LED bulbs for taillights ??

I'm removing the rear grill on my 360 spider and was wondering if anyone knows the correct part numbers or have a good source for all the bulbs in the tail lights including the stop, turn and back up bulbs. They can probably be found on eBay but I have no idea what size or bulb number to buy. I'd like to remove the rear grill panel for some other work and would like to reinstall it the same day and would like to have the bulbs ready to install.

Also need the third brake light on the engine lid.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jim

 

Scuding Swiss has some very good options.

 

Thanks. I need to find out the bulb numbers so I can conduct a little research and shop around.

 

You can find them in the WSM/OM.

 

Thanks. I should have conducted a little search on the forum first, found the sizes in another discussion. I haven't acquired a WSM yet but should shortly. Tail lamps/stop lamps are 1157, back up & turn signal are 1156.

 

That information won't do you much good. The system monitors the tail lights and the F1 won't go into gear if the bulbs are burned out. The LEDs draw so little current they confuse the system. You can work the rest out from there.

 

Seriously ?? The taillight bulbs control whether the car goes into gear ? Guess I'll be scrapping all the bulbs I just bought. I'm full blood Italian and am proud and love the country and the cars that come out of there but the engineers at Ferrari are about as intelligent as the other European manufacturers, and that's not a compliment.

 

U can use the LEDs. Just add a couple resistors to the brake LEDs and it should trick the car.

 

VV23 is kind of right but you need to know what you are doing. You can user resistors to spoof the system but you need power resistors, not small resistors. A few on this board have done the change.

 

Yup. Standard 50W 8ohm or 6ohm should work.

My F430 has LEDs all around the car...only needed resistors for the front signal bulbs.

 

Thanks. Is there a DIY step by step anywhere ? Although I'm fairly good at auto restoration, I've never been to versed on the electrical portions. I can do the work, I just need a step by step procedure to follow so I don't destroy the car.

 

The resistor will have two wires. Connect one to the positive and one to negative for the wires going to the bulb. Doesn't usually matter which goes to where.

That's it. Done. Double sided tape it somewhere where its not touching anything as the resistors get hot.

 

I've done a lot of LED mods on all my cars.
I've used those load resistors in the past. Just be careful as those load resistors get really really hot especially if lights are left on for an extended period.

I dont recommend load resistors.

 

Yep and an 1157 has a 21 watt bright element. A 6 watt resistor can easily burn up and be a fire hazard if the duty cycle is very high or duration on is very long. That is why commercial kits don't solve the problem that way.

 

I used Scuding Swiss and paid for their conversion LED running light kit and paid for it in Swiss Francs. I love they use a light bar for the third brake light versus the dot matrix OEM. Also, all four rear round lights illuminate when lights are on and when you brake versus just the inside or outside rear brake lights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not true. I've replaced all my lights with run of the mill LED's from Autozone. My car drives fine. Blinkers blink fast but I plan to buy a load balancer like the one I have on my Harley when I switched all those to LEDs too.

 

Really? That means you could get stranded if a bulb burns out...

 

There are some threads here about that. You can do a search.

And a former member actually designed an ECU to bypass that Ferrari feature that wont allow the transmission to engage if the brake lights are burned out as cars behind you can rear end you if the brake light bulbs are out so it becomes a safety issue.

See here: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/360-modena-challenge-stradale/68-no-f1-failure-brake-light-connection-cable.html

Only one way to find out - remove your tail light bulb(s) and see if you get an F1 failure light and see if you can engage your gears.

I will try and do this / confirm this once I get back from vacation.

Dan

 

Scuding stuff is plug and play... tried and tested... some of you like to tinker... I am more of a 'use what works' kinda guy... im not one to reinvent the wheel.

 

I got the full scud LED kit and 3rd brake flasher module too... it's super bright and got the all 4 lights On version; which makes it look nicer at night....
it's not cheap but was nice easy install...
I will post pictures of my install and what it looks like...

need to get their turn sig. flasher too and do the front turn sigs as well....

I have tried 1156/7 LEDs from ebay; becareful......some are cheaply made and burn out early...
the phillips ultinon and other name brand ones are prob. better....

one of the ways to avoid a load resistor is to get the electronic flasher relay from scudding ...it will also do 3 flashes per tap, etc etc. and makes extra audible noise, etc...

then you can put any of the LED bulbs that are out there w/o impedance issues... that load resistor gets HOT... no good.... plus you are burning the electricity into head..... negates having an LED bulb... well, the crisp bright on /off is still there but....



jR

 

Fortunately I will never have that problem in my manual...

 

Yep, I too have the Scud Ing Swiss LED kit including the front turn signal, 3rd brake light and the smart turn signal solid state ECU. 1,000% happy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

So presumably not a concern for 6mt cars?

 

True