I went in for a 5k major, it cost XXXX more and here's what happened"

Me too, but not sure I would re-time again the second time I do it. I've brought this up prior and will say again.....

We all (yep, me too) get all flustered over the precision of the timing. But, we can only time 1 cylinder per bank and the others will be a result of fixed parts that cannot be adjusted. The tolerance stackup of all those parts will certainly make the other 3 cylinders per bank not match the one we time and obsess over. For kicks, when I'm putting my motor back together, I'm going to check all the other cylinders and log the variance. I'd bet that variance exceeds the tolerance of the belt.

 

I will check the same. Interested to see the results.

I've checked several cylinders on GM V8 engines I have timed and they were all the same.

 

Can you define "All the same", Jim? Like 0.00 degrees difference? I just cannot imagine that. The wrist pin bore to crank bore of the con rod is held very tight, but still has a tolernace. The angular tolerance of the crank journals for the rods is another. I'd bet their are near 10 different measurements that can alter the stackup..

 

Except for learning and curiosity, John. My 98 runs like a Swiss watch and was last done by Tony D at Algar. Tony's the best and I have no reason to believe it's not perfect but my curiosity won't let me not check it out

 

I believe that most of the commenters here are DIY guys or at the very least have a legitimate understanding of how an engine works. They understand the value add of having a shop perform an engine out major, but are not paranoid by the what-if's. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is my understanding from this thread.

On the other hand, some Ferrari owners don't know the difference between a wrench and screwdriver. They have discretionary income and are not scared away by big bills because they own a Ferrari! They lusted after a car for years, and finally have one. They associate an engine out major service with putting on a nice, crisp pair of new socks. They will stop at nothing to have their car be "perfect". They will listen to their "master tech" and do whatever is recommended...hook, line, and sinker.
Now comes into question the integrity of the tech's performing services on said vehicles. How many are inclined to perform the work correctly first time vs. leaving things broken to ensure future business? How many are selling their customers restorations when they need a belt change? (I'm sure there are more than a few) How many of the new, younger techs truly understand how to diagnose/repair these 20+/- year old vehicles vs connecting a scanning tool and throwing parts at a problem? How many tech's perform janitorial work to correct the half ass work done by the previous tech's when cars change hands or fed up consumers go someplace else?

The indy shops that were once considered a bargain in comparison to dealer prices are now considered experts and can charge just as much if not more.

This is where the exorbitant repair bills come from...paranoia and previous neglect. This is what dilutes the prices of these cars.

If there was a DIY network where friends helped friends across the country (there are a few, but I'm talking nationwide), I would bet that the total cost of ownership would decrease significantly, the knowledge and appreciation of the cars would increase, and eventually the values would creep up along with the camaraderie.

This coming from a guy who has an understanding of my vehicle and would love to wrench it myself, but don't quite have the confidence to do it myself, and am tired of spending tons of money on services because I know better.

 

It's been some time since I did it but I don't recall any discernible difference between cylinders, all were checking the same. Just with a degree wheel and pointer so if we are breaking it down to hundreths of a degree I would need something digital. I think even for one degree difference something in the crank/connecting rod/piston/wristpin/cam would have to be pretty whacked

If checking it again on a future service is a waste of time I'm 100% ok with that as this is a machine I like wasting time on.

 

For giggles - I pulled up my service records from last major done at Algar. They used the service kit P/N: 70001685 and that kit does contain the cam seals.

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Dual, overhead cams or push rod motor?

 

Pushrod motor, indicator on the lifter body.

 

Oh I get it. You read books. I work on cars. You DO NOT know what you are talking about. I am going to stop debating with book readers.

 

Mitch - want to know how many dealer techs and independents do lock-n-swaps? More than you would imagine..

 

Other than the fuel injectors, everything was documented with photos and they even invited me to inspect personally before proceeding. I did go down, and meet with their technical director and he ran me through all of their findings. I have the utmost confidence in Mark Glenwood (Windsock on Fchat) to only do the "right thing" when working on my cars.

IF you wish to go further, let me know what specifically you feel was "questionable" and I would be happy to go into further detail on the "how and why" the specific item was repaired or replaced. Trust me I asked a lot of questions, particularly on the first major, as it was the most expensive one.

 

I'm curious, what does it cost for the dealer to refinish the cam covers? I'm amazed at the frequency of this added service during a major. Aren't the new Ferraris powder coated? I'd do that, and be done with it forever.

 

That's the one thing I tell them NOT to do when my F355 Challenge goes in for its major service.


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There's lots of racing history on those cam covers!

 

Many dealers don't do it at all since they don't have the resources. And no, new Ferrari covers are not powder coat. It's still a spray, wrinkle finish coating.

 

I dont buy this. I think you will find when you time one they will all be good. I think their tollerances are way smaller. I only say this because to get the most out of the engine these things need to be exact. It will be dissapointing if the engines are build to my f150 specs.

Time will tell.

On another note can you clarify the seals you are not replacing, ie rubber etc from a ricambi oarts diagram. Thanks Dave.

 

Also after 5 years they dont look nearly as new, way darker after the heat cycles.

 

I've gone over $20K a couple of times with the, "while you're in there" approach. It's my money, and I like knowing exactly how everything is in there. Plus, my cars have taken me on several vacations, a couple over 4K miles, with zero breakdowns. This is why I do it.
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Grant - I can promise you a F150 crankshaft has been made to as good of tolerances if not better than a Ferrari crankshaft. For Con rods, the 355 tolerance from the wrist pin hole to the crank journal bore is .05mm or .002". My comments are about stack up tolerances.

 

Aside prettyness and resale value why would one do that?


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Agreed. Service on my TR is expensive as is so not doing that


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