F1 transmission question

No, No and drive it like a manual.....
I.e for normal set off. Touch the throttle and the clutch will start to engage, as the car moves forward the clutch will fully engage, then increase the revs.

My car will move at little over idle. If you have rev it hard to get it to pull away something is awry....
I've never heard it beep and never smelt clutch.



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Never had this type of issue before I converted my F1 back to gated.

I never used the Auto mode before to minimize the clutch wear.

Is there any error in the F1 display? Does it say slowdown? Did the dealership ran an SD2 or SD3 reader to verify any stored or pending codes?

I forgot about clutch smell when my 360 is an F1 so I can't help much there, but on a regular 3 pedal car (Ferrari or not) the clutch starts to smell when you ride the clutch too much or if it's sticking.

Maybe the clutch has 17% usage on yours but if there's internal leak (not to scare you) or damage it will cause it to stick when things heat up and in return, clutch scent. Maybe if your TCU has adjustable parameters it may need some tweaking also.

 

Many many threads about how to drive F1 - basically ensure you engage clutch fully - it takes time to get used to - there's a good video on Youtube (and often posted here) from a dealer in Florida (as I recall) on how to drive F1

 

+1

From a stop make sure to feather the throttle for a short moment until you feel the clutch friction point before stepping deeper on the throttle.

F1 is a stick shift at heart with additional actuators on top only; therefore clutch friction point is important even in Auto mode.

Lots of threads regarding this. I recommend you to search for them and learn more about what other F1 owners share. Really a lot of threads like this already.

 

It is the clutch overheat alarm. Around town and in stop and go traffic it is not terribly uncommon. It can be mostly avoided by technique and if you have one of the correct software versions it might be possible to make an adjustment to make it better.

 

The car should start to creep forward as soon as you gently apply a bit of throttle. Once rolling on constant throttle the clutch will fully engage. This should be within a couple of car lengths.

If you have to rev it hard to get the clutch come in with lots of slip then it can be set-up problem or the early software not being optimal. The 2000 cars had the original TCU software. Do you know if it has been updated?

Another thing you could try would be a PIS auto-set if it is an early TCU.

Coolant temp needs to be between 30 and 70 DGC ( I use a OBB II data reader to read the temp and it rises quickly) Air con in the STOP position.

Key off. Turn on with for check OK then start car, run for 10 seconds then turn off, wait for 10 seconds.
Repeat 2 further times. I normally carried on if the temp was below 70 for 4 or 5 repeats.

This worked for my 2000 car but I believe it is a bit hit and miss.

 

You'll be surprised how much involved F1 is. It's not our normal "automatic". Clutch friction point is very important prior to stepping on the gas deeper. It was an eye opener to me when my car was an F1.

Post #6 as well on the beeping and smell. There might be no issue, it's simply needs F1 driving technique improvement. Believe me, your'd rather hear a technique issue than an actual mechanical issue.

Driving technique is no cost to fix. Lots of F1 driving how-to-drive threads in the past to learn from.

PS. Per Ferrari manual, don't depress the gas when it's up-shifting from 1st. Just keep your foot on the pedal.

 

The colder the better.

 

Sounds like to me you need the PIS set by the dealer. And as Mike said as soon as you touch the gas pedal you should feel the clutch start to engage. If you don't feel that little bit of engagement when just touching the gas id get it reset by the dealer

 

That is if the TCU is the version with PIS adjustments.

If not, I have my Stradale TCU that will be posted for sale. Night and day difference from old TCU. Crisper shifting and less clutch wear. Not to mention, you can resell compared to simply flashing an old TCU.

 

Had my F1 for 12 years and 22k miles. It can be a little jerky at times and takes some getting used to. It is not the same as the DCT/DSG used in later models. I have not had any transmission related expense.
One of the nice things about F1 is they can check the clutch wear without cracking the gearbox off the engine. If they say it is only 15% worn it should be good for a while.

 

This has happened to me several times but I think it has to do more with temperature and movement, especially in traffic or idling at a stop. An immediate cure was to step on the brake, both paddles for neutral and then back to first and do a proper take off. The more you use ASR off and sport, the better for your clutch. Also, do not down shift unless you really need it or are moving enough to enjoy real sporty driving. Use neutral to come to a full stop. This will help save your clutch. I have the challenge Stradale TCU and downshifts are incredible, but you need a happy clutch to make it work. I swapped my exhaust ecus and now my front bank 2 O2 sensor and I'm sure all the city cruising is causing some heat stress not otherwise visible on the temp gauge. I'm thinking about extra fans for the engine bay or cover, especially since it's a spider. Maybe delete the exhaust grills to start?

 

PIS sensor doesn't enable any manual PIS adjustments, PIS can only be configured through a capable TCU like Challenge Stradale TCU. TCU stands for Transmission Control Unit. It's the mainbrain for the F1 system. It controls the gear shifting and clutch operation.

For a MY2000 360 the TCU that's installed don't have PIS adjustments unless the previous owner bought a newer TCU and flashed it (cheaper but you won't get your money back in case you decide to sell it) or a Stradale TCU (better investment since it can be sold for almost same if originally bought used).

Check your PM.

 

I thought CS TCU and newer TCU (2002+) were the same.



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No the latest 360 and the CS TCU's are different part numbers.


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Yes, because the CS has a push button start so the system has different programming to accommodate that and a few other minor system differences. The last standard TCU was released AFTER the CS TCU was released. Both use the same hardware. The late TCU does rev matching just like the CS, despite what some here claim. While I have no proof, I have never tried to decompile the two versions, I suspect that they are virtual clones with accommodations for the minor system differences.

 

I would like to see if the late tcus are the same as the cs tcus... in software. I figured that the software was proprietary but at that point it might not be all that different. Exhaust valves are vacuum/load controlled without computer input right?

 

See Fchat posting for the Stradale TCU and complete Stradale TCU assembly. I just posted today.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/ferrari-parts-collectibles/541537-combo-challenge-stradale-tcu-stradale-paddle-set.html#post145132537

 

Sorry, the TCU is pending sale already. This is sought after part and hard to find for sale; hence the quick sale.

I still have the stradale paddle assembly available if you like. It's sold before by ExoticAutoRecycling for $1,500 used. Offers welcome.

Cheers!