Split Gear Linkage Gaiter - easy job?

I'm close to completing my steering rack & suspension refurbishment (I only started in October so it's going well...)

Whilst cleaning up the underside of the car prior to sticking all the new bits on, I gave the gaiter, that sits on the gearbox linkage by the engine sump, a wipe and it more or less disintegrated - my finger created a large hole.

I can get a new gaiter easily enough but what does swapping it over entail?
I really don't need another job to do... I want to drive the car in 2016
If it's a p.i.t.a. could I simply rotate it around so that the tear is at the top as a stop gap?
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Andy,

I once had the shift rod removed, when I replaced that gaiter, because I did it together with replacement of the O-Rings and the shift rod bushing.
But looking at my picture it might work forcing the new gaiter onto its seat across the bushing boss. Though that frame support doesn't help making things easier.

You can leave the old, torn one and try to do this and if it works, you can remove the old one completely.
I would not do the 'big job' I have describe above, only because of this gaiter.

Best Regards
Martin
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I am now in a position to (hopefully) replace this torn Gear Linkage Gaiter/Boot...
I guess I am going to attempt to do what Martin kindly suggested and push the new rubber gaiter over the top of the joint. Unless there are any other suggestions?

The rubber bushing is in tatters, so I will need to replace it, the part is available from Superformance (Gearshift Linkage Silent Block Bush).
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Hi Andy,

I suggested to try it, if there's nothing else to do. But now that you also have to replace the silent block, I would perform the 'big job'. Say, removing the whole rod. Good occasion to replace the two O-rings in the housings as well.
Replacement of the silent block and gaiter with everything in place is a major PITA. The big job is easy, just more time consuming. But hey, it's winter And as additional parts you just need two gaskets for engine sump and gearbox cover and fresh oil. Since you have a drysump car even taking off the covers is easy. Just pay attention to the balls and springs when taking off the gearbox cover.

BTW. I thought my silent block was shot. But yours outclasses it

Best Regards
Martin

 

Thanks Martin. Yes, I was amazed at the state of the silent block bush.
My suspension bushings and even the much derided steering rack bush on my car were in excellent condition when I replaced them - so I wasn't expecting this.

So this means
1. Draining the gearbox oil (a task that I am not unfamiliar with)
2. Removing the gearbox pan/cover (I had read somewhere about things falling out at this point - i.e. springs & balls)
3. And then...

I think the Birdman sight has something on the next bit, I'll read up and report back with any questions... my completion date has now been pushed back another couple of months!

 

Also removing the engine sump for which you'll need to remove the dipstick tube (a possible major PITA).

I think Robworx did a tutorial about how to get the shift shaft out (see the stickies) - it would be basically the same on the 308 I think (though I am sure someone will chime in if its not).

 

Dry Sump = No Dipstick!
Surely this has knocked a month off the job...

I read Robworkz #2 tutorial and I really don't need this. I already have half the engine bay strewn around the garage floor (exhaust box, manifolds, starter motor, alternator, fuel tanks, fuel pump, fuel filter, heat shields, drive shafts in pieces, transfer casing cover, handbrake mechanism, cambelt covers, rear wheel arch liners etc. FFS)

To top it all off, Mrs 308GTB has announced in the last 24 hours she want the bedroom completely ripped out and wardrobes built and fitted. Happy New Year.

 

You'll be begining the new year by playing the carpenter for a change, then, Andy...

Rgds

 

Now where's that tired old photo of the wooden Ferrari gone...

 

That won't do: a wardrobe to build, have you said...

Rgds

 

it`s called "making amends"

I know what that means but I didn`t have to build wardrobes, though ...

power shopping of shoes and handbags/purses - of the same value - were accepted



.

 

I can only justify spending money on the car by offsetting it against the money saved by not employing people to maintain the house, fix washing machines etc. My wife also hates having tradesmen in the house. Atop of that, when I see the work they do, I always believe I could have done it better... so it kind of works all round, I just need an extra few hours in everyday!

 

This evening I decided to have a fairly circumspect look at what is involved in removing this gear linkage shaft from the gearbox.

I drained the gearbox oil and then gingerly removed the cover. 3 springs and 2 ball bearings and 1 solid cylindrical item were discovered (see photo). As can be seen, I am already 1 ball bearing missing - I am 99.9% certain that this had been lost sometime over the last 35 years & not during this evenings activities. (In any case Superformance supply replacements for £0.80 +VAT and this will be added to my order)

Since my total experience of working on cars has been documented on this very forum, looking at the gearbox - I feel totally out of my depth! However, my immediate thoughts are (and I am looking for confirmation or suggestions here):
1. Since I will need to slide the shaft out via the engine sump, I will need to drain the engine oil.
2. To slide the shaft out, the engine will need to be raised slightly in its mounts otherwise it will not go over the shaft coming from the front of the car?
3. What do I need to undo in the gearbox to release the shaft? Is there a circlip or something that secures it to the selectors/forks or whatever...
4. Springs and Ball Bearings, presumably the Ball Bearings sit atop of the Springs when the cover is replaced. Fine. But what is the point of them?
5. I will obviously buy a new gasket. Before fitting, my understanding is that the surfaces should be cleaned up to get rid of the old gasket and oil etc. Are any other sealants applied?

