Can anyone explain the differences between the two and pros and cons please? if any. Thx Mike
2.7 - OBD1 Basically set up and ran as 2 separate 4cyl engines. 2 ecu's 2 crank sensors, 2 etc/etc Ecu's mounted at the very rear of the car under the 1/4 panels no knock sensors no rear o2 sensor (as all obd1 vehicles) no bypass thermocouple 2 maf sensors/separate inlet tracts connected to rear of 1/4 windows on berlinetta and GTS, door scoops on spider. early 2.7 lighter pistons, dual fuel pumps and larger cylinder head ports because of the above, engine bay is exceptionally symmetrical different header configuration from 5.2 cars and what would appear to be a higher flowing secondary exhaust path (y-pipe) as a result. Fuel injectors larger than 5.2 cars no immobilizer All Challenge cars are 2.7 Upsides- Many would tend to disagree but it seems the 2.7 cars have a slight advantage in power. This holds true in my very small sample group of 2 cars but who knows. I think my 2.7 berlinetta has put down some of the best numbers I've seen, comparatively. Much less likely to have a check engine light due to the obd1 system. Downsides- Unless you have an SD1 about all you can do for diagnosis is be smart or pull codes through flashing dash lights activated by momentary contact switches in the engine compartment. OBD2 is much easier to diagnose with most aftermarket scanners both in retrieving codes and having access to a live data list. With no immobilizer you also have no keyless entry/remote. I very much disliked the immobilizer so I will gladly give up a remote for it's lack of existence. I don't lock my doors because no one knows how to open them. More of an observation than a downside, but in my opinion the 2.7 cars have a rougher/rowdier idle. Why? Not entirely sure but the 5.2 cars seem to be smoother. Maybe because that's what happens when you control one engine with one computer instead of two. Bronze guides which seemed to have a high failure rate. (no issues on my car so far but it's low mileage, maybe that's why, not sure) Just mentioning it because while the failure rate is considered high it doesn't mean every 2.7 car has bad guides or that every later car has good guides. 5.2- Well a lot the inverse of what's mentioned above but lets go over a few points. OBD2 of course so more possibility of check engine light but easier to scan/diagnose. ECU mounted inside passenger compartment I believe on the bulkhead behind the front seats behind a cover. I believe in 97 the F1 box was introduced? So of course all F1 gearbox cars are 5.2. Single maf instead of dual and inlet ducting goes to door scoops on all version cars. Has immobilizer/key fobs From a certain build number, I think 27689 from a quick search switched from bronze to sintered steel guides which seem to be much more reliable. (to that point I don't recall any 360's with 5 valve head with guide problems). However, it has been mentioned that certain cars after that build that -should- have had sintered guides had one side steel other side bronze if I remember correctly. In other words, much less chance of a problem but not eliminated entirely. I prefer 2.7 for it's slight performance advantage. Actually if I was buying today I would probably import a Euro car. For some reason they seem to have less value in the states but they are lighter, you can get it with no airbags, most had (IMO) better/more interesting color combos, more with carbon seats and no bumper side marker lights. All are excellent cars and above all else you will have the best experience by seeking the nicest most maintained example you can find. Sorting a neglected example isn't for everyone, even if it seems like a good idea at first.
Now that is a great post. Thx. I was just reading a search here as suggested and as usual every thread has people going off track of the topic. Ive owned my 308 Gt4 for 17 yrs and just went through its second bare metal and engine out and I cant even tell you on this post what ive done. Don't get me wrong the car is great, but I'm thinking to get something safer as I want to do some c and c with my 11 yr old. but today I was reading and watching 355 videos and heard about the 2 motronic systems , so I figured id ask here. thanks a lot. good info
Haha, lmao Dave. Mike, if you like I'll trade you a drive in the GT4 for a drive in the 355 if you want to try one out. I wasnt planning to drive it again until I did headers and engine out but the crusty old timing belts will probably hang on for a few more miles.
Image Unavailable, Please Login James that would be great. I'm waiting for my car to get back from custom cars in Lagrange this week and then I need to fix a oil line problem. Btw who does your engine out?
Sounds good Mike, looks very nice! Let me know when you want to meet up. Mine had some work done by Custom cars as well. I'm doing the engine out and building headers. Collecting parts at the moment.
Thx I will. Building header? that's crazy . You must have some good tubing benders in your garage. Doing the engine out yourself doesn't look to tough other than dropping all the stuff out the bottom. You have a 2 post I assume?
I will buy mandrel bent 180deg bends and cut them up to build the headers. Waiting on some custom flanges then I can get to work. I do have a 2 post lift.
Good idea with the prebent. And lucky you have a 2 post. I was thinking today out in the garage how I could or would remove a 348/355 lump on a 4 post. That's what I have
There are several threads with people doing the engine out with 4 post lifts. It been done a number of times and is pretty straight forward. Do a quick search, you’ll find them.
Here’s one of several. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/355-engine-out-with-4-post-hoist-the-safe-way-with-pictures.234071/
thank you, though its not a 355, its a different experience. kinda 60s but but more like 70,s. Thanks
that would be a pain in my garage due to layout, and would need to be done with garage door open. ever here of anyone pulling the motor then trailering it to dealer/indy and have the service done to save hours of R and R labor?
Yes. SD1 was the start used on 355. SD2 was 360 up to (Not including 430) SD3 430 on. SDX modern cars. SD2's work on the 355 (and other models) by using what is called porting software. I have an SD2 - see this thread: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/learning-using-and-documenting-the-use-of-an-sd2-on-a-355.554993/
Varies - they don't come for sale often. Can be anywhere from $12K - $25K (but I think the high end was years ago)
