Colnagos (and other italian bikes) should be full Campagnolo. Just sayin' Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Since you asked... My priors were a Felt F1 and a Cipollini. My immediate reaction was that the frame felt planted or heavy. Sprinting and descending in particular the thing feels so firm and secure...no twitchiness like the Cipo (that frame was meth'd out...ha). This must be what people call stiff...? Climbs well--great all around bike (the feedback from the road feels like a GT Porsche; not overly harsh but aggressively set up). This particular frame is perhaps a touch big for me--so a slightly more relaxed geometry. For buyers, notice how straight that top tube is... All utterly subjective, of course. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not big on specialized so ditched the snub saddle--extended test on this setup. The argon 18 team frames look special--really classic yet aggressive lines. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Colnago C-60 build program is pretty good..no worries about fit, I would check into it before ordering off the shelf if you want a perfect fit...a few bucks extra and you have a frame that fits you perfect...just my 2c..
Nice to have a bicycles corner in F-Chat! Took the Old Lady for a spin after the snow days Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, snow tends to do a real job on the running gears. I hate cleaning winter muck. Could that be a replacement front fork on a DOGMA FP? What brakes are those?
This Dogma AK61 Magnesium frame is a kind of test mule. LOOK HSC4 fork works perfectly, brakes are Saccon NOS items from a small shop. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Current set-up is with earl 8 speed Dura-Ace hubs on Mavic GP4 rims and original Vittoria Corsa CX Pro tubular tires. Truly vintage stuff but still functional and enjoyable. Bottom bracket required a strong lifting though Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had CLX-60's and hated them. They were a "good deal" from a friend of mine who I bought from. I got them last spring and kept 'em for about 4 weeks before selling on CL. Flexy as crap, PITA braking issues (bad braking, pad changes, etc), made that stupid wooshing noise at speed, and (although expected) terrifying on any kind of descent. Were they fast? In my region of the country and for the riding I do, they weren't anything special. I'm not adverse to carbon, but certainly won't go anywhere near 60mm again. In summary, they might be great wheels but they're not great for me
I haven't noticed the small Saccon brand in my area but they look well-made, probably decent stoppers. The compact FSA Gossamer (?) crankset must have needed conversion cups for the Dogma's ITA BB but what is that funky "cosmetic" pattern around the BB tubes? The LOOK forks are pretty straight but you also have a comfortable wheel setup with low-flange hubs 3x spokes, fast tires. I have an even older training bike with a Mercier Reynolds 531 frame that is unfortunately way too dated, funky, for me to try and resurrect. Yours look very serviceable!
There are so many CF wheels in the market these days but perhaps this review might provide some useful reading.
Mentioned this Trek Domane in a post above. Probably going to order it the next time I go to the LBS. Have to pay for it in full before they will place the order with Trek so I have to make time to go in. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The picture seems to show an eTap RED setup. Is that the config you're going for, or Di2 ? Either way, looks like a great ride for the upcoming season!
You can tell that in the picture????? Sorry, didn't mean to mislead. Just snagged that picture from google images. I am ordering it with the Shimano 6870 Di2.
If in your ordering process ultegra is priced significantly lower than duraace di2 you aren't purchasing this the right way. Find a shop that will get you in a top end--from end to end--build. Shortly after release the price difference ultegra/da or record/SR is minimal. Best way to get screwed on this is to buy a complete bike. Buy the frame, order the group and get someone to build it.
Yeah I wondered about that. The price difference is almost as much as buying the complete etap new. I'm gonna ask my dealer about this. Thanks.
Anyone know if it's cheaper to get whole eTap group (& then try to sell parts you don't need on ebay or CL) or just order the parts you actually need? I have custom Zinn 200mm cranks & M5 brakes so don't need those. Any real world first year bugs in eTap? Much like first year of a new model car, they tend to find (& fix) bugs for 2nd year along with adding features. Better to wait until 2nd year rolls out?
Question about crank chainring to crank spider bolts. I decided to change the front ring on my new gravel grinder (see thread in this section about that bike). Getting the crank bolts loose was a real chore--it turns out they had green thread locker on them. Coincidentally, I was doing surgery on a bolt wholesaler today, and he said green thread locker is really meant for permanent, not to be disassembled bolts. I got them apart without a torch, but it took way more than the recommended torque value of those SRAM bolts (which is 80-90 inch pounds). I'd imagine the crank came from SRAM like this but I'm not certain. In any case, any suggestions on which thread locker to use when I reassemble it? I was thinking either purple or blue, but I bet many folks don't use any.
If anything, I would try purple. It works very well. Blue is overkill. Several points: Green Loctite is high strength, and is added after assembly*. Whoever did that I am sure had the best intentions, but yeah... heat is not good to add to the spider and chainring. (with respect to using heat to remove Loctite: heat until it smells like fresh Loctite, and then stop immediately.) There are several chainring bolt sets that use Torx, even double Torx, inside and out, and these work great as long as you remember to upgrade your minitool collection. On bikes that get beat on (single speed, cyclo-cross) I use steel chainring bolts. Shimano 105 5700 Double Chainring Bolts > Components > Drivetrain > Chainring Bolts | Jenson USA *some have preinstalled Loctite "patch", but I have never seen one in real life.