The only good news is that tomorrow morning I am picking up my refurbished Starter Motor and Alternator. I fully expect them to look brand new - I'll post up pictures in due course.
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Hi Andy,

1. Yes.
2. Better to remove the center console inside the car and remove the long shaft.
3. The shift rod is connected to the selector fork with a bolt you have to undo and remove completely.
4. those springs and balls are for secure latching of the gears. I'm almost sure, your third ball is present, but is sticking in the hole. Gear oil is sticky, especially when cold. I needed a small magnet to remove one. Pay attention. The missing ball may fall out over night when you are sleeping and then it's really missing. If it would have been missing in the past, you would have noticed problems with the gears latching.
Looking at your picture I even believe seeing a ball coming out of the middle hole (?)
5. I treat all gaskets with a thin smear of a non hardening sealant. This is what I use all the time:

http://www.elring.de/fileadmin/Dateiablage_DE/2Service/Datenblaetter/Technische_Dichtmassen/CurilT/TD_Curil_T_EN_01.pdf



Best Regards
Martin

 

For this part the gearbox is a piece of cake. My first ever looked just like that.

No, my engine did NOT need its mounts loosened.

Remove the 'fork' (you appear to be centered in 1st/Reverse on the lever?) visable in your pic and the shaft slips right out toward the front of the car (replace BOTH Silent Blocks).

Getting the Shift Shaft back together and snugged properly with the shift lever is the hardedt part of this process.

Suggestion: for the shift rod sump seals, got with the 'X' Ring AND the smaller O-Ring. The seals will not move in their respective groves; however, shifting will be noticeably harder.

This will all make sense as you play with it.

 

Thanks very much Martin.
I did try and peer up the holes for the missing ball bearing but gave up. I have a large drip tray underneath the gearbox overnight so this will catch the stray ball bearing should it fall out! The requirement of these to exert pressure makes good sense and explains the various cylindrical objects, which would raise the spring higher (and presumably could be swapped around for longer/shorter items to change the pressure exerted). Now I understand their purpose. this make life much easier.

Removing the centre console... I can understand why. But this is turning into a monster. Don't forget I've got a bedroom to redecorate

 

Thanks Mark, IIRC the gear lever was in 3rd as this gave me more play to separate the shaft. Your suggestion re sump seals, if I understand correctly they are attached to the shaft itself? So when I pull the shaft they will be very evident? I may post up the parts diagram on the Superformance website, so that it is clear what seals to order. But I will press on with removing the shaft first.

 

Andy,
not sure, whether you read my corrected post regarding the picture of your gearbox. What's that I see coming out of the middle hole? A ball? A drop of gear oil?

Link to my sealant also failed. Have corrected it too.

And no. The seals Mark is referring to sit inside the housing bores. One between engine and transmission sump and one where the rod exits the engine. If the first I mentioned, is faulty, engine and transmission oil mix. If the latter is faulty, the engine leaks engine oil.
If you want to replace both, you also have to remove the engine sump cover. Easy on our drysump cars.

Best
Martin

 

Tip:

Dont do what I did and put the shift shaft back in and forget to put the gaiter onto it first! Luckily the gaiter does just about stretch over the external joint.

The way I look at these things regards home DIY is the opposite way: Think of the money you have saved by doing this job yourself and use that money instead to pay a decorator!

 

I know this is going a little off the remit of this thread but...

Once again the Industrial Estate in Basildon, Essex comes up trumps again. The home of Gaz Shocks, specialist welders and garages dedicated to suspension geometry also has a very good Alternator and Starter Motor specialist (Universal - Specialist in Rotating Electrics :: Universal Starters and Alternators)

I took in my filthy 35 year old kit and this is what I got back!
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Hi Andy,

looks great,and I'm happy for you, that you have a Bosch starter and not that bulky Fiat starter like me. Had to purchase a Bosch starter back then when mine failed due to lack of parts for a rebuild.
May I ask what you paid for each rebuild?

Best
Martin

 

Starter £148 + VAT = £177.60
Alternator £125 + VAT = £150.00

 

3rd ball bearing found - exactly per the photo... 😀

 

Congrats!
Weekend rescued!

Best
Martin

 

Rebuilt parts look great and not a bad price either.