I have not made it to the shop with mine, currently out of town and busy with other pressing matters. I may just order a new transmission magnetic sensor cable and replace that, everything is removed now, 5 minute job, who knows that may be it.....Even if not, I understand that some shops keep them in stock as they apparently fail often on older cars, so good preventive replacement and at $260 not a crazy price. No matter what though, still taking to shop to get reading and see what the sd2 tells us and do some other maintenance.
And so starts another one or two of the "F1s fail constantly" threads. Guys, don't just throw parts at it, get it diagnosed properly from someone who has the tools and knowledge. When it is fixed it will be done right, be reliable, and worry free. It is this utter refusal to do it right and instead throw parts at it that causes these 'recurring' and 'constant' problems with an F1. I have been driving my car for 13 years now and I have had zero problems after I had it sorted properly by someone who knows what they are doing with that system. GET IT DONE RIGHT and don't shadetree mechanic this.
The gear actuator could be faulty. If you look at the gearbox design, 1st and 2nd gear are both engaged by the actuator finger at the left position. If it can't move to middle or right position due to a leak, it is stuck in the first 2 gears. Also the 2 gear position hall sensors could be a possible cause.
Skidkid, I totally agree with you throwing parts at it is a wast of money and it should be diagnosed properly! I figured with almost 20 years of the F1 system being out there (not counting the 355) and all of its issues that have come up, there would be more substantial information and diagnoses to these fails. I understand that it is a complex system but not that complicated. I guess with all of the safety features its just too hard to pin point unless you have a diagnostic tool.
You are correct, it isn't like these are a complete mystery. The real challenge is that you can't tell anything about what is happening without getting some diagnostics done. There are a bunch of known potential issues a but no way to know without data. It is like me asking you why my car is getting a random misfire. Is it because of a bad wire, coil pack, plug, gasket, valve guide, ..... the list goes on. Without data you have no way to even begin a reasonable guess. What is the pressure in the system? What error codes are stored, even if they are not triggering a light? Have you checked all connections for leaks? How about the distribution block? Is the throwout leaking? Is the PIS set correctly or too tight (many here run it too tight so there is drag that keeps it from shifting cleanly)? Is the TCU responding correctly? Did any parameters in the TCU get corrupted during a low battery issue? Is the CAN bus operating correctly? You get the idea. No way to know without getting some data and the starting place is a reading from the SD.
As Skidkid notes The F1 system is DESIGNED to be diagnosed with an SD1. True, an uncles-brothers-barbers-son had the Cam Position Sensor go... the other 215 parts on the system that could lead to a fault equally also need to be considered. Sd2 or leonardo it baby... My concern and wish is that as these cars age, they may enter THAT phase. You know, when the guy gets it on eBay or craigslist for less than an Accord. Pimps it out, drives all around town flaunting "my Ferrari" until the transmission light comes on and it doesn't shift. They replace the "insert-name" sensor cause its the cheapest one in hopes it gets it working.. but it doesn't solve the problem. Whereafter the car sits in the back yard maybe under a tarp until the wife or landlord makes them sell it...
Grumpy cat, is it you? Seriously, I did not provide remote diagnosis and I was not suggesting to replace one of the mentioned parts. I was just trying to limit the possible error sources, which helps a lot if you are looking for the problem - with or without SD.
So.. as I mentioned in a previous post, I have an autel maxi sys ms908 and it will communicate with all of the module except the TCU module. I have read that this was an issue with the early TCU's. I have a 1999 with a tau p/n 185301. Thoughts?
I tried with autel too and cant read TCU of my 360. Is a tool problem, not your tcu. Mine My 2003 192263 TCU
Really? You didn't try to diagnose???? The first sentence was "The gear actuator could be faulty." and you spent the rest of your post supporting why that is possible. Don't BS me.
That is likely but that is also why well kept examples of the 360 will be collectable DESPITE all of those saying 'never never never'. By the way, I don't think that means 5 years. Probably more like 20 to see any real movement.
I will not be able to take mine in until late next week. Keep me posted...I will post my results when I get them.
Update..... So after letting a shop look at the car, the tech tells me i will need a clutch and a new actuator! I can't believe how many people out there really don't know what they are talking about. I decided to just tackle this on my own and hopefully with the help from you guys on F-chat. The first thing i did was install a CS TCU because that was an upgrade i was going to do anyway. With the CS TCU I was able to communicate with the ms908! Clutch wear is 32% and the PIS is set to 4.25. the Pressure reads 53psi....im thinking that the unit for PSI in the MS908 is wrong and that is actually in Bar. I bleed the system several times and completed a learning procedure. I had two error codes, 1. P1760 brake switch and 2. P0600 can error code. Cleared them and reset the battery. ignition on and no more f1 light! I decided to take it for a quick ride and as i was able to shift up to 6th, a few hundred feet later F1 light came back on. Turned around and went back home to see what error codes. The same two cam back with an additional code for gearbox input revolutions. I replaced the brake switch a few days later and cleared the codes the same way. Reset battery and all good. Went for a drive and a few hundred feet and F1 light came back on. ......Oh and forgot to mention that both time after light came on i lost the ability to up shift passed 2nd. Almost like a fail safe mode. I decided to shut car off and restart. Started to drive back and i was able to upshift with no problem but light still on. Today I decided to try and bleed the system one more time. Cleared all codes and went for a drive but same thing happens after a few hundred feet. Shut car off and restarted. Shifting was back. so went for a longer drive and wanted to try out the sport mode. All good. ASR mode, all good. Low grip and more issues.....lost all shifting and stuck in the gear. As soon as i would shut off low grip back to normal( Still with F1 light on.) I ordered the new sensor and should be her tomorrow. I also don't understand why the brake switch is coming back after i replaced it. All bulbs are good. Lost at this point........ Will post after new sensor tomorrow
I would be more concerned about the can error. If there is a communication error changing parts is chasing ghosts.
You need a logic analyzer and some special knowledge. Alternately, you can start inspecting the wiring harness for shorts. Electrical issues are never easy or cheap. That is why flood cars are SO bad/ risky. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
So I installed the new gear sensor today and cleared the codes. Went for a ride and all fine for up to mile and gear box light came on. Went back home and checked for errors. The P1760 brake switch error cam back on but th others didn’t. Any suggestions. Going to go through the wiring and see if I can find anything. Other than that car shifts fine!
John, what sensor part number did you replace ? Sooo many sensors on this car that can go haywire.... Also, the electrical part may be a good tip off, along with constant brake light code, even after replacing the brake foot pedal brake switch.....
The error code I was getting was P0715 Gearbox Input Revolutions I replaced the 168729 SENSOR I was just playing around with the brake light and realized that only half was working. I replaced the bulb and reset the car/cleared codes. Too late to take for a ride. Ill try tomorrow and see all is good.
I had the same problem, but I also have a good diagnostic tool. I got a P0715, and replaced 168729 and was done and back on the road. FYI....... 168729, when supplied in the pretty yellow box with the horsey on it is $350. However...... Maserati uses the same part number. The box isn't as pretty.......... but it's $150.
