bad azzz boxer part III

Option 1 seems very well thought out. So then the question would be what does the combined two BB openings flow compared to the single M opening. The BB intakes on the rear clam as you point out are supposed to be at an area of high pressure.

One rub against the BB setup is the intakes sit right above the hot exhaust, but I am guessing that this can be insulated. The intake pans as you know are also not very deep.

 

EFI. I converted it. That little 8 makes roughly 375 Real hp. The CIS would've limited cam selection choking it.

 

Testarossa has the air intake right above the muffler as well and the filter box is bolted to the hot engine. The M and TR have them beside the engine in the path of exhaust manifold and engine heat on its way out the rear lid grills and they are not insulated. For space reasons I may need to make the box mount above the drop gear case and make it U shaped to reach up to the twin air intakes. Ill insulate the bottom of the box somehow if this is the path I go. I think it would be a nice looking and very functional setup though.

 

Decided im going to use a pair of factory ducts mounted to the clamshell that seal to the stock carb'd air filter housings. Ill make 2 boxes to house the conical filters that mate to the factory ducts when the clam is closed. This is the best solution because its effective and keeping with the ferrari theme where I can.
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I took the lines off and measured the ID of the lines and check valve and im getting 1/4" which translates to a -4AN line.
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I cut the muffler inlet pipes off and Im going to use mandrel bent 3" pipes then use a conical transition to go from the 2" header outlets up to 3" which is how the muffler came. With the current hangers and the slip joint collectors that pairs the headers together the muffler assembly will slide straight off without drama during servicing.

Because the 3" pipes enter the muffler at the top (from the turbo application) they will need to come up over the outlets and down then reduce diameter and turn to join to the collectors. The pipes are more than big enough and being mandrel bent will flow well.

I've also settled on a single ECU to manage the M engine which simplifies installation and the price is very reasonable.
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Is this motor sitting lower than a regular BBI motor?

 

Yes it is, thats why I had to make up new mounts

 

So between the lighter crank mass and lower engine height handing should be vastly improved especialy towards the limit.

Having been near that limit more than once(many years ago in my immature youth) what happens is if you can keep feeding in power and can redice soem seerign lock the car will crab out of a bend, very satifying but you have to know the bend and get the entry speed/exit just right. However if you even attempt to feather it keels like a big hand comes and lifts the rear of the car up and out towards the bend, almost as tough there is a sky hook lifting the rear up over the axle line.

Easy to explain as the BB crank was said to sit above the rear pivot point ie above the axle line. Modern rubber cures this to the extent that the grip is so prodigious that the lifting from the rear effect does not result in oversteer, and to the extent it does it easily catchable and correctable.

I remember reading that Ferrai had partialy adressed this Bb tendancy in the Tr with a wider rear track and lowering the motor.

So imagine a shorter (than a Tr) wheelbase BB, with wider modern rubber in the rea, a lowered engine and the lighter M crank. Methinks handling will be vastly improved, better turn in, easier at the limit better all around. More or less what ferrari would have done had they kept developing the BB as porche did with the 911.

Whats the difference in alignment specs between a Testarossa, Tr and M?

What you are building now is the Ferrari BB version of a singer porche.

 

The engine is an inch and a quarter lower than a stock boxer engine based on the depth of the oil pan using the frame as a reference.

 

Plus you live right up on THE ideal boxer roads.

 

New mounts underway. Compare to the original mount showing some of the height difference, the rest being in the puck thickness Im using as an isolator. Ill finish drilling and welding then have them powder coated.
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Clearanced the front mounts for the oil returns and tacked the mount brackets together. Ill finish the main mount bolt holes and finish welding them up.
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Rear clam ready for polishing then satin black.
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Newly anodized drip rail mouldings against the black is difficult to distinguish but its correct. They were painted red then black over the red so I stripped them and had them refinished. These mouldings are not available anymore.

The moulding below the anodized one is painted as it was from the factory. New glass U-channels and fresh paint makes everything look tidy.
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New and old slats stripped make up the grill, ready for anodizing once I put it together.
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Looks great

As a suggestion, I'd add radii on the corners to keep the blood off them

 

Thanks I did that yesterday before dropping them off for powder coating

 

Mounts turned out great with the powder coating
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looks like made by newman

 

Hope that doesn't mean it looks like crap lol

 

Beautiful work!

 

Love these threads by Newman. It is so informative and exciting to see this car transforming before our eyes. I am quickly becoming a big fan of the boxer. Thank you for sharing this process.

 

Very special cars. Come drive mine (seriously) and you'll need one.