F355 R.H./L.H. SIDE ENGINE INJECTION CABLES??

Fist off - where are you located? Is this a U.S. car, or Euro? I think that is the main ECU harness?

 

Sorry - I missed you saying that in the first post. You may wish to update your profile. I'll have a look at the parts diagram latter.

 

What is your ECU part number?

Do you have 3 cat temperature ECUs? USA and Australian cars have 3, so need a special harness. Since USA (LHD) and Australian (RHD) cars have the same harness, it doesn't matter if your car is left or right hand drive. I replaced my Australian car's harness recently. The engine has to come out.

Make sure you have a good wiring diagram and a multimeter to help you attach the plugs to the correct engine components.

5.2 Engine Wiring Diagram

F1 harnesses have an extra wiring branch (and plug) near the ECU plug. Also, there is a resistor hidden in the ECU plug.

 

P.S. (EDIT) F1 harnesses have an extra wiring branch (and plug with 4 pins) near the ECU plug.

Here is my latest F1 wiring diagram for those interested:

5.2 F1 Engine Control Wiring Diagram version 2

Mr. "cvy612hgtc", my new harness had a fault... Some wires were going to the wrong pins on one of the plugs, causing the SD1 tool not to communicate with the ECU. If you have a similar problem, let me know and I'll tell you how I fixed it.

 

Yes, item "2" is the whole (5.2) wiring harness. On 2.7 cars, you have to worry about left and right harnesses, because there are two ECUs and two harnesses.

If you look in the rear right hand corner of the engine compartment (behind the wheel arch, near the secondary air pump), you will either see one or two item "42"

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/355-group/f355-m5-2-1996/air-injection-device.html

USA and Australian cars have two item 42's. One will be mounted vertically, one will be mounted horizontally. One will be attached to the temperature sensor on the right hand main catalytic converter. The other will go to the temperature sensor mounted aft of the exhaust bypass valve. Euro cars will only have one item 42.

 

I have the 170657 because I have a USA/Australian non-F1 car. If you only have one temperature ECU in the right hand rear corner of your car, then 168496 would seem to be the one you want. I assume you haven't got a Challenge car or some other special variation? Your ECU part number may also help identify if you have a USA/Australia type car.

 

That would be my conclusion, too. I'm assuming, of course, your car has the correct ECU (i.e. the assembly number of your car is lower than 26746). I'm not sure about the "ABS"... I thought all 355's had ABS, whether it be Teves or Bosch.

Good luck with the harness change

 

Strange. My harness looked newly made (USA/ABS/non-F1). I just ordered it from Eurospares and they got it from the factory. It took one or two months to arrive.

My previous (wrong) harness was a Euro/ABS/F1 (but higher assembly number than yours), but it was still compatible (apart from missing a bypass valve plug) with my 6 speed gated car. If you could figure out the differences between the harnesses, you may find one that is compatible (with just an extra plug, perhaps, which could be capped and tied back). The ECU pins appear to have common functions. Pins for the F1 system are simply not used on the gated car's ECU. The only things I would worry about would be the brake system ("ABS") and the anti-pollution gear.

Restoration is also a good option (and probably cheaper). It's only a matter of replacing wires. Colour is not really an issue because you can't see many of the wire colours anyway. Large sections of plastic sheathing may have to be replaced, however. Depending on the number of wires damaged and the location of the damage, you could simply insert splices and re-wrap the harness with silicone self-fusing tape.

Some FChatters have inserted disconnects in the wiring to make it easier for engine-outs.

 

The Ecu plug is readily available. I purchased mine from NZ. For a break out box. If the harness is out of the car and you have a quality continuity meter you will soon find broken wires. And as Ian stated just replace the broken section and re wrap.

 

How many wires do you think are damaged? Is there damage only in the area you have circled in your photo?

If there are only a few wires broken, then you could use those handy waterproof butt splices or "solder sleeves" or whatever they are called. They are used in commercial aviation in some areas.



Plenty on eBay

 

I haven’t seen anywhere here that you verify what market your car was built for. Obviously the easiest way is the 8th digit of the VIN. Here’s a screenshot from redhead.com, tell us what market the car is from and no one has to guess.

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