348 Clutch Release Bearing

That should be all one piece.

I don't think the bearing is separate.

 

From the looks of it you do not have the factory upgraded unit. You have the cast steel housing which is prone to leaks from the seals as well as the housing is prone to catastrophic failure from cracking. The factory upgraded unit (from what I recall and my own service records) is aluminum, but still no prize. I certainly would not spend money on the factory "upgraded" unit over the aftermarket solution. Anyway, I hope this helps.

 

Hi, I have replaced my clutch bearing seals a few months ago.

I have a 1992 - 348.

You have the old housing. Not the upgraded one. Mine upgraded one, doesn't have a bearing inside. Just the 4 green/blue seals.

Clutch Parts for Ferrari 355 - Superformance

The early 348 and 355 have the old housing, the later 348 and 355 have the upgraded one.

The seals and scraper ring aren't that hard to replace. you can boil them to make them a little bit softer for replacement. Make sure you take a look how the scraper ring is mounted! I forgot how it was mounted.

 

I recently rebuilt mine (also a cast iron one) including fitting a new bearing. I sourced all parts locally after being sent incorrect sized seals from superformance. U will need a new u-seal, quad ring seal and scraper seal. I Also had to have the inner race of the bearing machined out to fit the ring the pushes on the pressure plate springs.

What i have now is a leak free TOB.

 

Ok, sorry to hijack thread. My driving season experimented a hault when my release bearing body cracked. Is it a known problem and is there a good solution to fix it?
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes, a common problem with the old OE components.

Go with replacements from Hill Engineering instead. Best to use both parts.

Here's mine:
.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

This is what I did on my 91 when the TO bearing housing got messed up. I think it was $600 for the whole setup with the new flange and housing w/ bearing. Nice quality stuff and I doubt I'll ever have to worry about it again.

 

Ok, anyone have a guess what causes that lip to break? Or is it just matter of fluid pressure affecting those seals and at somepoint lip breaks? It happened without any warnings and pedal went loose instantly

 

I had this happen last night. Clutch to floor instantly. Looks like the Hill Engineering solution the best. Other options?

 

It does happen, but there's no solution other than to replace it.

 

Hill is a good choice

 

Mike is right. The Hill parts are pieces of art in comparison to the original parts. I replaced the various seals in my factory throw out bearing a few times but the leaks would return. Two or three years ago I installed the Hill parts and have had no issues since. My pumpkin was apart recently to rebuild the flywheel and the Hill parts still looked new.

 

@Berning - We have the Hill release bearings in stock, and you'd have it for the weekend if you ordered tomorrow or Thursday:

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/crb355ms-348-f355-clutch-release-bearing-168594.html

 

Thanks. looks like I need the flange and bearing kit. Correct?

Daniel, I am sure I will be in touch soon. Need to order wheel spacers as well.

 

Not necessarily. Once you have the clutch pumpkin open, you'll know whether your car has the older cast looking bearing, or the newer F355 style fitted. It sounds like your car has a bunch of upgrades/mods, so its definitely worth inspecting before placing an order for potentially incorrect parts. You may simply need the bearing alone.

 

Hi y'all,
I'm in the process of replacing the CRB, with the one I pulled out being dry, rusty, worn and beginning to split. Although my car (recently acquired) is a 1994 Spider ex UK, the gearbox/clutch assembly may be an earlier vintage, and in case relevant, the gearbox numbers I found are:
2135099 (cast proud), 141685 (stamped), and 7011 (cast submerged)

A HE Clutch Release Bearing (CRB348/355 MS #168594) is definitely required. However, I can find no discernable wear on the flange, which is an early style with the centres of the spring holes being 82mm apart, instead of 86mm as per the later style flange. Is there any reason why the spring holes of the existing flange cannot be machined 2mm further away each side (total 4mm), to match the spring hole spacing of the new CRB? There appears to be ample metal available to allow this.

Or are some of the other dimensions (i.e. t/o bearing I.D.?) different, which means the new CRB won't fit on the 82mm flange, even with new spring holes? Look forward to your thoughts!

 

I did it this on my GTB
Kept the original flange
Make the new holes 1mm deeper so the spring stays there

The old CRB can be fitted with new seals and also the bearing is sold by SF
The HE one is the better but most expensive option
If you choose to reuse the old CRB look for the
old thread where they say the Quad ring is the wrong size (Cauff)
I did this in my TS and months later all is good

 

Thanks Frank. I like your suggestion of a 1mm deeper hole to keep the springs in their new positions... I see there is plenty of meat underneath to allow that. The existing CRB is absolutely shot so I'll get a new HE unit, but as I say, the flange appears to be in good order so I'll be re-using that.

 

Thanks Miro... good suggestion! Photo below will explain why it needs a birthday Bearing was dry as a bone, and rattled back and forth by 3mm

Image Unavailable, Please Login