Flushing F1 Fluid on 430?

Let me see if I could answer your questions

All depends how complete you want to flush the system - not bleed

If you know there is no air ( no known shifting issues etc) in the system a complete bleed is usually not necessary

In terms of flushing - there are various degrees you can do

You can just suck all the fluid out of reservoir behind panel and replace with new fluid - do this a few times with some driving in between

You can bleed from top bleed screw that go to e-diff on block near tank - this will flush tank and actuator - the system will have pressure it so just open and close keeping fluid topped off - you can put some extra fluid in before starting so you don't low

you can do a total flush and bleed if you do the bleed in the manual for clutch , actuator and e-diff

I don't think the x431 does a e-diff bleed - but it does have clutch and actuator bleed

Be aware to bleed the actuator you will have to remove it (leaving lines on ) and loosen screws - I think the cat may have to come off on a f430

Choose which level you want to perform - considering how long it has been since it was done and if you are having any issues with shifting, jumping to neutral, long running , freq running of pump

Hope this helps

 

The idea of flushing the actuator is that once you put new fluid in tank by flushing it from the clutch is to work the new fluid into the actuator and bleed any air. Yes the fluid, with screws open, will flow back to tank but new fluid will be in the different cambers of actuator and any air will be pushed out. Then the tank would be flushed again you bleed the e-diff ... not 100% every drop but pretty close. The only way to get every last drop is to disconnect items and drain fluid completely and then do a full and bleed ... i would not recommend this since you are asking for trouble especially that you are not having issues

I would do the clutch bleed , then the block near tank ( top) that goes to quick disconnects to ediff ( since you cann't bleed e-diff with x431 ( please check that)) and if you want / need bleed actuator in between the those 2 steps.

I had a typo above which I cannot edit now - this "You can bleed from top bleed screw that go to e-diff on block near tank - this will flush tank and actuator" shoud have said You can bleed from top bleed screw that go to e-diff on block near tank - this will flush tank and accumulator"

Do you know what type of fluid is in there now - any record of someone changing it - what color is it - clear/green/red

Tutela I believe is clear, CHF is greenish

If it is Red ( most likely factor fill or changed with same product) - I had done quite a bit of research and found that Mobil 1 sync ATF seem to be a good sub for the Shell product ( close to/same specs)

All that aside with engine off for a while ( over night) .. after taking panel off on right side .. open tank I think you can get a fair amount of liquid out - try that first since it is easy

If you are up to it ...bleeding/ getting new fluid into actuator is probably one of the most important things to have done if never done since it is a dead end and the actuator puts stress on fluid

Was the fluid ever flushed / bled since new?

 

Ferrari finally figured out the F1 fluid should be changed, system bled, leak check done, and self-test performed every 3 years. Never made it into the F430 maintenance schedule, but here it is in the 599 schedule from 2007 onwards. If anything, the F1 fluid sees much rougher duty in the hot spaces of the F430 than it does in the 599.


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Would be nice if you could write a summary in this thread when you have completed the fluid change.
I'm about to do the same later this year and I also have an x431 Pro.

 

Is the fluid clean in the pot ? My dealer says to leave well alone if working ok

 

Terry

I would be curious of how the WSM says to flush and bleed the 599 ..any way you can post those few pages ?

Thanks Dominick

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Dominick- Will take me a while to unlock the WSM. Probably not for a couple of days.

 

Thanks appreciate it

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Gentlemen,

Lots of excellent advice mentioned above: I recently performed a annual fluid change of all fluids in my F430...I was strongly advised by a factory trained Ferrari tech to not bleed the system if: like mentioned above your shifts are free from errors and no warning messages displayed instead remove old fluid from reservoir [should be very red in color] and replenish with new...perform this a few times and your good to go....This worked for me...and I have the Launch X431 pro.
Good Luck..!!

 

I change out half the fluid every year and do the complete change every 3 years. Not too sure I would trust a mechanic who says to leave F1 fluid in for extended periods of time. Do they say the same thing for brake fluid or power steering fluid?

 

It is never acceptable to leave hard working fluids in for extended periods of time not limited to brake and power steering, I believe the point here is from the professional perspective based on experience if your F1 system is working perfectly and your fluid is fresh red in color it’s safe to say it has not been subjected to overheating removing the fluid from the resevouir once or twice per service is perfectly acceptable....once a year like you mention and complete flush every three years would not be a bad idea..

 

Did anybody end up using the x431 pro to properly flush the F1 fluid? I’d feel much better replacing a large amount of fluid in one go rather than 20% at a time. It would take an exponential amount of 20% changes to replace a good portion of the fluid and much more time wasted IMO.

 

You can take nearly 50% of the total fluid out of the tank without introducing air into the system. Does not answer your question on the x431 pro since my techs use AutoEnginuity to do the full fluid change and bleed. That is a bit more expensive.

 

for your information, here's my fact.

I did not replace my f1 fluid in my 360 challenge in about 6 years already. And it still shifts ok.

LOL

 

So you can get 1L out of the reservoir? Am I correct that the top bleeder near reservoir and the bleeder near the E-diff are the only two needed to operate in order to exchange the fluid?

 

24000, yup and there are folks running around that have not changed their oil in 6 years, too. Proves nothing except you have been lucky.

348, forgot about the F430 E-Diff holding more fluid. You can get about 1/2 liter out of the tank. For F1 Ferraris without E-Diff, that is about half.

 

Thanks for the info taz. One last one, anything wrong with just turning pump on with launch software (or whatever software one chooses) and bleeding the system through the highest bleeder next to reservoir while adding new fluid into reservoir to keep it from running empty?

I also plan on pressurizing system to 52 bar then cycling 12 volts to the e diff solenoid until there is no pressure in system after flush is complete.

24000, there are many more reasons to flush the F1 system fluid than not. It apparently gets contaminated over time and there are plenty of very tight tolerance mechanical parts that can get damaged. I’m using Stef’s advice and using Liquid Moly Central Hydraulic lubricant instead of what factory used. He brought up what I believe to be good points why this is a good idea and possibly the best lubricant specifically for our F1 systems.

 

348- Juri made a separate pump to pressurize the system so it could be bled without a diagnostic tool. My techs used that way back when until I bought them AutoEnginuity.

One of the pros is a better candidate to answer your question on your bleed technique. I still use Tutela CS Speed, now by Petronas, in mine. It was designed for Selespeed applications. Hard to find and $50/liter, but when I do find it, I pick up a few bottles. Has worked well for the nearly 12 years I have been using it.

 

On my 2008, you will only get approx 100ml from the reservoir. There is a plastic plate internally and almost impossible to remove any fluid below the plate.

 

Look here ..I think you will have all your answers .. look around post 24

The x431 will not allow you to bleed the e-diff .. you will need a controlled power source ...but read this post and let me know if you have any questions

I made comments on the thread

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Thanks, read that whole thread. I changed the system fluid by opening the upper bleeder near the reservoir. Am I missing any fluid in the Hydraulic system? My understanding is if bleeding out air then it goes Diff bleeder, bleeder 2 then bleeder 1 as mentioned in the linked thread. Finally the actuator is bleed.

But if your just changing fluid then shouldn’t using the single bleeder near the reservoir completely flush the system?

 

The only dead end line is the clutch line so.. if you flush that and that bleed nipples that was discuss in thread you will get most of the fluid out and the remaining ( in actuator and in ediff) will get mixed in with normally driving

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