Sump pan nuts leaking oil.

Look up Stat-o-seal washers. This issue has been discussed a LOT here and those washers are the solution.

 

It really does suck to do all that work, and see the pan dripping.

Another tip: be sure you torque the nuts correctly, and in the correct sequence. I'm planning to redo this myself next month or so, and will be adding some sealant as well.

 

I would check the sending unit that screws into the oil pan. Does it have Teflon tape? Check the oil dipstick tube and nut. The shift seal where trans shifter goes thru the pan. I would expect any of those before the pan gasket.

 

Concerning the nuts and studs “leaking”. The studs on my ‘82 308i are blind holes, impossible to leak. The problem is not sealing the gasket correctly. If sealed correctly the fluid would never leak around the studs. I have done this twice. Both times clean dry surfaces and nothing on the gasket, yes dry green gaskets. Evenly torque to spec. Three years and no leaks using mobile 1 synthetic 15w50 the time before same result with valvoline vr1 oil. Just saying......

 

I use McMaster part number 93786A125

 

I dabbed a bit of hylomar blue sealant on the base of the stud at the pan, used new nyloc nuts (and flat washers), and am drip free, before it had dripped alot. The hylomar is not like a regular sealant, it stays soft and can been cleaned off easily with a rag, unlike other sealing compounds.

The statoseals would work, as will a good new dry gasket with the nuts torqued in proper sequence as noted.

 

If oil is getting to the studs then oil will get to the outside edge of the gasket due to poor sealing and mating. The studs are in blind holes (not a through hole to the sump) fix the problem not the symptoms. Just saying. .....

 

+1. Fixed it for me. Note torque sequence below.

 

You mean I am not nuts? I have wiped and wiped and traced and traced and the UV traces "looked as though" the nuts themselves were leaking. IT IS POSSIBLE??!!?? This is the first I have ever heard of leaking nuts.

 

What IS the sequence and what torque lb age to to used on Nuts/seal washers

 

I do from center out in a X. I believe 6-8 torque from memory

 

6.5 ft/lbs, I believe.

 

I was once told that the reason they weep (oil) is because they are sad not to be being driven, and that at operating temperatures, when going fast their smiles mean the weeping stops. I guess there’s an element of truth in that, and in Italian it sounded romantic; but some shops didn’t seem to like having to remove the dipstick etc and the PITA job for the money, especially if it came back a week later!!


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Congrats! Did you use regular flat washers or those sealing ones?

 

Just the regular flat washers. You just have to be meticulous, take one nut off, clean with a rag, dab the hylomar, put on the washer, then the nyloc nut (nice gold zinc ones from Belmetric), and that sealed things completely.

The replacement of the gasket would be the gold standard, but if a bit of labour and sealant on the stud fixes the problem without all the drama of the pans removed, the springs and balls, and other unique features of the Ferrari pans. If I need to go into the transmission for eg. s shift shaft seal replacement, then that's when I will do the new gaskets. Even then, afetr I put a new gasket in place, I would still do the hylomar and nylocs for the belt and suspenders approach.

Just look carefully under there and make sure its not a leak from a weeping oil/transmission drain plug, the shift shaft, or the seal where the CV's go into the transmission, all can make it look like the studs/nuts are leaking.

 

I swore my pans were leaking because there was always oil dripping from the nuts/studs.
Turned out to be the simmer rings where the axles go into the differential.
Replaced those, and now I have no leaks any more.

So see if it’s motor oil or gearbox oil first. If gearbox oil, I’d bet it’s not your pans.



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