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Spark Plugs Question for QV

Discussion in '308/328' started by miketuason, May 12, 2018.

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  1. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #1 miketuason, May 12, 2018
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Time to replace my spark plugs as I t has been eight years, this is what I have been using and seems to work for the past eight yrs until it starting to miss fire when it’s cold. Question is, should I use the same plugs or is there a better one for the QV, and also what is the proper gap for my 84? Last I didn’t set as I was told the gap are preset already.
     
  2. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie
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    #2 thorn, May 12, 2018
    Those are exactly the plugs I installed nearly a year ago, and they've been running great.

    You can gap those plugs, contrary to popular belief, but often you don't need to. If you choose to do so, you must be extremely careful not to put any pressure on the iridium tip.

    Offhand, I cannot remember the factory gap for the older style plugs. The torque procedure is to tighten to 18 lbs, then back off (loosen it), then torque the final to 14 lbs.
     
  3. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #3 StuR, May 12, 2018
    The Q.V. gap is .24-.28 range so it is worth checking that your iridium aren’t preset more in 30-50 bracket.

    If they’ve been in for 8 years, what deteriation have you seen? I assume they, and the wires, have been inspected and the car runs good.

    As long as they meet the OEM heat resistance of N6 GY they will be fine. My notes say torque 18, then back off to 14. At about a fraction of the price you might find the champions run fine and you can change at will:)

    Post a pic of what comes out - consider keeping them (labelled) and swap out next for comparison.


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  4. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #4 miketuason, May 12, 2018
    Thanks Stu! I will post what the old plugs looks later as I haven’t pulled them out yet. Extenders and wire seem the in good condition as far as I can see. Thanks for the gap and torque spec.
     
  5. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #5 StuR, May 12, 2018
    Your welcome, for ref, the current champion replacement is: Plug Type RN8WYPB3; Gap .028. Price point no doubt moved north!!!

    Thorn, apologies, I missed that you’d included the torque specs!

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  6. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie
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    #6 thorn, May 12, 2018
    No worries, I was glad to see you list the gap specs I couldn't remember. :)
     
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  7. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #7 miketuason, May 13, 2018
    I always thought Iridium are best suited for carbs car as carbs are more likely to foul plugs but I used them on my QV anyway.
     
  8. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #8 StuR, May 13, 2018
    Yeah the champion plug recommended is an iridium. Oddly they recommend double copper for the 3.2 /86.

    What is also important is whether your new plugs need anti-seize. Whilst the originals needed it to prevent head damage, some new plugs have revised metal content that prevents seizure and do not work well with a-s as it prevents heat dissipation.


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  9. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #9 miketuason, May 13, 2018
    Is there a big difference between NGK Iridium plugs and Champion Iridium plugs?
     
  10. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #10 StuR, May 13, 2018
    Probably only price point when it comes to our engines. I have used both. My last set were champion, just got a good price.


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  11. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #11 miketuason, May 15, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: May 17, 2018
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    I just ordered the new NGK Laser Iridium plugs which are supposed to be better and specked to last 100k miles. The cross reference number of the regular Iridium of BPR7EIX to the Laser Iridium is IFR7L11 (Stock# 5114) After my online search, I found Summit has the cheapest price.
     
  12. Sean308

    Sean308 Formula Junior

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    #12 Sean308, May 19, 2018
    Whats your technique when taking off the spark plug boots? I have new spark plugs but have not had a chance to change them yet, but read a few posts about taking care when removing boots, any recommendations?


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  13. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #13 StuR, May 19, 2018
    Never had a boot problem, just a pull to remove. On the mondial, the front bank is a bit of a stretch so I assume so for the 308. Not sure if you need :benefit from removing the lid. But I would put a towel/blanket over the side of the car and don’t wear trousers with rivets or a belt buckle - sounds silly, but easy to scratch when reaching over. A small step helps too (but I’m only 172 tall).

    Check your wires when they’re off and look for any cracks on the boots etc. Sure they’ll be fine. Lots of threads here about renovating/replacing cables without the Ftax!




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  14. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    #14 mike996, May 19, 2018
    When replacing, put some silicone grease (sometimes referred to as di-electric grease) in each boot. It will make subsequent removal much easier and also protects against moisture/corrosion. For that matter, use it on every electrical connection from battery terminals to the various plugs/connectors.
     
  15. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #15 miketuason, May 19, 2018
    Also beside checking the plug wires, inspect the extenders as well for pitted marks and burnt holes, I’ve heard this thing commonly happen. As for pulling the wire off, I usually I spray a little wd-40 on the black clips that holds the wire together and slide them off carefully before pulling the wires off the plugs, if they’re stuck, you can break the clips.
     
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  16. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #16 miketuason, May 24, 2018
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Update: finally I just received my Laser Iridium from NGK as the first set they sent was wrong but got it right this time. Anyway a few difference, the new Laser Iridium still has the 14mm thread size but it is now has the smaller hex which is actually better now as, instead of using the big 13/16 spark plug socket, it now require to use the smaller 5/8 (16mm) socket. The pic show that the Laser Iridium has a much sharper Center electrode almost like needle type compare to the regular Iridium type(left) that came out of my QV.
     

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