76 GT4 That's been sitting 2 years, Carbs are the big concern

all the carb parts are available from Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy, California. i bought my synchrometer off amazon and it came in two days.

 

I think that you’re anticipating a problem that you may or may not have.

Puts some fuel in and see what happens.

You may have a set of entirely different problems!

Matt

 

Mine's sat longer than 2 years, but I'm on the same page as your friend in tearing down the carbs and rebuilding IF it's started and the timing is terrible and we have blatant issues.

I'd try to sympathetically get it running after making checks to ensure you won't have any fires based on leaks, and just go slow. Nothing should be frozen in only 2 years, but you never know.

You can also send the carbs out for a full rebuild at shops (maybe local to you, or may require shipping etc).

 

I would be more concerned about the age and condition of the fuel lines than the carbs themselves on first start up. Carb rebuild kits and synchrometers can also be found on eBay.

 

Good point. Does anyone sell a "full" fuel line/s replacement kit?

 

Fairly sure way back the various fuel line sizes and lengths were posted (possibly as a word doc) but cannot recall if GTB/S or GT4 - maybe both

Try useful technical threads for starters

 

Scuderia Rampante in Colorado has top-shelf fuel & cooling hose replacement kits. Not cheap, but excellent quality.
(insert "scuderia rampante" with no blank space where the asterisks are below)

http://****************.com/sri-fluid-management/

 

Why does the forum censor that link/phrase?

 

Neither is ibm.com , but that link shows up.

 

I would suspect the pump is electrically functional but shot inside the impeller side, you should have four to five PSI at the entry lines to the four carbs.

Lots of reasons to me, not to break the carbs open, the bearings can be replaced with "better sealing ones" and so forth, but resealing them can go wrong.
I would focus on new fuel lines, and see how the electricals act.

The distributor weights are supposed to be periodically greased.
So it would not be surprising to have them stick and not advance properly...from idle

But running on the prime shot indicates he is not getting fuel pressure from the electric pump.
Common failure pattern really.....although the electric motor can go south and melt the fuse holder too.

 

As to the censoring, it goes back a long way, but our Sponsor Ricambi sells the fuel line kits, that Dave researched and assembled when the ethanol problems first arose....

Get them there, or as noted the rubber lines are now formulated to be far more tolerant of the additives, so Goodyear from NAPA is also fine, IMO
If you see the outer cloth braid on anything that's an old line and should be trashed.


If handling fuel pressure, vapor lines I suppose are not so critical, but anything handling fuel pressure, there are vent lines on the fire wall between tanks that are vent.s.
Don't forget the very dangerous large coupling in the filler neck...