The CS keeps throwing curve balls. Here's today's. Get in 1. Hit key fob...... 2 beeps 2. Key in ignition, check ok lights up 3. I pull the paddles to put in neutral and nothing happens 4. Hit start button and nothing happens (no crank, click, etc) Put diagnostic tool on and no codes, battery is 11.91v Come back 2 hours later, car goes into neutral, starts and runs fine. Does anyone have an idea what may be rearing its ugly head? Thanks in advance.
Really? After the car has been sitting for 5 days? When it did start, charging system seems fine as it was ~14v. Since we've wandered to batteries, 360Trev sent me this. These have seriously come down in price. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HXX-12V-36AH-4-Series-LiFePo4-Connection-Pack-BMS-Protection-Portable-Black-ABS-Housing-Vehicle-Starting/32829022945.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.5.4b24ae2b7KVfhP
Hi Dave, I believe you are thinking that the charge state is linear from 0-12 volts, that is not the way a lead acid battery works. The values below are what I use as a guide. There can be some differences depending on the type of battery, SLA, FLA, AGM, GEL, deep cycle etc, but it is a good guide. 100% state of charge - 12.70 volts or higher 75% state of charge - 12.40 volts 50% state of charge - 12.20 volts 25 % state of charge - 12.00 volts 0% state of charge - 11.80 volts or lower Carl is correct the battery needs to be charged.
Yup MB60 and I are on the same page. Dino...I would not go LI battery at all. There are other ways to get a lighter battery in a street car. I hate lithium. Googgle "thermal runaway". Li batts have improved and are found everywhere even our phones. By Li still has issues and the thermal runaway issues has still not been eliminated. In the past I have used lead acid ATV and PWC bats for racecars and that is fine. They can work in the CS if it will crank the motor over and your loads are within capacity. Those are 13lb lead acids with just the issues of lead acid that we all live with. CS isn't going to see 20*F frozen garage anyway so you don't need a big brute battery. In racecars I have witnessed about 5 LI bat fires in the last 10 years. There have been more LI bat fires of racecars in trailers where everything burned to the ground.
Hi Matt - much appreciated. Carl - my apologies. I actually sent an email to JohnK this morning because I was not understanding this (my electrical knowledge is lacking for sure) and John confirmed what Carl stated but did not explain why (yet).
Hi Dino, Some more diagnosis is needed to sort this out. First charge your battery, 11.91 may still start the car but the battery is very discharged and needs to be charged. You mentioned that you got 2 beeps from the alarm siren with means the alarm ecu responded to the fob, but you should also look at your alarm led to make sure it has gone out and is not flashing. It will turn solid when the key is turned on and then should go out once the engine has started as long as the self check has passed. If it sees a problem like a failed alarm siren battery it will go back to solid and stay solid until you turn the key off. You also mentioned that you pulled both shift paddles to put the car in neutral but you didn't mention whether or not you firmly stepped on the brake pedal. The most important input to the F1 TCU is the brake switch, with out it no gear changes will occur. There is nothing wrong with manually putting the car into neutral when starting it, but it may help to know that you don't have to do it. The system is setup to shift itself into neutral when you push the start button and are stepping on the brake. I find it a good way of indicating that the brake switch is working because there will be a distinct pause while the gearbox is shifting into neutral before the engine will crank. If this issue happens again, get these additional details and let us know. Good Luck!
did you step on the brake pedal harder? if so cld be your brake pedal sensor going. happened in my 430
could be clutch position sensor, if it fails, it won't let the car start. Just a possibility but when it fails, there should be an error logged in SD2 or Leonardo in the TCU unit. (a generic code reader won't do it) I guess best bet for you now is to read all errors on a factory computer or equivalent.
New CPS 2 years ago. No codes. When the CPS went bad, it was easy to find the code. If I remember correctly when it went bad, the biggest symptoms were not allowing shifting, shutting itself off while driving (lots of fun at highway speed) and putting itself into neutral.
so sometimes your car doesn't crank and sometimes it starts perfectly so that rule out the impact shutoff valve(whatever its called) on the left of your left foot. because if it is the shutoff valve, it will crank but no start (no fuel) so you ruled out the battery already? Now I don't know about the CS, but for other cars, I'd start looking at the starter circuits, maybe a intermittently bad relay. or a rusted connector. Lift the car and take a look at the starter area. On another note, when car won't crank, did the car react in any way when you push the "start" button?
wait, is your car in 1st gear when you tried to start the car? It will not crank if the car is in ANY GEAR except neutral. If you set foot on brake and push start button and car won't crank, it is 99% relating to a brake sensor or gear changing problem......like insufficient f1 pressure or actuator problem....
