My new F430 and its mods ....

They didn't t test bad but seeing it's a common problem I replaced them as a preventative measure anyway.........I will try the recommendation s you made and see if that works....I'll keep you posted also noticed the door with the window problem power winder switch feels significantly different that the other switch I'm contemplating replacing the switch as well the window problem could be a sign of the switch going bad I think

 

That switch could be going bad, but I don't think it's causing this problem. To confirm it, just unplug the switch and see if it makes any difference.

 

Update.....so I disconnected the battery the window stayed down as expected.......unplugged the switches and then flipped the catch simulating the door being closed and the window did the same thing!lol it went up then back down immediately then back up again in a few seconds

 

Also used contact cleaner on the plegs to see if that might have changed anything and it did not

 

Update ......unplugged power window switch window did the same thing ....unplugged both just for the hell of it ....window did the same thing

 

mello said: ↑
I decided to do something about the misbehaving driver-side window up/down operation when pulling on the exterior handle. It only works about 5% of the time and it’s been driving me crazy the past few years. I remove the door card and start probing as to where all the micro switches are located. I found that the micro switch that senses the window up/down position is not detecting the window state reliably. When in the up position, the micro switch should be infinity, the down position should be zero ohm. Currently, when the window is up, it is zero ohm and infinity if I tap on the micro switch mounting bracket.

It’s easy to make the adjustments once you see how the micro switch interact with the window regulator mechanism. I made the adjustment and slap everything back together thinking that I’ve finally licked the problem.

Well, no joy. So the obvious next step is to replace the windows ECU. I don’t have to tell you how much that part will cost ... I’m thinking, “What the heck, let’s open this baby up and see if anything is amiss. I have nothing to lose”. At first glance, no burned components, which is a good sign. Since I don’t have a schematic, it’s troubleshooting in the blind. I power up the FLIR camera and took a picture of the circuit board while all the electrical connectors are hooked up. Jackpot! I spotted an IC chip running hot, and this is with the ignition key off! In other words, the window ECU is draining the battery as car is just sitting there! That explains why sometime the battery is drained dead when I forget to plug in the charger overnight.

I sourced a new part from Mouser.com and replaced the defective IC. So far, after testing it about 50 times at random time of the day, the window rolls up and down as expected. If you find that your battery is draining overnight unexpectedly and you have a misbehaving window, this might just be the ticket to a permanent fix. The pictures are self-explanatory, but feel free to ask questions!

WARNING: do not put your hands inside the window regulator and troubleshoot while the car battery is connected! How the windows behaves is unknown when the ECU is in a fault state. The window might roll unexpectedly up or down depending on which micro switch is defective and activated or inactivated. You might lose a limb or several digits. I disconnect the inter-door electrical connector before reaching in there and reconnect it to test the adjustments.

Ferrari: 2003 360 Spider
Part source: Mouser.com
Part Manufacturer and ID: ST-Microelectronic, general purpose OP-AMP LM2904
Window ECU: 185888

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CHECK THIS OUT I THINK ITS THE WINDOW ECU JUST NOT SURE WHERE TO FIND IT IN THE DOOR

 

Good work. I think you have definitively eliminated the door handle switches as a cause of the problem.

There are four more microswitches inside the door. The first one is the window position switch that sets the drop limit. That one seems to work because your window does drop down.

The second switch is in door lock mechanism. That one seems to work because the window does go back up after the door is closed.

Switches three and four are the two door lock switches. I am going to assume they both work because you didn’t say you couldn’t lock the car from the inside and outside.

So assuming the door is in the clear, that leaves the wiring downstream from the door, the window ECU and the internal lights timer.

The timer controls the dome light, the window switches illumination, and the trunk light. Since your dome light also doesn’t work, the timer is a good candidate for beings defective. Check if your trunk light turns on when the trunk is opened and turns off after 15 minutes. Although I am not sure how a malfunction in the timer would affect the window operation, I would still leave it unplugged to see if it makes any difference.

Next step would be to check the connectors. There is a multipin connector in the door edge. It needs to be opened and checked for corrosion or bent pins and sprayed with Deoxit.

The window ECU has three connectors, the timer has one connector. Again, I would check them and spray with Deoxit.

That’s about it. If none of that works, it may come down to the window ECU being bad. Unless you have a handy spare, I would take the above steps first before replacing it.

The last option would be to take the car for an SD3 readout if you have that alternative available.

 

In the 360, it's up under the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel. I think it's the same in the 430.

 

Awesome well I will troubleshoot later when I get home and let you know how I make out

 

where can i find the window ecu and timer ? where are they located in the door ?

 

sorry didnt see the prior quote so window ecu is under driver side what about the time ?

 

Check out this thread for location info.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f430-spider-dome-light-timer-location.585111/#post-146211371