456 Radiator removal, repair and observations

While working my way through my 456GT I found some dots of coolant on the front undertray. Time to remove the radiator and send it out.

First, some observations on removal:

Some people have said that removing the front bumper is necessary. I did not remove mine, but removing the front bumper would make the job easier. The reason for this is, the radiator lower mounts will catch on the air intake ducts so either you have to work the ducts free (which requires removing the air boxes or risking damage to the fiberglass ducts,) or remove the front bumper.

The fans are mounted to the back of the radiator with 4 bolts. These should come off before removing the radiator.

The AC condenser can stay in place. Mine had been monkeyed with before, the cage nuts were removed, and bolts forced in backwards. A lot of extra work to get it off, but in most cases, it will be easy. I removed the AC line clamps next to the radiator in order to move the condenser aside.

The oil and water radiators should come out together. Once the intake ducts are taken out or the bumper is removed, and the fans are removed, this isn't difficult.

Removal should be a two person job if at all possible. It's not that heavy, but can be hard to break free from the lower mounts.

For repair, I took my water radiator to Valley Radiator in Van Nuys. They pressure tested it, cleaned it out, repaired it and gave it a new coat of paint for $75, same day service. Should it leak again, removal should be easy next time and it will take around 60 more removals before I reach the cost of a new replacement.

 

Great blog to remember when it happens to us.

 

My '95 456 GT was consistently pushing 225 F idling or in traffic on hot days. I replaced the aftermarket thermostat (with holes drilled in it) with a correct OEM thermostat. The fans checked out in spec. (All hoses & clamps had been recently upgraded, including under the intake.) So, I was interested in a Ron Davis custom radiator (Ron Davis Custom Aluminum Radiator Page). The guys there were very helpful. However, due to the differences between 456 builds they required exact measurements. I went ahead and had Gregory Triguax, GTM & Son in Greer SC, remove the radiator, make the measurements, clean up the radiator and reinstall. Turns out those early 456's had the welded radiator/oil cooler combo. (Mine is assembly 19441). This makes the custom replacement roughly twice as expensive. Also, I think lead time is about 10-15 weeks.

So, I now have a set of expensive measurements (for the future). Not sure if they would be useful for other owners.

Luckily, post radiator clean out, the car is now idling in traffic around 210 F on an 85 F day. It returns to 190 F or slightly below after a few minutes of 45 mph 2,500-ish RPM in clean air. This seems to be okay, but I'm saving up for an evantual radiator/oil cooler replacement.

John

 

I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have an opinion for radiator removal: front bumper vs intake ducts? I have a shop crane to hold the bumper up.

 

When my technician removed the radiator on my 456 he didn't mess with the front bumper at all - I saw him do most of that work while I was loitering around his shop.

 

It's a lot easier if you remove the front bumper, especially putting it back together correctly. If you don't remove the bumper, be prepared to fiddle, jiggle, and angle a lot. These cars are old enough that most susceptible parts, like the radiator, have probably been removed more than once, so if you take off the bumper, you will more than likely find a number of things to fix correctly.

 

Cool thanks. What other sensuous parts were you thinking about?

 

i paid my tech to swap in a RD. looks as factory and the car runs noticeably cooler

 

Just got the bumper off. Shop crane made it easy. Will try get the radiator out tomorrow. Should I have the oil radiator serviced as well? do they go bad? corrosion from the inside seems highly improbable.

 

I had no problem with the oil radiator, although you should check the condition of all of the hoses. The ends rot.
As far as other things to look for, missing screws or clips, ripped hoses - esp. brake duct, fit of all the accessible parts, other odd repairs over the years.

 

True dat.

Some missing screws and the brake ducts are not the same. Kind of tatty too. Set for replacement Front structure looks very straight with the exception of one under cover tab that I will bend back to shape.

 

Ken,

Are you going for a Ron Davis radiator? The 2002 456M/GT I just bought had one installed by F of Seattle and I'm thinking of sending the one out of my '99 to them for measurements and fab of a new one for that car as I've heard nothing but good things.


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Aaron- Ron Davis has just about all the versions of the 456/456M radiator specced out. All they probably need is photos of yours so they know which version you need.

 

Thinking about it. Not sure about the oil cooler. Looks like it's welded to the radiator, but the parts pic shows it bolted together... Going to get it out and take a look.

 

That's what I was hoping however I spoke to them and if I'm not mistaken, they asked me to ship mine down to them...although maybe they just wanted measurements. Can't recall for certain. I'll have to look back on my emails and see what they say.

In hindsight, I just had to replace the left side rad on my 355 and wound up getting an all aluminum one from Ricambi for $850. Wonder if RD has done any for 355s. If not, I can send them my old one to make measurements off of as maybe they can get one hammered out for less than Ricambi. As small as it is, one might think $450-550 would be more in line.


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It's not welded to the radiator... at least it wasn't that way from the factory.

 

Would you have the measurments? I have a simialr welded radiator. I can't seem to PM you.

 

I’ve just had the radiator out on my 2001 456M after spotting coolant drips on the garage floor and under-tray. I didn’t need to take the bumper off - with the airboxes and ducts out the way, the fan sssembly lifts out from above then the radiator drops out below complete with oil cooler. Two person job due to the size and weight, but not too difficult.

I had a local specialist re-core it for around £400 (Ferrari list price £4k+) - he fitted a slightly thicker core than original (42mm) to give a bit more cooling capacity. He mentioned it was a challenge to get the lower pipe union to take due to the differences in the material thicknesses, so you need someone with good experience and a bit of talent!

 

The radiator prices from Ferrari is pretty crazy....

 

Hello John,
I have a 95 456GT. Would you mind sharing the data measurements on the radiator?
Thanks,
MK

 

I have a similar issue with my 1995 456GT. I’m in Norfolk so I’d be interested to hear which radiator specialist you used?

 

Hi - I used Sheldrake & Wells in Ipswich for the re-core, although they did struggle to get the lower union to take as mentioned. Subsequent to this, I had a triple-pass radiator fabricated by MJS Fabrication in Maldon, Essex. I took the original down to them and they made an exact match - great quality workmanship, more efficient cooling and a fraction of the price of an OEM part. Hope this helps!

 

Hi all,
After years of lurking I finally purchased my first Ferrari, a nice grey over black 456GT from late 1997! As it has some miles, there’s some work to do on it. Amongst others I need to fix the leaking radiator.
After reading accurately all possible threads I would like to try by myself to remove and send for repair.

A couple of questions :
- does the car need to be lifted ? Which parts need to come downwards?
- an oil drain is required as well or is it possible to separate the radiators in place?
- maybe a detailed procedure I.e. service bulletin could help?

many thanks!

 

Davie, did you need to lift the car to drop out the rad and oil cooler?

 

I pulled my stock radiator out the top on a pre M 456.