My new F430 and its mods ....

The inner handle switch has a metal actuator lever and the outer handle switch does not. If you need to replace the one in the outer handle, just look for a similar switch without the lever. They are available. On some switches, you can just remove the metal lever.

 

No problem thank you do you have a link or a name for where you purchased the switch ?

 

thats a beautiful eng bay

 

Which switch are you looking to replace?

 

I figure I might as well replace the inner swith and the outer switch considering I will already be in the general area of both with the door panel off

 

Look for Cherry DC1C-C3LB for the inner handle and DC1C-C3AA for the outer handle.

If you can’t find those, I have alternates somewhere in my files.

What problem are you trying to solve? What are the symptoms?

 

Battery goes flat after three or four days without trickle charger.......dome light only works in on position won't shout of with the door jam switch when depressed also the passenger door window drops down after the closing the door the closes but goes back down again for like 30seconds before raising up to the proper position

 

What model and year is your car?

Does the red safety light in the outer door edge go off when you press in the door jamb switch on the driver and passenger sides?

Do your window power buttons stay permanently illuminated after you close the door?

 

2007 f430

 

truthfully need to look tonight when i get home to see if the switches stay on....the red light does not go off with the door jam switch.......and the door jamb switches are brand new replaced them both

 

Just checked and my window switches stayed illuminated after I closed the door and the red light in the door jamb did not illuminate when I opened the door

 

It’s interesting that the safety lights are not coming on when the doors are opened. Those lights are turned on by a very simple circuit controlled by the respective door jamb switches. It would be unusual for both of them to go bad, so the problem may be a blown fuse (PSF 15).

You said you replaced both of those door jamb switches before, but I want to make sure we are talking about the same switches. The switches I am talking about are called pillar switches in the Ricambi parts diagram and sit in the A-pillars between the door hinges. Since that part is listed as unavailable, I am curious where you were able to get two new ones.

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Yes sir those are the switches I replaced on both sides.....I will check fuse psf 15 I'm assuming it would be located in the fuse box behind the passenger side seat ?

 

That's what the owner's manual indicates.

I am still curious why you replaced those switches. Were the old ones bad?

 

There were none when I received the car figured this out after dome light wouldn't turn on when the door was opened so I replaced them both ...the warning lights I replaced the bulbs and they have worked when the car I started on when I tried them yesterday the car was not turned on ..don't know what role that plays will try tonight with the car turned on ..

 

The key does not need to be in the ignition, the red door light should turn on anytime the door is opened. That's how it works in the 360.

I would check that fuse, it also controls the dome light, the glove compartment light and the parking lights..

 

That makes all the sense in the world

 

So I will try that and then change the inner and outer micro switch and see if I have any success fixing all the issues ....I'll keep you posted

 

That’s fine, but if it were my car, I would focus on solving the red light problem before tackling the window issues.

BTW, the door handle switches can be tested without removal. Just raise the door handle slightly until the window drops down. Once you let go of the handle, the window should go back up in about 15-20 seconds.

Do this with the inner and outer handles on both doors.

If all four handles make the windows behave like that, the door handle microswitches are probably OK.

 

Ok perfect I will definitely address the red lights first and then check out the micrswitches once I have that solved ....I'll keep you posted....you having an amazing mind for these cars my friend I will let you know how I make out

 

So update ...I located psf 15 fuse and changed it ...and what do you know dome light works and glove box lights as well as parking lights however dome light only works in the on position does not come on when the door is opened and vice versa.....warning lights in the door now works as well....as for the window microswitch ....I performed the test you suggested and both windows went up withing 15 seconds except when I exit the passenger side and close the door the window goes up drops down after 2 seconds then back up in like 10-15 seconds and the window switches stay illuminated
What to do now?could it still be the switch

 

Troubleshooting window problems gets a bit more complicated, but there are a couple of simple things you can try first.

Make sure both your internal lock switches in the door handles work and lock the car.

Do the same with the outside keylock switch (or switches, if you have outside locks in both doors).

Do a reset on the passenger window. Hold the up window button until the window goes all the way up and keep pressing the button for a couple of more seconds. Do the same with the down button and hold it for a few seconds after the window bottoms. Repeat 2-3 times.

If neither of these steps fix the problem, it’s time to take off the door panel.

Examine the internal handle switch to make sure it’s not loose or misaligned and that the door handle clicks it on and off.

Unplug the switch from the connector on the back of the door panel and check the operation with an ohmeter.

With the inner switch still unplugged, open and close the door from the outside. If this fixes the window problem, the issue is with the inner switch.

If it does not fix it, plug the inner switch back in and do the same checks with the outer switch. Unplug it and check the operation with an ohmeter while opening and closing the door using the inside handle.

Again, if the window starts behaving normally with the outer switch unplugged, you know where the problem is.

If none of this works, there are more troubleshooting steps you can take, but those get even more involved, so I would go through the above procedures first.

 

Ok thank you ..........I will execute this tommorow and let you know how I make out

 

update... so i changed both inner an outer micro switches and the window switches are still illuminated also the window dropping after closing and the rising eventually still happens door panel is still off so i can troubleshoot more there if neccessary

 

That’s a bummer, but don’t give up.

Did you replace both switches because they tested bad using the procedures I outlined in my last post? That would be good to know, because it’s difficult to troubleshoot something over the internet without seeing the step by step results.

It appears that the window ECU believes you trying to open the passenger door even after you close it. That typically points to the door handle switches, but since you know those are good, the problem seems to be elsewhere.

If you are up to it, you can try this:

1) Put the car on a trickle charger/maintainer for all your testing. Since the window switch lights have been flattening your battery, it may have been weakened. With a voltmeter, confirm you have 13+ volts with the maintainer plugged in.

2) Open the trunk and turn off the battery switch. After 30 minutes, turn it back on. This will reset the window ECU.

3) Open the passenger door. The window should drop half an inch and stay dropped.

4) With the door still open, unplug both the inner and outer door handle switches at the connectors.

5) Using a screwdriver, flip the catch in door lock mechanism to simulate the door being closed.

6) As soon as you flip the latch, the window should go back up and stay up.

7) Post your findings.