'78 308 GTB Timing Belt Change

Have decided to replace my '78 308 GTB's timing belt, myself. Would someone kindly direct me to the process or factory instructions? (Kind of like the Porsche 944), is there anything else I need to change while I'm in there? Any special tools I should start looking for? Thanks much. -Joe

 

Have you tried to used the search feature here?

 

A lot of belt stuff in the 'sticky section'

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/281516-interesting-3x8-technical-diy-threads.html

Best
Martin

 

Good place to start... Replacing Ferrari 308 Mondial timing belts

 

Joe. Hi welcome to the forum. I live a few miles from you at Stone Hedge Country Club. I would be happy to stop over if needed. Wayne

 

Cool - a belt change thread!

 

Belt change thread is o.k.
Asking about replacement intervals would be much better

I just viewed Joe's profile. Based on other toys and occupation I recommend, if things go wrong: Shoot'em
Sorry, couldn't resist kidding a bit.


Best
Martin

 

While you're in there ? - replace the idler bearings. I like the Hill Engineering replacement bearings.

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/pt308-308-328-cambelt-tensioner-bearing-pair.html


Factory instructions are rather brief, but here's a QV Manual for reference.

http://ferrari.cdyn.com/ferrari_docs/308QV_328_workshop.pdf

 

This is really good stuff, fellas. Thank you. I bought the car with 36k on the clock in the year 2000. I haven't done a belt change during my ownership. (Feeling rather irresponsible right now.) I've only put a few hundred miles on it since I've owned it, but I feel that 17 years certainly warrants a belt change! I really appreciate everyone's input.

 

17 years and only a few hundred miles... you will need to do more than just belts.

 

I wonder how tight the spark plugs are ?

 

Joe, you should consider either rebuilding or replacing the water pump while you are replacing the timing belts, tensioners and auxiliary belts. The common failure mode is for the inner bearing to rust and seize long before any visible fluid is passing out of the weep hole. You can usually buy the needed rebuild parts from McMaster Carr for around $70. This includes the seal assembly and two premium SKF bearings. They don't list a kit so you have to locate and select the right parts individually.

 

After 17 years of little use, wouldn't the engine have difficulty rotating? Seized?

 

https://youtu.be/rn-bpUziJag

 

Belt change is fairly easy. Access is a PITA! Couple of things I figured out.

You don't need cam locks. Just paint lines off center on the cam wheels with a ruler as guide in such a way they will only line up in original position. The cams may rotate on you with tbelt off but just rotate them back. This is valve spring pressure.

If you must have a cam lock cut a hockey puck in half, invert and bolt together.

Binder clips work great holding belt in place (birdman).

There is a us tech bulletin on how to set the tension. Basically rotate the motor and watch the tensioner bucket move in and out. Then tighten it at the right spot (I forget which).

Rebuild the tensioners. You can get springs from spuk. Make sure they don't bind when you reinstall. The spring buckets should move in and out. The first one I reinstalled didn't. I did not know that was bad until I did the second one.

Do the rear bank first. It's easiest.

Take pics and note where all studs, washers and shims came from.

The ac is the biggest pita. Be patient.

Got all my parts from Gp car parts in Phoenix as I was living there. Got to walk around the back and see a lot of really cool junk exotic parts including a Daytona b getting a new life from junked parts.

 

No