Serviced the F430 - A Few Observations

Did the fluid service & inspection on the F430 and it was very straightforward thanks to those who have shared their experience here. I do have a few observations that might help others.

A four post lift would make it easier, but we just moved to a new house and mine is still in storage. That said, you will want to pull the wheels for the brake fluid change and inspection, so you will have to prepare for that and this isn't a bad job on your back with the car on jackstands.

When draining the oil sump, be prepared for a hell of a lot of oil to come out very quickly when you pull the plug. If you are draining the oil into the typical shallow 'home use' drain pan, you will have a huge mess on your hands if you remove the plug completely. Unscrew it just enough to get a bit of a stream going and just let it drain for a while. Once it's going, there's probably only a thread or two still engaged, so don't get greedy and think you can open it a little more or you will end up with the drain plug in your hand, your floor covered in used motor oil, and a garage filled with expletives. I learned this lesson from working on flathead Fords for years, which also have big drain plugs.

Amazon has a pretty decent oil filter wrench for $13.60 shipped.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUNYAPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As mentioned in other threads, the Airlift cooling system refiller is a wonderful tool. Drain the coolant, insert the Airlift tool into the coolant reservoir neck, attach an air hose and pull a vacuum to about 25 in/Hg. Disconnect the air hose and let it sit for ten minutes or so to see if the system hold. Mix the coolant in a five gallon bucket, drop in the hose, open the valve, and let it fill the system. When the vacuum is back to zero, the system should be full. Done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IHK1VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The differential drain plug is pretty big as well, so be ready to clean up a mess if you're not careful. The O-ring on the screen is probably fine to reuse, but a new one is about $2.50 at the dealer, so pick one up when you get your oil filter & screen, as well as the gaskets for the hose & drain plugs. My transaxle took two quarts and 18 oz. to refill to half way between the MIN & MAX markings. Take your time here after the first two quarts. Add a little, go do something else, then come back, check it, add a little more until you're there.

The Motive (or equivalent) pressure bleeder and a turkey baster makes the brake fluid change simple and is a tool any DIYer should have. Nothing new here.

Ferrari was nice enough to use conventional bolts (10mm heads) & washers to fasten the
front & rear belly pans. A small cordless driver makes this an easy job, but don't over-torque when reinstalling.

Many hex socket sets don't include a 19mm, which you will need for the sump drain plug. I like the 'stubby' ones, and a set can be purchased from Amazon or O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $20.

PowerTorque Tools GM8386 - Stubby Hex Bits Socket Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Thanks Taz, I didn't think about doing that but will do it now.