308 Window Motors and Switches Wiring Diagram

My passenger side electric window is very temperamental. It stopped working last year. Over the winter it magically fixed itself but it's now decided to stop working again...

I've tested the fuses and they are fine.
Does anyone have a clear wiring diagram that I can refer to?

I suspect that the motor itself is fine but there is a loose connection in one of the switches. Tomorrow, I will start poking around with a voltmeter. Although my favourite method is to take a 12v feed direct from the battery and connect it directly to the item (in this case the motor) and see what happens, gradually working back until I find where the problem is.

My biggest question is: Do the switches directly control the power or do they operate a relay of some sort?
An actual pin by pin document on the switches would be really helpful!

Thanks in advance
Andy

 

The following courtesy of another board member who posted the diagrams earlier.
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Thanks very much - that is really useful and will save me a stack of time!

 

Usually the motors/winding gear seize up and the solution is to dismantle, clean and re-lubricate.

 

I pulled the passenger window motor this afternoon and when connected directly to the battery it runs sweetly.

I can turn the winding mechanism with 2 fingers and very little effort, so that's not gummed up - I lubricated it years ago with white lithium grease (I think that's what it was!) so that's doing a good job. Prior to removal, I could wind the glass up and down with the emergency metal handle, so nothing is jammed.

I then cleaned all the connectors and connected the motor to the battery via the leads that would normally connect into the passenger switch. All good.

Next, I will refit the window motor and winding mechanism back in the car and power it up again via the leads again. I suspect that I had a corroded connector and when I put all the switches back in the circuit it will work OK. That's the plan.

 

All was going so well.
But when I did a final test of the motor, it didn't work.
I took the motor to pieces and found that one of the carbon brushes was getting stuck in the retracted position. A sharp tap and it pops out but once pushed back in, it doesn't slide and it gets stuck.
Any suggestions? What can be used to lubricate these brushes, I don't want to put grease on them because it could get on the commutator.
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On second thoughts, the working brush is probably past its sell by date. It's at its full extension and I would guess it's not making great contact with the commutator.
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the other end of the motor off to replace both brushes...

 

Hey Andy, Have you tried replacing the switch with a new one ? Or you can take it apart and clean it. A worn or dirty switch will cause intermittent contact issues.

 

No, I think the switches are probably OK. I was connecting the motor directly to the battery and it was running just fine. But it's now dead as a door-nail.
The brushes not being in contact with the commutator makes sense. The intermittent nature of the problem ties in nicely with my children slamming the door shut and dislodging the brush sometimes when it is stuck.

 

Good find Andy, we use at work a black conductive grease on all our ground points, it's a great conductor and lubricant.
Unless you can find similar replacement bushes off a donor motor may be worth a try.

 

There are plenty of random brushes for sale, I hope to be able to get something close which I can file down to fit.
Using conductive grease makes good sense.
Getting to the brushes will be interesting as the base of the motor casing is soldered on... in for a penny, in for a pound!

 

That's a pain. I think I'd try switch cleaner (servisol) to clean/lubricate.

 

In for a penny, in for a pound.
The boys on Pistonheads assured me that the base of the motor was only held on with sealant/epoxy. Once I removed the gunk, the base practically fell off. I think that if I can get both brushes to slide, there is enough meat on them to not need replacing.
I attach a bunch of photos as they may be a useful reference for someone, one day!

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Missed one - this shows the springs acting on the brushes
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Good day Andy,

Before you reinstall the armature, ensure you clean/polish the armature's commutator. You can do this with some high -grit emery cloth... 2000 or so. Also use a very small knife edge and gently clean the grooves between each commutator copper "tooth" to remove any brush residue, dirt, etc.

Also, regrease the end bushings as well. Remember, any drag (excess friction) on the armature's ability to rotate will result in increase in the drive current which... can create issues with the motor wiring and your fuse blocks.

Cheers,

Sam

 

Hi Sam,
Thanks for this, it confirms that I did it right!
Pictures below of the polished commutator (I used 1200 grit wet & dry) and I cleaned between the segments with a pin.
I used some medium grease on the bearings at each end. I also put a very, very thin smear of copper grease on the sides of the brushes (I know it doesn't conduct, so I kept it to a minimum and well away from the areas that have contact with the commutator)
The re-assembled item is also show below, I am just sealing the joints with some sealant - once that's hardened off it will be job done.
When I put some power through it, it ran really smoothly and I swear faster!


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