I remember reading somewhere about pressing the seal (or pressing something back together) and there is zero margin for error or it will leak.
That is one thing that is common among all WP rebuilds. The 348 water pump is used as a idle bearing on the timing belt and has an inverted pulley which is not intuitive to remove. When it fails, the timing belt goes kaput and the engine coughs up a valve or two. On the 308/328/355, when it fails, you see a puddle on the floor, steam coming off the engine bay, and you normally have time to pull over and shut it off. Those water pumps can also be changed with the engine in the car. Not so for the 348, its engine has to come out for that. Due to the higher risks of collateral damage and the engine out requirement and the new water pump being only $400, it is better just to replace the water pump every 10 years (every other engine out service).
Said one Ferrari designer to another, "hey, let's use the back of the timing belt to run the waterpump -- what could possibly go wrong?" Said another engineer sitting in a nearby cubicle, "If everything goes right, it's genius!" Said the marketing guy, "No worries gentlemen! We only have a two year warranty on these cars anyway!"
Those are the same three guys who made the decision to drill through the oil pan twice to get to the gearbox? Yes, those three.
Thanks. You are talking about part 170787? Is that the HE bearing in the above Ricambi listing. Looks like they replaced that in my last major.
Couple of questions: - When I look up the TSB10-34 kit on Ricambi it also lists part 144488 (driven gear). Is that required by the TSB? - Should the oil pump be replaced while there - wasn't sure on what to look for on that or how long they should go?
144488 is certainly not 'required' as long as you have the capacity to properly weld the fences in place.
Weld before buy, they are pressed on, even new ones. Tacked ones you wont have to worry about. Even if I bought new ones I would tack them. I tacked mine.
As I said before, "what could possibly go wrong?" Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thoughts on if oil has made its way into the clutch housing at some stage. Definite penetration of the clutch plates, however, no noticeable clutch slip when driving. Seal it up and drive it until it’s slips or just replace?
Take the clutch apart and clean it with brake cleaner, replace the triple seals, and check the condition of the flywheel (making sure the seal hasn’t gone and flung grease everywhere).