My Testarossa DIY thread

I have gone through elecric shematics and try to figure out what hapend. Everything is now exactly original, with original tachometric relay and with original Marelli ignition modules that came with the car. Some last owner tought car had ignition issue rather then fuel ingection balance issue, so all back.

Everything works just like it should, for example; drove this Testarossa today 100km's.

Fuel pump relays are removed out from original fusebox and board connections are darken, but I have seen much worse.
I just have to drive car more to found what was wrong, but I suspect left ignition module signals tachometric relay and module burned, this caused relay to tilt and somehow it returned to normal function after it got ignition signal from good working module.
Same relays and modules are used in Fiat Uno Turbo's and I heard it is "standard procedure to tap tachometric relay to get fuel pumps runing and with Fiat's this tilting relays is common.
Now I have new module, new relay and both new sensors in car constantly so I have parts. Also I made straight wire ready, dirrectly fuelpump terminals so I can connect wire dirrectly to battery (20amp fuse between secures it) This also feeds power back to fuel regulator and temperature sensor, so fuel system works normaly if needed, so called "to get home" -mode

 

Att side of the road, I came to conclusion that there must be issue with main power suply, that is why made jump wire.
After I tought same, that you could make jump wire instead for fuelpump relays, but that wil go thourgh fusebox and if it is lost; dirrect wire to fuel pumps will get you home.
Car had stupid alarm and after I removed plastic bag full of wires and got everything working (like windows, door locks and all external light) it left some holes and that was easy task route nice hidden wire to battery.

 

One thing led to an other and I had to take Testarossa over 512BB, to drive Denmark ie. 1700km's, but last time I had it on lift found that right rear wheel bearing had to be changed, too much play.
So evening before I changed it, but didn't have tool (44mm ringnut tool) and seals, so had to make tool and use old seals.
I always use heat and cold to extract bearings.
I used press to insert bearings again.
Got it all togeether in same day I started trip.

Also used similar sealing that is used with diff side and correctly torque that nut for 220Nm. Factory only used lots of glue for splines.

For the trip I took compleat ignition system and other parts, but had almost zero issues. (next reply will continue)
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First issue was heat!
+28 celsius heat and 6 hours of drive caused fuel pumps to make huge noise, already bought extra pump from roadside store, but found that both pumps make similar noise that quickly faided while car was stadind still.
Later found that Bosch 044 fuel pumps do start to make noise when they get hot, nothing wrong with them, they just do! Now with cool +15 celsius Finnish summer they are silent again.

Also found that oil temperature gauge is working and got oil temperature to 80 decrees, but didn't get oil cooler fans to start.


More serius issue was that I seemed to lost left light pod lift.
When I got to home, found issue; Factory, or sub constructor, had only used three copper wires to grimp left side tokether with right side, that also explain why left side was always little slow to pop up, now they work simultaniusly.
Almost went for fusebox change, but still going with original.
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Yes, That bearing for 512TR/M similar for Toyota wheel bearings from same era.
Early cars, like mine also got that lighter suspension wishbones, with 5 bolt wheel also came diffrent desing.

That picture is showing that inner bearing has to come out this way. I just used extractor that pulls from both races simultaniusly, puller has ball ends. (bearings where intact)
Bearing is not very tight, so you do not need press to remove bearings, but to insert you need one.
Wheel axle is hold with ring nut, where you need special tool; I made one in horry, but it hold 220Nm's.

I used *** bearings:
62207-A-2RSR
62209-A-2RSR
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I suspected that earlier ignition module burn was caused by spark plug wire going bad and I did find that number 11 wire did not get any resistance reading, 12 cylinder got 18k ohm, all other wires where ok.
Car came with old part and original spurk plug wire set was there, so I made new set. I notice that original set had also bad 11 and 12 and others were not so bad.

New set in and last time it was serviced they did not insert cork gasket, usual mistake hardly any service remember to use one, so I have them in stock.
Since I have all kind of distributor caps on table I did notice something that was new me;
All Ferrari Marelli distributors have same footprint for distributor caps;
-250 single distributor
-250 twin distributor
-400
-BB
-Testarossa
-308/328
All have same gasket.
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Coils; before and after -picture
Had something else to plast in plaster cabinet, so desided to clean coils from Testarossa. Ignitionmodule is critical with heat transfear grease and even so with glue that keeps grease under module, mess was due to fact I used 20t press to extract last drop from sealant tube, handy tool by it self...
These are btw early Testarossa coils.
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Getting those small fixes done continued with change of broken front light. We have year inspection here in Europe every year and they usually point things like broken light, but for some reason they did not notice this one.
Got new light, sandplasted parts and repainted them.

