Changing coolant

I plan to just drain the radiators (I realize this is incomplete, but figure if I do it yearly it should keep the fluid in decent shape). Afterwards, can I check the fluid level multiple times and top it off, or is it still necessary to bleed the thermostat after changing the coolant? If the thermostat does need bleeding, can it be accessed from the engine area or does the interior access panel have to be removed? Thanks

 

Major tip of the day: Download the WSM.

Will straighten those questionmarks out for you.

Best of luck! ��

 

Multiple drain points
Yes must bleed
Engine bay works

WSM is a great suggestion

 

Just went through this...drained both radiators and all that drains when removing the elbow, still somehow only used a gallon and a half to refill. Bled the system through the thermostat housing a couple times, it's literally right there when removing the access panel.

 

Tip of the day...

You really need this. Refills with no need to bleed.

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

Also, if you pull the pipe under the motor, very little coolant is left in the radiators.

 

Thanks - I have gone ahead and ordered the Airlift to help the process.

 

must bleed, but not necessairly through the thermostat.

 

+1

WWTX you did not indicate if you have a Modena or Spider.
If you have a Spider you cannot bleed at the Thermostat.
There is no easy access to the bleed valve from above the engine.

The Airlift kit is a MUST for a Spider.

 

Yes, it is a spider and I have the Airlift on order. Thanks for the additional insight.

 

Care to enlighten? There is an airlock at the thermostat. That is why it has to be bled there. What other option do you see?

Airlift is a great tool but a Spider can be bled from the thermostat without removing the panel. Reach over the top of the engine and use about 10" of 1/4 extension on your small ratchet. You have to feel around a little to get on the bleeder but it can be done pretty easily. I considered installing an extension tube that runs to the top to make it easier the next time but never did that.

 

the easiest (or the most time consuming) way, is to bleed just from the reservoir

Procedure:
1. add coolan/water until it top off at the reservior
2. start engine.
3. you can let the car idle, or drive the car, to operating temp, say 200F. I usually do 210F.
4. stop the engine.
5. let the car sit and cool, to the point that you can safely open the reservior without water oozing out.
6. go back to 1.

loop this for maybe 5-10 times, u are good. keep in mind that
a. driving , instead of idling the car to reach 210F will shorten your number of cycles.
b. after step 4, wearing protective gloves, and fine rotate the reservoir cap to the point the water will almost ooze out(but not), you'll hear the hot water vapors pressuring out(I call this bleeding). This will significantly shorten the number of cycles as well, to maybe just 5 cycles. Since you don't have to wait for the water to be cooled to 130F, you shorten the time for the whole operation as well.


This was done to my 360 challenge car, but the principle is the same for modena or cs.

 

That would take days. These cars seem to take hours to cool down after even a short drive. Hell, mine can raise the temperature in my garage.

 

take me about 2 hours if I do the "fine rotate cap" thing at 210F
seriously, you don't have to let it cool.

driving it, instead of idle, has the benefit of letting the coolant cycling easier.

Usually what I do is to take with me a bunch of coolants mixtures and just drive.... stop when its over 210F, wait 0 min, wear on glove, bleed, put it back

 

Takes about a half hour to remove the access panel, turn the bleed screw and put it back

 

you are right.

But the bleed screw on the thermostat didn't work for me for some reason.

for one thing, there's always water coming out of it. And its risky to remove interior for me
because I am clumsy and always break a thing or 2.

 

You are right. Do yourself a favor and just get the Airlift. It can be done without it, but why ?
None of this nonsense is necessary if you just use the Airlift.

 

You understand that the thermostat housing is higher than the other points of the cooling system; that is why the bleed screw is there. You can't remove all of the air from the system by just driving. In fact, you have a high chance of a vapor lock in the cooling system so that it looks OK on the gauge but is really not circulating so the gauge is wrong. You also have to run it with the heater on high because that part of the system can lock as well; plus it remains isolated from the rest of the cooling when not running.

If it is that much of an issue why don't you just extend the bleeder? You could then do a proper bleed on the system without the gymnastics and risk.

 

That you are right about. It took gymnastics to even feel the bleed screw on a spider while actually lying on top of the engine. Then trying to undo a screw not in line of sight made it even more difficult.

Nah, I prefer to go with the airlift. Worked for me. Obviously, my preference.

 

Don't remember where I saw it, but there was a DIY on making your own airlift system.
I bought the brass airlift and OMG it is the best!
If you plan to do this yearly, it would pay for it self in no time.

 

As I had already ordered the Airlift, I am glad the general consensus is that is the way to go.