355F1 Gearchange Problem

I hate to say it sounds exactly the same. But before I scare you with potentially needing a new pump assembly, my 612 did the same thing, but in its case Ferrari had to do something to "recalibrate/resync" the f1 shift points.... Or something weird like that. Never had the problem again out of the 612, but this car.... It was definitely a failing pump assembly, as it only happened in stop n go traffic. As long as it was moving there was never an issue.

 

A re-synch will help any system. In an F1 car, the last thing you want to do is shut the car off while it is moving. It throws the sensors off and will cause gear selection issues.

With the car parked and the key off do the following:

1. Place foot on brake and hold it.
2. Turn key to position II but do not start car...wait 10 seconds
3. With foot on brake, turn key off...wait 10 seconds
4. With foot still on brake, start the car.
5. Sensors should now be reset.

I have a 360 pump on my car that started acting up as described as "heat soak". I just ordered the electric motor and swapped it out in my garage. No issues.

I took the old motor apart and the springs for the brushes were broken. I bought some $2 springs and replaced them and it appears fine now. All of this for a different thread

 

Good news. I hope this is all that is wrong. For me, 15-20 minutes wasn't a long enough drive to become heat soaked. And again, the pump would never become heat soaked unless the car was mostly at idle with no movement.

To test further, I would go for a 30 minute, spirited drive. Then come back home and perform stop and go around your neighborhood (if your neighborhood is conducive to do so)... if not back and forth in your driveway for another 15 minutes or so.

Then at that, if you're having really cold weather, the pump may not become heat soaked regardless. My issues were only when ambient temperatures were in the 50's and up, but by the looks of your profile, I don't think cold weather will affect your testing

 

We are waaay off topic.

It could very well be the electric motor as well as the re-synch. If it is $500 replaces it. The actual pump assy most likely will not need replacement.

I'll get to a 360 F1 motor thread in a bit.

 

We are . Stemmed from the fact that the OP turned out to be a car I owned... then I listed what was wrong with it which tied to the discussion about the sale price.

Now.... About the pump... IF it ends up being a failing pump Motor, the Motor isn't available to replace that I know of. It would be cheaper to convert to a 360 pump assembly.

 

Converting to a 360 pump set-up is a bit like fixing headers and valve guides. It will need to be done.

There are several options on how to do it. I suspect the most publicly "approved" way is through the Hill conversion kit supplied by Ricambi.

My car had one of the very first 360 pump conversions ever done and it worked, but was plumbed poorly. During the major I pulled it all apart and re-did it with that kit.

The beauty of the 360 pump is it is external to the solenoid system. It is also a two piece unit so if the electric motor fails (heat soak - brush springs cracked) you can remove the electric motor from the installed pump and add a new one without compromising the hydraulic side of the system.

 

I hope for the latter as well

 

Whoa. You got something else going on there. Throw out bearing perhaps? Does that trigger a CEL? I don't think it does.

Sorry dude.

 

Something else is also wrong if you're throwing a CEL. Not even a bad F1 sensor will throw a cell (and my F355... the one featured in this Barrett Jackson video suffered a bad sensor as well). You should only get he flashing transmission light. I swear your symptoms are the same as mine when the pump was failing. But just in case....

My F1 sensor failed once because the thrust-bearing seal was leaking fluid and fouling the sensor. Check the transmission around the clutch inspection plate to see if it is wet. Remove the plate if you have to and see if it is wet with fluid in there. If so, the thrust bearing seal is probably gone and you'll need a new thrust bearing and possible a new F1 sensor.

 

Yep. And the Hill unit is what I used. Much better part than OEM.

But check the clutch inspection plate to see if it's wet with fluid first, though I suspect that your technician would certainly have checked this already.

 

So the fluid was brake fluid mate? If it was,the reservoir would be low..

 

The manual cars share the same brake fluid and reservoir for clutch and brakes. On the F1, a separate reservior and fluid is used (not shared by brakes)

 

In any case the reservoir would be low or empty.... I have a feeling this is not the problem. something is leaking sure,but the..... sounds like a bucket of bolts quote... the tech would have said the release bearing has failed, rather than just being covered in fluid..

 

Frontline and Mike Moore...now there's a blast from the past. Now life now sadly imitates art.

 

Mate i hope this is a leaking release bearing.. Check your pump as a failed accumulator will cause the pump to run to provide the pressure to change gears. The pumps job is simply to keep the accum full. failed acccumulator will finish the pump in short order..