Did a hydro test (Just as well, water Outlet from LH Cyl Head had a hairline crack, where water was leaking. This needed welding. Not sure how this happened, maybe it was overtightened. To take this out when engine is in the car would have been very difficult. The Fuel Injection system, (throttle bodies) is in the way, so need to be taken off to get to the water outlet. Made a very simple pressure tester with instructions I found on the net. Photo attached. One end attaches to the heater pipe (next to the water pump inlet hose), , other end I use a bicycle pump to pump air until 10 -15 PSI after blocking the water inlet and outlet pipes. Water inlet and outlet need to be blocked water tight, I used spice jars which are exact size, 40 ml- (no jokes please!), then pumped air in at 15PSI to see if it pressure is held. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finally the engine is complete and ready to go in the car, after the Engine bay was painted (trying to match the powder coated subframe). Some photos Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Problems, Problems (i) Car started ok, noticed fuel leak at FD. Tried to tighten, the banjo bolt snapped on top of FD . Hmmm.. not looking to good, fortunately the thread on FD didnt get stripped, otherwise I would be up for lots of money and lots of time to fix. Found a Banjo bolt locally, but wasnt original, screwed in ok, smaller head, only two smaller holes for petrol to go through, and head was different size. I took original one from Cold Start injector and put it on top of FD where the bolt broke, and used the non original one in the Cold Start injector (which I will replace when the original one arrives.). Ive ordered the correct Banjo bolt. (Phil from Forza is helping me out. ) This fixed the fuel leak. I also ordered new HT leads. The car started ok and let it run until hot enough for the fans to come on. Temp gauge showed 250 degrees when ignition turned on. found one of the fuel injection lines was earthing on the Temp sender. (ii) Noticed the fans didnt go on when temperature was reached. Traced it back to earth wire which wasnt making contact. (Forgot to tighten it when I installed the air duct for the alternator.) (iii) Another problem noticed the Fuel Accumulator was leaking, so Ive ordered one.. (Part number on mine is 0438 170 00 (I think last digit is missing for some reason ). Found out the correct number from Peter (WINTECH) thanks Pete! ( Bosch Part number 0438 170 004) (iv) Need to fix a couple of oil leaks at Oil Filter (Oil pressure sender was loose , another one I forgot to tighten, after tightening, leak was still there, now the new Oil Filter has a small leak. Maybe one of those suspect oil filters. (v) Oil hose from Oil Tank to Oil Cooler is also leaking a little oil. (vi) Oil is also leaking from LH distributor oil seal. (vii) The clutch needs a bit of adjustment (first gear really hard to go in. (Ive bled the clutch many times, didnt improve. The Clutch Shims we calculated may be too small, after Pressure plate and inter plate were ground, and Clutch plate religned. I will try and add half ML shim without taking off the bell housing. (viii) One last problem at first start up, lots of blue smoke out of RH bank. Kept on going for some time, Seems to have settled. (Maybe some oil got into the cylinders when we were rotating the engine for the diff install? ) What I would differently next time . Photos, lots of photos, every step of the way.
Next time, I will take lots of photos before any dismantling, doesn't matter how small the job, it may be months before assembly, and, unless you have photographic memory, you will forget how to assemble. There are lots of threads in this forum where you can find the information if you are not sure. It is a little easier if you have photos. I can report that the upgraded Diff seems ok...no noises, whines or clunks, and I can drive with ease and don't have the worry anymore that the Diff may explode.
