Gear oil leak. Need help.

I don't really think so. The gear box shift shaft stays in position. You can pull it in and out and rotate and it clicks to the positions - I can make a video if you like as I have my 95 out of the car.

The centering procedure must require the gear box locked between 3-4 as the WSM states.

I think the real trick is getting the actuator back to the original position.

I'll try to ask a pro about this soon as I speak to several often.

 

Skipp - Just had a nice discussion with a tech I know (Matt). He explained the SD gear box center routine just puts the actuator in N position. We both discuss the theory of this and it seems as it a matter of having the gearbox in N, the actuator in N and connecting them without a bind. That said, I asked Matt if he feels there would be any difference of using the paddles to put the actuator in N? He did not think so (nor do I) but can't confirm 100%.

So, I think you remove the actuator, replace the seal, use the paddles to center the actuator and recouple the actuator to the shift shaft per the WSM.

 

Anytime, Skipp.

The one thing that is a bit puzzling to me is the SD has a function to select neutral and also the centering routine. If they are both the same, I would not expect two options.
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Just a guess Dave, but wouldn't selecting neutral assume that the linkages were all attached and centering assume the linkage was detached so the actuator could be correctly position to connect the linkage?

Think about old school setting up a 4 speed with new Hurst shifter. You mount the shifter, position it in the neutral gate (centering). The you position all the selector arms on the transmission for neutral. Then you install the linkage rods, adjusting the length of the rods so that everything fits correctly. Then, you shift through the gears to make sure each one engages correctly and that it returns to neutral (selecting gears).

So, I'm guessing that selecting the gears and neutral is just to check that the mechanism is working correctly where as centering is for setting things up.

 

It's my understanding that the centering routine puts the hydraulic actuator into the neutral positions. That sure seems the same to me as engaging N. The actuator (I don't believe) has no way of knowing if it's connected to the gear box or not as I believe the feedback is within the actuator, not the gearbox.

I guess I need to uncouple mine and try the centering procedure. I do want to learn this stuff but using my car as a ginny pig is a little unsettling.

Matt also confirmed he does not have the shaft lock tool and it's not needed to do this....

 

Matt assumes to make it error proof

 

I just reviewed the WSM:

It says to fit the universal joint on the shift rod of the gear box but don't bolt it together. That is the purpose for the tool - so when you run the cycle, the gear box shaft can't move. Matt said he runs it before fitting the universal to the gear box shaft.

I still plan to buy the tool

 

Change a couple of words. Centering puts the actuator in the position where neutral should be. Like setting up a reference position. WS manual talks about centering whenever the actuator rod is disconnected. See page D64. Sounds like you put it all together but leave it loose. Then center the actuator and tighten things up.

Once every thing is connected you may be correct that selecting neutral or center will both put the trans in neutral. May be redundant, but remember, it's Italian.

 

Matt is checking with a Ferrari engineer he knows but he thinks they do the same, with the exception being the the centering routine spells out all the steps of connecting the actuator, etc.

I also think you are missing my point, John. Actuator centering or selecting N with the paddles, will move the actuator to the same point, it does not matter if it's connected to the gearbox or not.

 

Perhaps you have to think a little more generally. I think you may only be considering a working system. Suppose the actuator or F1 TCU needs to be replaced. Perhaps "centering" is calibrating the system by, for example, running the actuator fully one way and then the other (or whatever) and then the SD2 telling the ECU where center is, i.e. resetting the center position data in the TCU. Sort of like calibrating the top ECU on a spider so it knows when the seat position is fully forward or fully backward.

 

That's a fair point, John and without more knowledge of the actuator, we just won't know. I'm trying to get my hands on one BTW

But, in Skipp's case, he won't need to disconnect any of the hydraulic lines (I don't believe) so I'm not sure it would be an issue.

From what I'm told, for the SD1 (which is the software used on 355's) no operating manuals have ever existed on the functions and logic so it's all knowledge I must acquire from techs I know that have used the tool and my own upcoming experiences.

 

So I bought a gear box shift rod lock from Daniel at Ricambi (thanks Daniel). This is a Hill Engineering replication of the Ferrari factory tool. Good quality tool.

Here is one of my crappy cell phone videos

http://youtu.be/Cdh30yOWr6I

 

Yes. The WSM explains the procedure. When you get ready to do this Skipp - give me a call and we can chat about it.

BTW, I don't think you need the tool.

 

I believe you are correct BUT it will only put the shaft in the position it was told was center and neutral from a previous setup.

 

This is the same as what I agree with missed it earlier.