What is the Amp draw on the AC condenser fan
Might be as high as 8. It has a 20 amp fuse but it is not the only component supported by that fuse. It has a 1.5 mm wire so the 4 amp guess is probably low. Fuel pumps only pull 8 and I have a hard time thinking it takes more for the fan.
I am replacing mine with a 5 blade that pulls a lot more air so the AC will be a lot cooler in trafic,it blows real cold at high speed but in trafic it warms up a lot.the new Fan draws 10amps So I want to make sure.
Typically the fuse rating is double the circuit draw. The danger is the wiring capacity. In this case it is 1.5mm so it should be fine.
Ford Taurus year 2000 and up $85.00 on eBay there is lots of them 10" pull Fan very easy mod On the mounting holes.VERY STRONG air.
This is from my 1987 328. I replaced mine with a SPAL 30100435 10" Curved Blade Puller Fan from Amazon. A side by side comparison seems give the advantage to the 10 blade (802 CFM). Easy fit and low current draw. *You need to rotate the mounted fan picture clockwise* Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is this an exchange only or do you have to make any electrical changes.is the condenser fan a variable sped fan ?
Single speed. Shouldn't need any electrical changes. It will be interesting if it makes a difference.
I believe you can but I have not tried this. Once the Key is in ON position and the A/C fan is also ON, this fan should be on. I don't know why you'd want to do that but I can test and confirm? Craig
This is an exchange only with a slight "BUT." I should have called this out in my previous post. The wiring is slightly different. In the original design there is part number "61047900 - Bimetal thermal contact (which is nothing more than a temperature activated switch I think) that is conveniently connected between the fan and ground IIRC. I put mine on a wire brush and you can see what was stamped on it. With my new design, you need to hard wire all this together. I strongly recommend taking pictures of everything before you tear it apart. It seems basic but can be confusing once all the parts are on the floor. Also, you need (4) of these - Spal 30130011 Fan Mounting Bracket which I got from Amazon or Summit Racing. Craig Image Unavailable, Please Login
I can't tell you if it made a difference, the A/C never worked when I bought the car. I can tell you it's much more comfortable inside the cabin now. As others have indicated, I don't think this compressor / compressor fan issue, it's a air movement in the cabin issue. I've often thought if I could come up with some way to craft a couple of 90 degree elbows to take the air from the dash and blow it on you, it would be far my comfortable.
No, I kept it. I made the assumption it was operating correctly and reused the one I took off. They were nowhere to be found when I did this job (last March). Now it looks like some of the usual places have them.
Yes I saw the Temp switch on the bottom AC line clamped on,the Red wire goes in and comes back to the Motor,the ground goes direct to the motor,I got a new Fan that pulls 1200CFM at 80 watts and 6 1/2 amp $80.00.will post pics when installed,the reason I am doing this I was getting real cold air driving at 100kmh but at a stop light it got a lot warmer,so there must be a connection with air flow,also the radiator did not show much light true when tested so I sprayed them with a cleaner and blow air true fins one by one now I can see all the light,I guess after 30 years there is some build up.the old 4blade motor had a 400 CFM pull so there should be a diff,when I slow down.
R12 or 134? My dad happened to have a 30lb can of r12 so I used that. 1200CFM is even better than the one I used.
Partially. At low RPM the compressor is just not able to keep pressures where they need to be for good cooling, and reduced air flow over the condenser has an effect. With the bigger fan it will help the second part. That is part of the reason I am converting mine to the Sanyo compressor. It is far more efficient, can maintain pressures at lower RPM better, weighs less and takes less HP to do the same job. US never got the Sanyo compressor in the 328 because of crash standards. Due to the location right next to the fuel tank it would have required Ferrari to re crash test the car to make the compressor change and they didn't want to go to the expense.
Rifledriver, I'm particularly interested in hearing your experience with yours after the switch and especially now in Texas (is the humidity as bad in Austin as it is in say Huston)? If it is how different does your car perform there compared to here? How much does the humidity impact these systems. As you know, the temps in Redwood City can be milder than the rest of the South & East Bay so it's not like I'm cooking in it but it's so much better with A/C than before. Craig
