How many 458 Italias with original ecu and exhaust crackles?

I have a database of original files that were read from various cars over the years. So far, I have 11 different calibrations. You can see which one is oldest since the calibration code is largely chronological. All these files were obtained by reading the data right off the EPROM (i.e., opening the ECU case). I'll be adding a 12th file to the data base once i read the data off of Mike's ECU next Monday.

 

The database of files was provided to me by my development team at Alientech. These files were read (using KTAG) by either themselves or from other tuners in their worldwide worldwide.

 

Would the file include the serial number of the Italia it came from to verify the model year?
Does the ecu record the last date of update/ecu re-write to make sure it hasn't been updated?

 

All the files provided to me are 2.2mb .bin files. This is represents the portion of the flashable memory that contains all the mapping info. The other data (immobilizer, vin register, etc,.) will be in the other portion of the file. The only full KTAG reads I have are those I have done personally from a few cars (including mine). But they are all newer calibrations. I have have access to the factory diagnostic tool as well as an AutoEnginuity diagnostic tool and I don't see any logged diagnostic data for most recent sw updates. I see memory bytes that store the number of services and the mileage of the last service. But that doesn't seem to have anything to do with ECU writes.

 

The "correct original calibration parameters" are in the 2.1mb binary files that I have. This is the portion of the complete EPROM data that contains all the actual mapping data (i.e., the stuff that makes the engine work). The rest of the data (outside this mapping block) isn't useful and contains other less interesting things like VIN register and Immobilizer codes. I'm not going to ask Alientech to provide me VIN data so I can publicly disclose it for no reason whatsoever.

 

Because in disclosing the VIN number, I would be providing evidence that this particular car has been opened and tampered with. Without permission by the owner. An owner I don't even know.

 

The first 4 of 6 digits of the serial number would be sufficient to prove its model year. For example, 1946xx.

Further, how are you sure you have an authentic original ecu? The oldest of your batch may still be a 2012 tune.

As a vendor advertising a service I'd expect irrefutable proof of your product. So far you haven't even proven authenticity. Smoke and mirrors?

 

I have posted actual screen shots of the mapping data for more than one calibration. I have explained how the earlier software version (with exhaust burble) differ from the later software versions (without exhaust burble). I am remapping a 2013 car, free of charge, just to demonstrate that this is real. If you see smoke and mirrors, I would be curious to know where exactly.

Attached is a screenshot of my original file database. You can see the creation dates of the files go back as far as Sept 15, 2011. This was when the ECU was opened and read with KTAG. So the production date of the car is going to be well before that. The file I referenced as an old pre-update calibration is the F568_416.ori file. If you open it up and go to address 0x8030A, you will see the actual calibration code (also attached) as 1037515416 which is the same file that maxvonauto referenced in post #41 of this thread as likely being a "good one" based upon the publication date. I have confirmed it as such by comparing it with a new calibration and checking for differences. The obvious differences in the Retard Time for Overrun Fuel Cut-off stood out. For those who know about tuning EFI systems, this is the table that controls combustion during over-run (i.e., burbles). Then I verified that porting these values into my newer calibration did indeed restore burbles. But since my car is a 2010 model, that wasn't enough evidence for some. So I will be doing the same on Mike's 2013 Spider next week.

I have had a very good experience on this forum. I enjoy providing data and insight when I can. Unlike other tuners, I don't monetize IP. Instead, I sell hardware/tools. The tune files themselves are essentially free. This means, unlike most other professional tuners, I will freely disclose actual mapping info (i.e., what I do, how I do it and what the effects are). Info which most tuners will not disclose for obvious reasons. I will refrain from posting this information if you feel that it is incomplete or misleading in any way.

Also, please keep in mind that we do not have a product for sale yet. Nothing is for sale until we prove effectiveness on Mike's 2013 Spider.
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The only true way to identify a particular software is by the software number and version. For example, my 2010 had SW number 1037533200 version .0000. The oldest version in the DIMSPORT database was 1037515416 version .0000. This information is read from the ecu. I assume the lower the number the earlier the release. However, as far as I know, there is no published cross reference between SW number/version and any software modifications that prompted the update. Ferrari is very secretive about that. I'm pretty sure the dealers don't even know what changes are occurring when they update to a newer version. So, which SW numbers are the "good ones"? Frankly, I don't think anyone knows for sure!

 

This is correct. Thank you for explaining. I think DIMSPORT and Alientech share much of the same database. Although I was able to locate an even earlier sw version (shown below).
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To download this data, you have to remove the ECUs from above the rear wheel well liners, slice through the epoxy (with razor blade) which seals the two halves of the ECU case together, open it up and expose the circuit board and then read directly from the EPROM. Then reseal the case with silicone glue and re-install in the car. This, by any reasonable definition, is tampering.