Also "corrected" desing "flaw" Testarossa has light surrounds painted body color, but I really like older car black facia, so painted them black with rubber paint, so it can be removed.

I oiled bods to prevent rust in bodyparts, they are like new condition, but will hold better to future.
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When I bought this car, it had empty fan speed regualtor case inside clove box... And fan speed adjusting was not working.

Of cource issue was with transistor, but fan speed would only work:
1) Half speed
2) Full speed (by-passing adjustment)

Because my car is early "flying-mirror" car, it has diffrent part than later cars and it is NLA -part. So solution from previus owner for fixing wrong part was to buy Mondial part that would not work and correct working part was lost.
For my luck, sad to say, early single mirror car was crashed in London some time ago and from that car I got correct part that worked, so now I got fully working AC.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/496685-flying-mirror-rhd-crashed-london-last-night.html


(btw I have extra speed regulator for Mondial, virtually unused)

In picture:
-Empty fan speed regulator case
-Mondial fan speed regulator
-Used early Testarossa part
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Heater is leaking, I can smell it, so everything out...

Allready got gauges out, easy to bolt out.
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You remove screws under clovebox,
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under there is bolts for dash itself.
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Over center console, there is more. These are not needed to remove, they hold aluminium bar attached to dash itself.
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Behind gauges there are also bolts, middle one is to remove.
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Next unbolt aluminium bar from ends, you find these behind speakers.
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Then it's just pull dash out. I made mistake here to keep aluminium bar seperate from dash, but either way works, with or without.
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Upper dash is glued to chassi from factory, it does not need to come out for heater element, but since I also need to redone upholstery, out it comes.

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...And there you can see HVAC stuff. This point you will be draining all coolant out from car, don't worry there will be mess anyway. Center console needs to come out, it is easy to remove and you need to get vacuum lines out with HVAC unit.
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AC line is unbolted from front compartment (odd red wire is my "to get home" line, it dirrectly feeds fuel pumps and ignition if everything fails.)
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Next is to unbolt HAVC box itself, only two bolts up and couple more under it.
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Coolant lines and AC lines are on right side, I draind them like this, because there is couple liters coolant in heater core. you can vacuum drain them out, if you like. AC lines remaining is under black insulation.
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AC line was tight, I needed to use lubricant and heat, but hammer to wrench ulmately did the trick. I don't know if there should be o-ring between here, but this car did not have one.
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HVAC unit out, you can see back base of fusebox. note that only steeringwheel needs to come out, no need to remove column.
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Next is to drain coolant from core and start to dismantle unit itself.
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You start by removing side vents. These vents are one controlled by that odd LED bar system on center console. (in my opinion this fancy electric controll is not needed)
left side
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Right side
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Electrics under HVAC are good to take pictures before taking them out,
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Just unscrew them. BUT re attach zink shield, so you do not brake sensor in center
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Unclip and unscrew outer half like this:
(Note to your self what vacuum line goes where)
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Not a big leak, but it is a leak anyway.
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To remove heater core you need to drill out rivets.
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These couple of screws also.
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Now you can take drain part put, these are brittle plastic, so take it easy.
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Next there are little screws around two halfs, un do them and one bigger screw to motor you can see both cores.
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AC and heater core are not attached anyway to box around them, you just fiddle them out.
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and there it is, one leaking heater core.
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Thanks,
But I think there are one of these cans of worms for everyone. this is 1986 car and I know one car that is few months later, that also had heater leaking, so they are coming out, watch out!
This continues when new core arives.

 

Engine coming out.
Welded simple support to and bolted them lift table.
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Unbolted all kind of things and spilled all fluids out.
You could remove engine out with exhaust, might even do it like that next time.
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And next to start unbolting cam belt.
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Altenator and compressor removed, belt cover open.
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Interesting parts are tensioner bearings;
I did not drive car last year, because cold start I heard ticking sound from tensioner bearings ( and I had to remove engine from my Lamborghini Diablo and did not have time to take engine out from Testarossa.)
Last service was done by last owner in independent F-car service and I bought car straight after that 03.2015.
So this car got few thousand kilometers and three years of use (did not drive this car last year) and my question is; are Ferrari tensioner bearing bad quality or did they not change bearings last time, what is your opinion?
Both of them look like this and making ticking sound in cold start.
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