Haw to avoid overheating in hot weather for my 360?

If possible, drive early morning or later at night when traffic or construction delays are less likely.

Strategery!

 

We have gotten into bumper-to-bumper in the Arizona heat a few times. Temps in the mid nineties. Never a problem with our 360. Both fans ran the whole time and coolant temps ran from 195-205 as the passenger side fan cycled on and off. I used to worry about this when we first bought the car as we had a stuck fan relay. Once fixed it's not been a problem at all.

 

I've driven my 360 Spider with air con on in California traffic jam at 104 degrees heat with no problem. I would make sure that your charging system (alternator/battery) is up to snuff because the radiator fans does turn on often. If possible, measure the battery voltage with the accessories turned on and at idle, you should get at least 13v. Less than that, you'll risk draining the battery while the car is sitting in traffic.

 

Please.. I’ve driven my car in 90 degree charleston heat with the ac on. Never overheated in going on 8 years of ownership.
It will overheat if your water pump is bad or fans are dead... otherwise it will do fine. The Italian engineers know what they’re doing.

 

My 360CS has never overheated even in the middle of the Australian summer in city traffic. The one time it showed a high water temp, it turned out to be a bad temp sensor.

 

Don't worry about it.
Driven my '99 Modena Coupe in Phoenix when the outside temp was 110 deg. AC on and no problems.

 

In Italy in the summertime it gets VERY HOT so these cars are designed for hot weather !!!

 

Agree with all other comments about never overheating even here in the S La swamp where very high heat and humidity are routine.

 

As others have alluded if everything's working as they should you will have no problems. I find my car (as others) to be quite reliable
So before taking off check these few things:
(1) Verify proper coolant level in the system (head tank)
(2) Verify that both fans will run when asked to. On a trip last year to Montreal 400 miles away I found one of my rad fuses was blown. Don't know long it was like that
(3) When was the last time you changed that cheap head tank plastic cap. If you haven't I would do so.
(4) Walk with a couple of those maxi fuses (in the front boot) for the fans
(5) I have a jumper wire to make my fans run manually if the sensors/logic fails to make them run. Just in case since I go on long trips frequently

 

All of the responses are correct; it isn't an issue. BUT Fred's comments are good common sense.

 

Steve and Fred
Great advice!

 

IF your car starts to overheat shut off the AC NOW and turn up the heat full blast and roll down the windows. High temps will warp blocks and heads. Ask me how I know
Heater cores are mini "radiators".
I used this trick on my TR8 here in Texas summers.

Works incredibly well.

Race cars with radiators of bare minimum size use 'Water Wetter" and water only.
Supposedly the best liquid conductor of heat.
I think adding it to your normal fluid drops max coolant temps 5 degrees They claim 20.
"Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature"

https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter-coolant-additives

 

water wetter + distilled water is definitely going to be the best at extracting and exchanging heat. I use that combo on my race bikes since it's the best at cooling it down as well as the best for the track if you were to have an accident on track and spill the coolant everywhere.

However, there are zero anti-corrosion agents in water wetter so it's not something you can just fill and leave in there for years and there are no antifreeze properties with that combination either if you live in a place where it freezes and you have water wetter + water in your system. You'll need to change it out regularly, on my race bike, I do it once a season and put regular glycol coolant during the offseason so my aluminum radiator doesn't corrode from the water wetter + water that's sitting in there for months.