1996 F355 Brake Warning lamp issue.

I need some real help and guidance. I have searched and found nothing that applies to my issue. It has been driving me crazy and I am determined to solve it. Maybe someone with experience or has seen this before?

I bought the car in March drive it 2-3 times no issue, then randomly the red brake warning lamp would flicker, low and dim and then full red, when that happens the ABS light comes on. All correct according to manual for brake pad sensor activation or low fluid. I checked fluid level - good of course. Replaced pads and sensors, all good now. Norwood's in Dallas says they rarely put sensors back in and when left unplugged, no grounding can occur to set lamp anyway. I keep going back to fluid sensor and think it has corroded or filled with fluid due to age and grounded out causing lamp to set.

I took trunk liner out to gain access tonight. I started car, warning lamps came cane on and stayed on. Next I turned battery off, moved plug to fluid level sensor around, turner battery on and started car. No change. Grabbed plug, put pressure on it and lights went out, Bingo! So I zipped tied tension on it and it stayed out for about 1 min and then flickered, then on! So I cut ties and started over. Move wiggle, start - stop, no change [emoji31]

Then I unplug all brake parts plugs move around, check connectors, check wires, nothing. Plug all back up, start car, flicker, flicker - out no ABS. Stop and start car, lights come and stay on.....

But wait! I start again and move key differently and no lights! I move key again while running and lights flicker and come on. Turn key car off and restart - solid lights!!

So after trial and error, about 2 out 5 times, giggling key while running will cause lights to stay off, flicker or come on. It is not consistent, but I am sure it is ignition related now.

Any thoughts on key tumbler or connector issue to ground? Is there multiple circuits energized by key that hoes to Brake system diag?

The brakes seem so much simpler on 1997 and later. I am pretty sure the Teves system is identical to Ford offerings on Lincoln's and Merkurs for similar time frame. I read a few places that mentioned that shared system.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. -Rob


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Eddie said his tech cleaned all the connections and it was fine for a bit. It came to me and was driven for several days, no issues. It is definitely a short/ground/energize issue. I have driven on a rough road and watched it go out, so it is definitely a connection issue. The way the brake warning lamp dims is akin to a fluid level sensor or brake pad sensor.

Most vehicles have a brake fluid level sensor attached to the cap. This years vehicles has a complex connector going under the reservoir under the "bottle" and goes from a 4 wire plug into a connector that then becomes 8 wires.

I know for sure that the issue is in the ignition switch or the fluid level sensor. The rough road incident, the wire giggle all leads to that. Now how do I solve it. My eyes are not to good on wiring diagrams. There is a website for the Teves system and another vehicle that uses the same setup and it was excellent, I have lost that site, but am continuing to look. It had some diagrams that showed sensor and where it fed to computer. The key thing is a new twist. Will drive today and see what happens.


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Great! Will do.


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This is a copy of the email I sent Dave last night. I reference it here so as to not type it all over again with a few edits:


Fixed! Well 99% sure. Need to road test to be 100% certain but pretty sure it is done.

After much reading and study; I determined the Teves pump components were the issue. Mainly the Accumulator and possibly the pressure switch.

Now you can imagine how crazy expensive that assembly is from Ferrari. That is the only way they service it, because Teves no longer supports it and no parts or rebuild components are available due to high tolerance metering components in the switch from Teves. But GM, Saab, Jag and Alfa do in some form or fashion. It is crazy, but that is the world of these cars. The crazier thing is the shared ABS TEVES platform for Ferrari, Saab, Jaguar, Buick, Ford, Lincoln and of course Alfa. They are all pretty identical in the 1989-1993 era for most of those cars and as late as 1996. A few different pressure switches were used and it may have to do with weight, e-brake/hand brake arrangement and minor tuning.

I bought the Accumulator for Jag first. I crossed referenced the GM number to Ferrari and Alfa, but product availability was tough. World Pac had the Jag Accumulator in stock for less than desirable price. Easy return for me if it did not work. Alfa would have same stickers, Jag version has a smaller sticker in different local, looks good for me. The system self diagnosis at every key on cycle (run then start) and measures pressure among other things. Both lights illuminate when below 1300psi. ABS light goes out above above 1500psi, brake light will still flicker. If Brake light goes solid, the ABS will light up again, so you know it is related. System works up to 2600 max. From reading, I determined my Accumulator was failing pedal test. Replaced it and lights went out briefly. Cycled key and random flickering of Brake light, then it was solid, ABS would then come on again too. Had to be failing the pressure switch/meter test. So I replaced that last night with cross referenced Buick Reatta part. What the Ford Super Coupe Guys and Alfa guys are using. Amazon, 1 left - $106!

Relieved pressure of accumulator again, with 20-25 brake pedal pumps, get to hard pedal. Pull Accumulator; pull switch and replace. Put Accumulator back on, plug harness in, key on and let pump build pressure.

LIGHTS OUT! No flickers, brake warning light out immediately on subsequent key cycles. ABS goes off as designed after 2-3 second self check once started. Pedal feels normal and behaves as before. 3-4 pedal pushes with car running before pump activates. Some guys see 5-8, most get 3-5. Mine seems to avg 4.

Road Test today or tomorrow. I am pretty sure fixed. Totally behaves as it should for start, run and warning lights test. Only way to truly test is Teves or Alfa break out box. Ford, Saab and Jag computers allowed access to Teves when plugged in. Ferrari does not from what I can tell until they went to Bosch ABS.

Wow, I feel so much better. You would have to pull trunk liner out and know the warning sticker differences on accumulator to be able to tell. I feel great about cost - less than $425 for both parts with WP account and Amazon. In my mind not really a Ferrari part as it is strictly a Teves design and Ferrari used a readily available and proven system on multiple manufacturer platforms. 328 guys on late build ABS cars had a thread too that referenced the other manufacturers for parts availability. The ABS controller self test constantly so if lights are out, it is seeing what it is programmed to see and function.

Hopefully road test confirms my excitement and joy at no lights. I can say that for sure not a wiring problem. Most of the time it is not and generally tied to Accumulators aging out and pressure switch develop internal fails causing fluid to get into plug wire area. Mine looked dry, but it is probably behind metal body into circuitry that it has leaked.

The computer was telling the truth. Brakes felt fine, ABS worked as far as I could tell, but the computer said "Hey, something ain't right and I am setting the light!

Cheers!

 

Accumulator: JLM1907

NEW Brake Accumulator Ball Jaguar JLM1907 Delco 25528382 Saab 4002267 | eBay



Pressure Switch: AC Delco 25530882

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GFRD8/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498001584&sr=sr-1&keywords=25530882

 

Road test = 100% A OK!


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