Let me make this clear again, I am NOT restoring newer ECUs to an original 2010 calibration. There are hundreds of tables which have been changes over the years. Most of them are likely to be useful updates/improvements for reasons beyond the scope of my knowledge. I am only editing the tables that will provide me the desired changes I am looking for. In the case of my own personal car, I have adjusted fuel, timing, VVT, desire charge and optimal engine torque tables to improve power output. Decel fuel cut delay and exhaust bypass valve tables to restore burbles. Disabled catalyst monitoring so that I an run test pipes without a CEL. Disabled catalyst warm-up so that the engine doesn't run roughly first thing in the morning. And revised throttle mapping in Race/CST mode so that it's not so ridiculously sensitive. There are more things that I will do in the future. But this car is pretty darn good to begin with so changes for the sake of changes rarely turn out well.

 

Shiv, you no doubt have multiple calibrations. Not disputing that.
You have studied their differences and pinpointed differing tables. Understood.
You have flashed your car (as we all do ) with the older ecu values and it gave you more pops. Sincerely, bravo.

But, is your original calibration a true original ecu as this thread is titled? Not a hypothesis, not a deduction by comparing file names, but a true fact that it's the original ecu.

Can you prove 1) you have a true 2010 calibration, and 2) can rewrite that 2010 calibration on any Italia/Spider?

Simple questions. No word play.

 

I think we have having a problem with terminology here. An ECU (engine control unit) is the physical "box" that reads sensor data, refers to look-up tables for outputs and then sends those outputs to the fuel injector, ignition cools, throttle bodies, etc. There are two ECUs in the 458, one for each engine bank. The Calibration is the software that, among other things, defines the aforementioned look up tables. This calibration can be modified or updated by the dealership or by a tuner. The calibration is loaded to the EPROM in the ECU. So when you ask "is your original calibration a true original ecu as this thread is titled?" I don't quite understand what you are saying.

The ECUs in my 2010 Italia are original. As are likely the ECUs in your car. They have never been replaced. The calibration, however, has been updated over the years by the dealership. I purchased the car last year so I was unable to read the ECU when it was loaded with the original (circa 2011) calibration. So the best I have to work with is my database of calibration files, some of which were read from other 458 ECUs back in 2011. Do I have the absolute earliest calibration version in my database? I do not know. Nor will I ever likely know. For my purposes, having the first version of the calibration is irreverent. The early (not nexessarily earliest) calibration versions that I have looked at have provided me with the info I needed to restore burbles in my otherwise stock car. That is all I have been saying. In my eyes, the best case scenario would be to have the latest and greatest calibration but selectively edited to restore burbles, more power, smoother throttle mapping, etc. This involves editing the look up data in a dozen or so tables. There are hundreds of remaining tables that remain untouched. I AM NOT back-dating the ECUs to an old calibration. Never have and I never will. I hope I have been clear. If not, please let me know.

 

Hey guys, anybody familiar with the rubber to hang the exhaust (something like this) is torn? Dealer told me this is common in 458, price to replace about USD 1,300.

 

All the Software Numbers listed in the various posts have the last 6 digits as the VIN production number. For USA, the most common prefix for a 2010 is of course ZFF67NFAXA0 (the X being the check number and is variable).

 

Hi Shiv,

Thank you for your excellent posts and info. I'm excited about being one of your first customers.

As mentioned previously, I have a purchase of a 458 Italia pending the outcome of your results with the 2013 Spider. I have the car on hold until 2/27, but need to wrap up the purchase by then. Is there any way that you could have the 2013 project wrapped up by then, with video?

Thanks!

 

Mike is dropping off his 2013 Spider to me on Monday (2/27). Depending on shop schedule and my tuning schedule I'm afraid it may take a few days to get everything done (pulling ECUs, reading out original calibration, developing tune files, making video, etc,.) It's not something I want to rush since Mike is being gracious enough to lend me his car for this purpose. I can't think of any reason why the outcome won't be as I expect. But definitely do whatever you are comfortable with

 

Okay, thank you for the update Shiv, I appreciate it. Yes, we certainly don't want you to rush through Mike's project. Looking forward to more updates next week.

 

Shiv, wish you all the best. You've been very nice and helpful from day 1, posting and sharing information that most people would keep close to his chest and taking the time to answer every of our questions. I think and hope you're on to something. If it works out, it'll be a major breakthrough in all senses and aspects. Many years of smoke and mirrors regarding the 458's legendary pops and burbles have made most owners a bit suspicious (which I believe, all things considered, it's only logical, understandable and natural), hence all the questions and expectations.

Looking forward to read (but most of all, hear) your results.

Kindest regards,

Nuno.

 

I just took my 2011 458 out for a spirited drive. Finally the roads are clear from the melted snow puddles. I had the remote valve controller in open mode and I heard a ton of pops and barbles while coasting after a downshift. I think I have to say mine is in fact un-flashed! So if it was flashed those sounds would be completely gone? I need to hear a later model 458 I guess to be completely sure. But at this point I think I'm good