My 328 is in for new belts and bearings. The last change was in 2008, at about 100,000 miles. It now has about 117,000 miles on it, so I've been slacking. The belts that came off look great. No cracking, splitting, rips, anything. Very pliable. OEM-style bearings are rumbling a bit, but still spin freely. They're being replaced by Hill bearings. This is only the third belt change in 30 years and 117,000 miles.
I agree I have 3 belt changes from new and the car has 72.000 miles 1988 328 I think driving it is the answer
As always its the bearings you need to keep an eye on. I've had (SKF) bearings passed as fit & then condemned less than 3K miles later. I've also just taken a set of Hills bearings off this year with about 11 K on them & they seemed in good shape.....
Those from Hill Engineering. They are a premium japanese bearing and light alloy anodized outer roller. With my annual mileage they are good for at least two belt changes. Want to say, I do not scrap them. I check them and if they are still running smooth and without play they stay. The SKF were good in former times. But around year 2010 quality suddenly dropped to Chinese standards. Best from Germany and Merry Christmas
And how many kms/mls.? While years are relevant regarding the belts, they are not regarding bearings. Bearing lifetime is limited by load and revolutions. I often wonder, what's the bigger risk. Scrapping a still good bearing, which ran since a few thousand miles and replacing it with a new, maybe faulty bearing or keeping a still perfectly working part. I have seen many faulty new bearings from the most famous premium manufacturers. I want to say; Every new part is a certain risk compared to a well-tried used and still not worn part. I think we throw things away too soon. O.k. Me no more. Best from Germany Martin
I'm in the middle of a belt change, remounting the compressor at the moment. The SKF bearings I replaced with Hill bearings were installed in 1995 and have been in use through 4 belt changes. Upon taking the bearings off, there was not play and turning was smooth. But I figured 22 years was enough.
Yes, two. I keep trying to stretch out the belt change interval but keep getting brought back to tearing the thing down by leaking cam seal o rings . Hopefully this time I have done it right. I changed them this time because they have been on there over 6 years & 11k Miles & by the next time I change the belts it would hopefully be nearer 10 years & then also 20K miles. For the sake of a 135 quid I decided to just change them & then all being well they (and the belts) can stay there for a while. 3 years for the belts, 6 for the bearings. I'd be quite happy to change the belts once a year were it not for the faff of dismounting & remounting the AC compressor - I do hate doing that!
I spent several years working on high-speed document transports, which used around 200 bearings in each machine. They never used to fail until around 2008 when we started having to change bearings on a daily basis. They were branded SKF. but were almost certainly fake: http://www.skf.com/uk/news-and-media/news-search/2017-01-31_skf_destroys_15_tons_of_fake_bearings.html
Read on Hills Engineering homepage that they have also had problems with fake bearings. The fake one missed text on the side of the bearings, if I recall correct. Huge problem for the industry. /Peter
The AC compressor is the biggest PITA -specially considering how poor the A/C system is. I seriously consider just ripping it out every time I change belts & bearings. All my lines are just barely long enough to move it off to the side. If the lines were just another 1/2 inch longer it would be a much easier job.
I am very disturbed by the defective/fake bearing issue. I always replace the bearings when I change out the belts (while your in there strategy) and have never found a bad bearing. I always used SKF bearings but I think next time I will use the Hill bearings. I need piece of mind for something this critical.
I'm finishing off my belt change job. I always remove the gas tank so access to everything is much easier. This time, however, I thought I'd do it without removing the tank but could not move the compressor over the top of the tank because its pulley/clutch would not clear the water pump pulley given the limited movement due to the refrigerant hoses. So I gave up and removed the gas tank like I've always done in the past. Gas tank removal necessitates brake rotor removal.
