epoxy paint garage floor OR plastic tile system??

I did Wolverine epoxy 6-7 years ago and it’s holding up really well. Did it myself. Pretty easy but a couple errors on my part on the final top coat - rolled too fast in a couple places and bubbles didn’t go away. Went with a solid gray color. Overall very pleased with it.

 

Yes, that’s what I resort to when I drop small, non-ferrous objects.


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http://www.vaultgarage.com/news/porcelain-tile-the-ideal-surface-for-garage-flooring/

 

I had a Pro do my epoxy floors, and couldn’t be happier with the results. They used a large grinder to grind down the concrete and stem walls. They said to keep the cars off for 48 hours after they completed, but it was a pretty painless install otherwise. It is very easy to clean, using a wet mop with warm water.

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Here’s an epoxy floor with a topcoat to delay yellowing.

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Damn, that floor is really nice. But why do you have the lift so low to the ground in that photo?

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login I forget now what we were doing then, Stuart, but it was convenient to have the lift at the low setting at the time. We probably needed to access the top of the motor at the same tone. Having said that, the lift is a special one for home garages, so, at full lift, one can’t stand below. I don’t mind sitting though.

The white floor lights up the underneath considerably.

Andres

 

Cheers Andres.

Do you remember the brand names of the materials your guy used for the floor? I'm currently in the design phase of updating my garage with a vaulted ceiling, a 4 post lift and new cabinets and floors, and I'd love it to come out as nice as yours did. Is the floor slippery when it gets wet?

 

I used military clear coat with anti-slip additive from armorpoxy. Very effective and not abrasive.

 

I’m afraid I live in Manila, Stuart, and the paint was put together by a local supplier. The floor can get slippery when wet (I don’t wash cars in the workshop), so Sandreb’s clear coat might be the solution. (Note that epoxy clear coats over a white base sometimes give a yellow hue.)

 

Cheers, thanks everyone.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Prestige flooring with epoxy with tri-fleck color. Very happy with the result. 2 years no issues so far...

 

There is a trade off with how grippy your floor is, and how easy it is to clean. When we do floors, we only add the non-slip additive ( aluminum oxide) when the people are very old and safety is a concern. We're doing a wheelchair ramp currently for someone, where they want the ramp to match the floor, and not use the black grip tape. With the flake, you can leave it more textured, by not scraping it down so aggressively ( or worse, sanding the flake smooth). Many companies do this so the floor is super smooth, but it only benefits the company as they use less topcoat. The topcoat is the expensive chemical. Before getting the non slip stuff put down, get a sample and feel it. or better yet see a floor in person. You might not be happy.

 

That's good to know, Shawn.

 

I suppose, going back to the original topic of this thread, that the only advantages of a plastic tile floor are that it is easiest to install, requires little surface preparation, and is the cheapest option, compared to epoxy or ceramic tile. It doesn't look good close-up, as noted above. One will spill water and nasty stuff like hydraulic fluid and oil on it, as I did in this photo. How does one get the underneath clean? With much difficulty, as a member also noted above.

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My painted floor cleaned up vey easily. My sneakers didn't do too as well, unfortunately.

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Agreed. I used the same on my last two garages. Same color as this photo for my first one. Cleans most stains with just water and a broom.


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Looks like a great choice of products, thank you for this, have asked for a sample. I find epoxy dangerously slippery when even a bit of water gets on it, even with grit anti slip additives.

 

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Does anyone have any experience with Epoxy-Coat? I'm thinking of using their "Super Rejection" kit, includes a base coat, 100% flake, clear coat and polyurethane top coat.

 

Its a decent product, The success of the final product will depend on the preparation. Grinding the floor will ensure its good. Acid washing isnt.

I also dont know the quantity of material in the kit, but you want to put it down at about 150 Sq Ft/ Gallon. So on a typical 2 car garage ( 400 Sq feet) you'll need 3gallons. Some will go to waste, some will be absorbed in the roller, some will stay in the mixing bucket, so its best to plan material at 135-140/ Sq Ft per gallon. With the flake done to rejection - thats how a flake floor should be in my opinion- makes the top coat get even less coverage. We find that we get about 100-120 Sq feet/ Gallon. I'm happy to offer any advice when you're preparing the floor, or doing the chemical. Its fun and rewarding. but also easy to screw up!

 

I’m not a pro, but in the past I had great success with 100% solids epoxy kits from Garage Flooring LLC. Only issue was my coverage was typically less than they stated it would be, so buy extra. For prep I did an acid wash. Entire process took about a week with dry times and coats (acid wash, primer, 2 coats epoxy, 1 coat aliphatic Urethane top coat, 3 days final cure time)

For my present 1000sqft garage I tried the polyurea coating and I much prefer it. Though you need help or have to work really fast to get the flakes down before it dries, I was able to do the garage in 2 days, started on Friday night and parked cars on it Sunday night. A big help was grinding the floor instead of the acid wash which took a few days for the concrete to dry out. The grinding was so easy, rented a walk behind grinder from home depot, attached my shop vac to it and went to town. Floor was prepped in a matter of a couple hours.


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