One bank no spark after engine installl

Look for a wire pulled on one of the plugs. Also takes the wire plugs apart ans see if any of the terminals collapsed, happens a lot with old wireing

 

So Bob did you mean all coils are working and their is still not spark?

 

Since your is a 95 did thy check the power modules on the coils as well.

 

If this is 2.7, then other things to check would be the crank sensor for the non-working bank and swap the ECU-s to see if the problem moves.

 

Which bank? I'll post a circuit for it and you can check the wiring between various items (coil assembly, ECU, ignition power module, earth... ). As Grant says, there's a power module for each bank.. Maybe the plug is hanging in the breeze. Also, there's an earth for the power module (maybe they didn't tighten that up).

Is there constant 12v power to the ignition coil electrical connector (pin 2) with the ignition turned on? (engine off).

 

I had an issue similar to that and it ended up being a fried ECU.

 

Passenger side (right side) crank sensor is the one behind the AC compressor. NOT the one at the bottom of the engine. Was the correct sensor replaced?

 

Here's the simplified diagram for the (EDIT) right bank... (Sorry, thinking right hand drive cars)

2.7 Ignition System (R/H)

Did they do basic wiring checks before randomly swapping out these parts?

 

Why aren't you running cat ECU's? The over temp issue would concern me personally.

 

On a 355, if you unplug the cat TCU, the signal goes high (pulled up to 5V) which tells the ecu that temp is too high and ignition is turned off. It is equivalent to having a SDL and continuing to drive it. You have to have a signal at the input of the ECU to fake that out.

 

Right- based on his codes, he might be getting a bank shut down....

 

Sure it is - if you have a bank shut down condition.

 

The question is, is it shutting down the bank because it runs at first and gets hot, or is the TCU sending a false signal to the ECU resulting in shut down on start up (i.e. it's not actually hot). AFAIK, the code being stored won't cause a shut down. The ECU must be thinking that the cat has overheated.

Need to look at the output of the CAT TCU when cold with key on but not running and see what the voltage is. It should be about 0.5V. If it's sitting at 5V it is causing the problem.

Clearing codes in in the WSM, pages C47-48.

But if this is the problem you should be getting an SD light unless the bulbs have been removed/burn't out.

 

I am not sure about the 355 but my non-cat 348 (2.7) has no problem running without TCU-s. One of them is actually bad and I get the code from the relevant ECU but no warning lights and no problem with the running of the engine. I suggest you try swapping the ECU-s.

 

I run my 348 without TCU as well, but that is not the same as a 355 TCU.

 

Just noticed the other thread. The codes indicate that the TCU is bad. This is most likely the problem. As I said above, if the TCU fails it typically sends a false Over temp signal to the ECU which will shut down the bank.

 

Connect one and test again. The ECU thinks you have a HOT Cat.

 

There are ECU relays in the passenger's side floor fuse box.

You never answered. Slow Down light? Does it come on with key in the run position before you crank it over? Does it come on go off when the engine is started?

Had to diagnose without this info.