this in one of the posts). Terry cloth is a must to remove black crud. Color of plastic seemed lighter so used interior detailer to add back shine finish. Took car out for a drive today and everything looks and feels good. Drove my bright Red Rosso 355 partially on highways and around local roads on Christmas Day. Best way to celebrate this special day. Ho Ho Ho!!

 

Fill up a soup pot with water. Bring it to a boil. Put a pasta strainer on top just as you would steam veggies. Put your part inside and out a lid on it. This will mimick prolonged hot interior temp of a vehicle. After 30 minutes or so, remove one by one to make sure the rest stay warm and use your magic solution whatever that may be to wipe it off. I use the .99 awesome or the green stuff

Hope this helps




QUOTE=hjp;145110414]I recently bought a replacement window switch holder plate for the passenger side of my 355. It has the original OEM coating but its not yet sticky. Its still pristine but no telling how long it will stay this way before it too turns sticky. I am tempted to take my chances, leave it alone and just put it on the door but it would be the only part in the entire car that has not been refinished and its only a matter of time before it goes........

So, in the interest of consistency, I would prefer to refinish this part too but I'm told getting the OEM finish off that has not yet gone sticky is very difficult. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did you get the coating off? Is it as difficult as I have been led to believe? Does it all come off evenly or what?

Help please.[/QUOTE]

 

I e used brake fluid, worked fine with a little scrubbing.
But for anyone unsure, leave it to Dave, he knows what he's doing and a worthwhile refinish!