Not problems.... just some issues to remedy. Not at all surprising. These paint markers really help me keep track of things. Once the item is fully torqued, it gets a witness mark. The smoke is highly likely to be a non-issue. No worries! Life Is Good! vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fred, your filter is an 02, not an 00 (its white with blue) not the other way round! When i took my filter off, it was so tight I badly damaged the outer Dia. getting it off. In an ideal sealing ring world, the filter should screw on and hand tight, and then about 1/2 turn with a filter wrench. It has got me stuffed why the need to tighten these damned UFI canisters so tight! I have the same problem as you, only mine is an 00 I picked up off ebay longtime back...3 attempts to stop the drips so far as you know. Regarding the clutch, the calcs were the same as I used on mine and it has full travel and take up. Is yr pedal getting full travel as per spec? it can be adjusted with the pedal box in place but it has to have the correct length of travel, that is why the shims get adjusted; for full disengage with the spec travel. Pete K Perth WA
Vincenzo...good to hear....Vincenzo, I was thinking I'm the only one that forgets to tighten all bolts / nuts....) . Good idea with the witness markers..Will use something like this next time.... the smoke is gradually going away.....Wasn't sure if we did something wrong. There was a lot of smoke at first.
Pete, Not too worried about the Oil filter yet. It may still be leaking from the Oil pressure sender. I'll take the oil filter off to get to the oil pressure sender easier, then will re-install the oil filter , hopefully this will fix the problem. The clutch seems to have full pedal, Just that it tries to engage a lot earI haven't touched it, was working fine. So I thought that my measurements for the shims maybe incorrect. I don't know how much was taken off when re-surfacing PP and, Int. Plate, but I know that 1.5 ml was added when Clutch plate was religned, cos I measured these before and after. The shims were 1.6 ml before. Now, according to calculations we worked out they need to be 1.2ml. This doesn't sound right. I don't believe any more than 0.5ml was taken off during resurfacing, so to get it to work like before, I would add to the Shims, not take away.
If people are paranoid about oil filter unscrewing. Take a big hose clamp and put it around the oil filter, run a safety wire from the clamp to put the filter in tighten position. I did that on race cars for years.
Normally do not care oil filter, but for some odd reason, in my BB filters do get loose, not leaking, but end up more loose then I left them, so solution was this; hand tight and safety wire. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think the message was mis-interpreted. Not sure if The Oil filter is leaking. The Oil temp sender was loose and oil was leaking from there. After it was tightened (very difficult to get a spanner in there), there was some oil leaking which may or may not have come from there. The Oil filter needs to come off so we can get to the Oil sender and inspect it closely, as it is difficult to tighten it with the oil filter in place. Will be doing that next W/E. If the oil leak is not coming from the Oil temp sender, then the Oil Filter may be the problem. (not because it's not tight).
to reach this sensor I built a special tool because it is very hard to get there. but even with this tool I have to remove the filter still in thailand, so sorry, no picture form this tool, but easy to make: just take a normal open end wrench, heat it so that the open end you can make a 90° angel. so I did and it works fine
those are too small vincenzo, also you can not put them on the sensor because the hex from the sensor is larger than the open end ( as I see it on the picture? ). have a look at the open end, smaller than the inside, so not for use if I remember right the size is 22 or 24 mm, but not sure
Hill Engineering makes this for the UFI. I have not yet used it, but it seems to fit the filter very well. Looks great too A cheaper alternative (only works 'fair') is a three fingered gripper... see next post. It damages the can upon a high torque removal, but seems 'ok' for the lower torque installation. Either will allow for an accurate filter torque, which I believe is 17ft-lbf (please double check though). If the torque is right, these filter issues should be minimal, if not entirely eliminated. Life Is Good! vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
The three finger gripper. High breakloose torques will damage the can. It works 'ok'. Life IS Good, vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
Romano, Vincenzo, Thanks...(I love this forum. I'm in Aussie land down under, I ask for advice , then I go to sleep, and in the morning I find I have multiple solutions.)
rather than start a new thread, I thought I would reopen this one and add to it. The Front end needed some work as it was full of grime after 30 years. Took it all apart, powder coated the springs, control arms, Sway bar. Also yellow zinc plated all the nuts and bolts and painted the Koni Shocks. Fuel pumps replaced and hoses replaced with silicon ones. here are some before and after photos. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took the car to get a wheel alignment (both rear and front) after the front end work. On the way there the car only ran on one bank. Drove the car home after wheel alignment and found out that the RHS had no spark, ignition module wasn't working. Bought an ignition module locally (off a Jaguar 1990 XJS ) and the car now runs on both banks. There was no need to change the coil.
