355F1 360 pump update some great info $$$

It would be fantastic if some of the tech whizzes could develop this and supply to all us f1 owners. I would happily pay for a reasonably priced pump upgrade that is an easy fit!

 

+355F1

 

That would be great. Better photos would be a great help.

Thanks

 

Post some more photos as this is something I want to look into as well.

Also if the springs in the 360 pump break what's the replacement part number people have been using?
Seems they should be changed right upon install.

 

I need to find that. It is an oblong shaped spring. I'll get measurements, etc this weekend.
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Hi All.

I’m about to do this upgrade (replace the 355F1 pump with a 360 pump) and would like to know what the latest thinking on this is.
I see there is a kit available from Ricambi but they still mention having to fabricate a bracket or something.
I’m struggling to find anything on the Hill Engineering site about it.

Is there a comprehensive list of what to buy and some step by step instructions that I can pass on to my mechanic to make the job as painless (and non-expensive) as possible?

Thanks.

 

Why do yo need to replace the pump? Lots of blinks to prime? Cycling too much? Unless it is dead, You might consider swapping out the accumulator. That is largely what causes the pump to run all the time.

Dave / Juri are working on a drop in pump that fits into the current housing eliminating the need for the external 360 pump.

The external 360 pump swap is not too bad and some posts on this forum have the steps.

In either case, if you swap the pump, you will need an SD computer to finish the installation.

 

All good guidance

Randy - Juri is offering them. I bought a new 430 pump motor but have done nothing other than that. Just wanted to get my hands on one while I could but an adapter plate and some other stuff is needed. Juri has the plug and play solution and I believe Grant installed it.

 

I wasn't sure if it was you or Juri that had it so I covered my bases.

I would be interested to know how that motor is working. The 360 install is hardly OEM and will be a huge hit some day at a concourse event for the next owner of my car. Of course the 100,000 miles won't help him either. haha.

 

I'm sure Grant will see this thread and post later on this evening but IIRC, his is working well.

 

I appreciate everyone’s suggestions here.

Frankly the problems I’ve been having seem to have stumped a lot of people.

Quick recap of the initial symptoms:

1) Car randomly fails to select a gear (most often on downshift). Gear indicator blinks, car coasts to side of road, nothing I do with the paddles makes any difference. Shut car off. Wait a minute or two. Start up, move off, then at some random point further down the road the same thing happens.

2) After a lot of diagnostics and opinions (including changing the accumulator which makes no difference) we replace the CRB with the Hill engineering one and the sensor with a new factory one.

Result: car seems to change gear ok but now there is a strange clutch overheat beeping which occurs once everything is warmed up every time I move off from a stand still.

3) Decide it must be the clutch. After all, it’s original (27,000 miles). Replace clutch. Makes no real difference. Gears change ok but the beeping still occurs. Literally the moment you take your foot off the brake and touch the accelerator the beeping starts and does not stop until changing into second gear.

4) After about 100km of driving like this (over several months) the original symptoms re-appear. The car randomly fails to select the asked for gear, the beeping still happens so we are back to square one or worse.

All diagnostics indicate everything is normal. The pump apparently maintains pressure within acceptable parameters, although it is slow to prime when cold.
Remember, changing the accumulator did nothing.

What else could it be? We are now looking at the pump or pump motor despite it not registering a failure.

 

What was the % of clutch life readings prior to making this decision? As already discussed, we need to know exactly what diagnostic tool your shop has.

 

73%.

Here’s the summary from the dealer. It was the official Ferrari dealer who was diagnosing the car at this point.

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Mine from juri is sworking well. Its plug and play no sd needed.

 

If you can manage a search or look in the diy thread. I posted it there.

New motor with delrin adapter, bolts right in.

 

I need to see a list of "all diagnostics" which seem normal. I feel they are missing something.
Too many things to guess at properly
Beeping just indicates a problem not neccisarily clutch. We all assume clutch because it happens when taking off but I think it could be anything which is not working properly as you take off.

Just a thought butnhave you tried the other modes to see what happens. Maybe they will yield a clue.

Slippry mode and automatic mode?

 

The pump? Really? I would think you would loose the prime on that when installed and need to bleed it all out. Fascinating.

 

Not the pump Randy, pump motor. Remember the other (rather Epic) thread I started?

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-f1-pump-on-355-f1.542112/

 

Gah. Of course. The motor has nothing to do with the fluid side. No fluid at that point (or shouldn't be).

I should know better.

Never mind.....

 

Hey - it's hump day after all

 

Yes sorry motor.

The pump I guess could go but its verry simple and I do not think it would ever wear out, but maybe.

 

Hi All.

I decided to resurrect this old thread as my pump is now behaving in a way that I think must mean I finally have to change it.
About a year ago I replaced the electric motor component with a Juri motor, and although I initially thought it had made a big difference, in the end I really don't think it did a lot. That is not a comment on the motor - which is excellent - but more that I don't believe the motor was the problem.

After not driving the car much at all in the last six months, I've been driving it quite a bit lately.
What I'm noticing is that the pump takes ages to prime, even if I've only been out of the car for, say, half an hour.
Sometimes when I turn the car off I can hear the pump running for a couple of seconds even after the engine is off.
Interestingly, the number of flashes on the dash is low, but the pump itself runs on and on for a long time (20 - 40 sec) before stopping. Way after the light has stopped flashing.
I understand that is likely within parameters if the car is cold, but it should not do that after a short stop. When I first bought the car in that circumstance it would stop priming in a couple of seconds at most.

So, I'm happy to replace the pump itself with a 360 pump (and will therefore have a barely used Juri motor and 355 pump for sale soon), but my question is:

Is there anything else in the system which could be causing slow priming?
What about the piping / tubes etc. that actually carry the fluid? Do they gunk up over time?
Or is there any other part of the system that could become "slow"?

I should point out that every other component of my F1 system is basically brand new (including a new accumulator replaced less than 500 miles ago).

Cheers

 

I can not speak to the 355 with accuracy but let's assume the 360 is similar.
The slow priming/motor burning out are but symptoms of a problem.

In order of likelihood...
a) Clutch TOB is leaking
b) the union block just out side the clutch housing has a crack and is leaking.
c) the O rings in EV0 are worn and leaking.
d) Pressure accumulator has died of old age.

I think that covers it.