GT4 instrument panel

I recently removed the instruments and replaced the bulbs with LED lights. That part of the project went well. The problem is the captive nuts for the 6 screws that hold the panels have deteriorated, broken, fallen off or whatever but will not hold the screws. What are the fixing options?

I have considered assorted insert nuts(Rivnuts, Plusnuts, Jacknuts, plastic inserts) but am concerned about crushing or breaking the holding material. Fiberglass, I believe. Could remove the binnacle to get at the back side but who knows where that might lead. Comments or suggestions please.

Thanks.

Keith

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, the clips are not long enough, they will not reach from the edge to the hole. I have searched without success for a long reach clip.

Keith

 

John,

The tabs are fine but most of the imbeded nuts are gone. In 2 cases it appears the fiberglass was tapped to accept the screw, 1 hole is oversized with no nut behind, 2 have nuts are hanging on but not secure,1 is OK. Basically a mess that I would like to clean up.

It seems to come down to 2 choices:

• Insert nut from the front. Jacknuts appear to be the most forgiving, easiest to install and require the least force. This requires a larger hole be drilled leaving less material from the hole to the edge of the tab or flange. The surface behind may have upholstry fragments and not be flat or clean. A washer behind the fiberglass would provide support and a flat surface.
• Remove the binnacle and install new nuts from behind using epoxy or new fiberglass. I am reluctant to dig deeper into the car. It is old and brittle. Each part removed opens the potential of a deep rabbit hole; I could have the entire car disassembled to change a light bulb. Maybe I just need some confidence building. This would result in the most "original" repair.

Give me your thoughts. I appreciate all suggestions.

Keith

 

Thanks for the input I really appreciate your comments. I will post pictures when the project is complete.

Keith
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Finally finished the dash. LED bulbs installed, new wire and lube for the heater controls and new Momo steering wheel. I used the jack nuts to replace the worn out/missing dash retaining nuts. These worked perfect.

Thanks again for the comments.

Keith

 

There is a lot of discussion in previous post by others. Search and you will find lots of info, some contradictory. Generally, I followed two threads which are attached as pdf.

I tried several bulbs to get the brightness. These are the ones I selected are pictured in an attached pdf.

Other thoughts:

• Probably the indicator lights at the tach base could be less bright.
• 
  
• 34442w fits the clock as well as the other small gauges.
• 
  
• I found LEDs were not needed in the turn indicators. The blinking does not provide enough time for the LEDs to light.
• 
  
• There is no need to bypass the rheostat adjustment. The LED bulbs draw less current than the lowest setting so the adjustment has no effect.
• 
  
• Supplying power to either end of the cluster also powers the other end. Protect those wires.
• 
  
• It is much easier to remove/install the instrument cluster if the steering wheel hub is removed. This requires a special ring nut socket. I bought one from Superperformance, $70 delivered.

Hope this is helpful.

Keith

 

I mistakenly flipped the pictures between the speedo and tach. Correct version is attached.