I am following ferrari's instructions: Stretch the belts as follows: lever in holes 3and4 on the belts-stretching bearing. Rotate towards the engine inner side until the catch 5 is free to slide in its housing, then lock the bolt 1. Let engine run for some minutes(not sure how to do that lol) and check the distance 6 on the mule guide should be ~= 2.5mm and the catch 5 free to slide. The "mule guide" is stepped. one side can be almost flush and the other side fully compressed is about 2.5mm. I Rotated the bearing until the pin moved freely and tightened the bolt. I've met 1 of the two requirements, i can still slide the pin in and out of the catch freely, but im getting ~1mm on the flush side and ~3+mm on the higher stepped side. I am kinds thinking ferrari just eyeballed the gap and wrote ~2.5mm I just dont want to assume anything, (the picture below is not mine) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And that is the dilemma, Grant. If the bottom thinner slot is adjusted to 2.5mm, then the pin no longer slides easily in and out of the locking holes.
Are you replacing the belts and reusing those nasty old tensioners and tensioner bearings? They should be replaced along with the belts. I set the tension so that the pin can slide in/out of the hole without too much trouble, and the smaller gap is usually very close to 2.5mm
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Haha, of course not. That was just some random picture from the internet. Here is the picture of mine, you can actually see through the pinhole to the other side The only thing I can thinkthat may be lost in translation is the 2.5mm shows up while ruining
I am not sure I understand Mitchell? When I did mine aftr removing the pin and turning engine over several times it was very close to 2.5 mm. It was between 2.5 and 3 for sure. Am I missing something?? ?
The tensioner is what tensions the belt. The adjustment required to get the tensioner into the beginning of its working range,so it will still tension the belt as the belt stretches. it is not super critical adjustment, but you need to have some kind of gap between the bracket for the belt idler and the body of the tensioner, otherwise it will be metal on metal, and the tensioner will not be doing its job. As long as the pin can slide in/out of the hole, then the tensioner is right where is should be. If the gap is a little larger or smaller than 2.5mm, you are ok.
