Testarossa Radiator and Oil Coolers Fans

Daniel from RicambiAmerica got back to me tonight regarding the white plugs and connectors.

Please see this post: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138571870&postcount=14


Or to follow the entire thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=138571870#post138571870

 

Do these fans use put less strain on the electrical system? Can we source the proper plug so that they will snap into the wiring harness?

 

I'm currently drawing 17 and 18 amps respectively off my fans. The curcuit is way overloaded. They should be at around 12 amps.

These new fans may reduce that even further thanks to a more modern design in the motor.

 

Here is the expected current draw from the new SPAL fans.

We need someone more clever than I to explain what the static pressure means. I think it means the thickness of the air, like as in humidity, but I'm not sure. You can see that at full 1390 cfm and 0 static pressure, these fans draw 12.5 amps.
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"Static pressure" is the pressure difference between the inlet and outlet sides of the fan (and in this application of sucking air thru a fairly thin radiator, the inlet and outlet sides are virtually both at the atmospheric pressure so the static pressure is ~0). If you completely blocked off the outlet side of the fan (so the airflow was 0 cfm), the pressure on the outlet side would be 1.4 inches H20 higher than the inlet side, but the fan motor would be running a little slower (at the same voltage input) so it draws more current (the motor generates less back emf at the slower speed). Same things happens on your vacuum cleaner if you block the inlet hose -- you get the maximum vacuum level (because the airflow is 0 cfm), but you can hear the fan motor slow down.

That 12.5A value at 1390 cfm and 0 static pressure matches my earlier measurements very well so it looks like it's a good equivalent item -- however, something must be wrong with your fan motors

 

There you go, I knew it wouldn't take long for someone more clever than me to turn up!

 

Yeah, I might pull out my left one (easy) and rip it apart for a checkup. Even though they both seem to work fine, they definately drag way too much current.

The old girl will be off the road for a few weeks soon as Winter is approaching and I have to do a clutch anyways.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Yeah....suffered the white connector meltdown as well. That numbered plug was relatively new....replaced by Shelton Ferrari.....note the crappy way they redid the wires. If I had known, I would have done it myself.

Well after a while of daily driving.....burns again. This time I removed the white plugs completely. I replaced them with individual numbered wires with gold plated high=end audio spades directly on the male spades on the box. This was very time consuming and now the box is more cumbersome to dissassamble...but solid connections and no melting.

If you look inside the white plug to see how thin and small the metal connectors are....you'd be shocked.


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

Rob, Still do not have my car back on the road but hopefully soon. Measured the Spal original fan versus the replacement and the measurements are allmost the same but is 5mm deeper ie total depth for original is 90mm as opposed to 95mm for new ones. This should make no difference as at least 5mm spare. All mounting holes should line up exactly.

 

hi all, I have consolidated Spal fans product for the Radiator (30102054) and Oil cooler fan (30100291). May i know does the oil cooler fan Spal 30100291 fit into the A/C condenser fan at the front wheel ? so that i can order 3 instead of 2 of these fans. thanks in advance

 

Good to revive this thread Leslie !

Maybe you should "wake up" Robert with a PM ... he may never know you asked him today ...

 

Thanks Mel ! I did and waiting for his response now . I just changed the alternator to 120A but it doesn't help much as the car still draws huge current when the fans are on so I decided to change all the fans


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I think that the AC fan in front of the left front wheel is a different size fan to the oil coolers.

 

There are differences in all three fan motors; case configuration, size, construction, I think connector clocking, etc. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements when I restored all my motors. The AC and oil fans are a two-brush configuration whereas the water fan motors have four brushes.

For reference my AC fan motor has the SPAL marking "VA03-A23/A 12A 12V" whereas the water fans are labeled as "12 volts VA03-AP6-37A". The oil fans had SPAL labels but no identifying PN annotated (maybe since you can't buy just the oil fan motors, only the assembly (cage and fan blade) whereas you can/could buy the oil and AC fan motors separately.

The first 2 photos are A/C fan, next two are water, and last two are oil.
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Thanx Tim ! Very good info !

 

Today I have changed my oil cooler fans and radiator fans .





The new radiator fans are more efficient and less noisy . The Amp drawn seems to be not much different to the original fans motor . I cannot test the oil cooler fans as it has not reached the temp to turn on the fans.



As for the A/c evaporator fan - here is the finding . It's exact same size as radiator fans. As for the power and amp difference between the A/c evaporator fan motor and radiator fan motor , that I don't have the info .






Maybe for A/c evaporator fan a low profile 11" fan will work ? 30100364 ?





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you may jump the thermo switch at the housing of the oil cooler

 

That's a good solution indeed to test them Romano

Any photo ?

Off-Topic
Down: photo's of jumping/testing coolingwater vents of which the one switch is hidden on the LHS in the wheelhousing ...
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@leslie_choo Did you figure out which fan from SPAL would work for the AC condenser?

 

In all of the searching, anyone come across brushes for the fan motors? I know they are 7.1 x 7.1mm square by approximately 20mm ? when new.

1/4" are available by the bag of 100 for 10 bucks, but of course these are not 1/4".