NEW, UPDATED: F355 Radiator Fan Information

Not too much stop and go traffic around here so typically underway fairly quickly. Probably more correct to say 11 down to 10. Typically settles down to about 8 after some flow through the rads (faster street / highway drive). I guess bigger concern is that having rad on for only 10 sec may be symptomatic of an issue. (Fan related?)

Possibly also of note is that while on the track, the temp never went past 13, though obviously I have no idea what the fan behaviour was.

 

My radiator fan on the driver side failed on me. This thread was immensely helpful in clarifying my options. I ended up buying one replacement radiator fan, the OEM fan used by Ferrari, from SPAL. SPAL part number 30102113. Total cost - $128.53 shipped via an Ebay seller. I should be receiving the replacement fan in about a week.

I am posting a few pictures of the fans below. One showing how the fan failed. One showing the working fan from the driver side for comparison of what the damaged fan used to look like. Lastly, one picture showing the back of the fan with the quality control sticker applied from Ferrari indicating it passed QC in February 1997. Both fans had these stickers. Does this mean they are the original fans that have lasted 18 years and 42k miles? If so, not too bad.
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Awesome Information! My 95' only has 19K miles on it and its already due for radiators and fans! My fans dont kick on till the 13 mark (i'd say my average in-town is around the 11 mark), but never goes above. I've replaced the 30a fuse once already - I just dont drive it in the summer time (110* in Cen-Cal).

I was able to find the SPAL 30102113 on Summit Racing for $188. Actually, all of the SPAL #'s you've listed are available on Summit.

Im putting in my order with Euroquipe for the two Aluminum Radiators here in another week, they said its about a two-week turn-around.

Hoping that these w/ Challenge rear grille & Silicone hose kit will cure all of my heating issues.

 

Great thread, I agree. I just replaced my left side fan because I never saw it moving, I will change relays today because even after replacing it nothing changed. I also order new thermo sensors so maybe my problem is there.

 

I will, I order them from the U.K. So maybe next week.

 

I've been using the SPAL 30102050 fans in my F355B for a couple of years now. No issues UNTIL just a couple of weeks ago when we had sustained 90+ temps for a few days.

Under hard use and in stop-and-go traffic at those ambient temperatures, both water and oil went almost to the red, but not quite. Idle and throttle tip-in performance suffered.

I ordered two SPAL 30102113 fans and noted, upon receiving them, that THE MOTORS ARE SEALED. Possibly the design has been changed?

At any rate, temps for water and oil remain stable and within range even when idling or in stop-and-go traffic with A/C on. No issues with the increased current draw (27-ish amps) and no fuses have blown.

So...if you're in a hot climate, I would fully recommend staying with the SPAL 30102113.

 

So are you saying your fans were on constantly and the car still got hotter almost to the red??

 

Reason I ask is in indio at 100 degrees my fan on lhs was still cycling on and off and engine temp did not stay over 200 for any length of time until fan kicked in and engine temp dropped and kicked it off.

 

Sounds like you are not having any problems with your car.

 

Yes. Until I removed the 30102050 fans and replaced them with 30102113 fans, this condition persisted in 95-degree temperature when stopped at idle for more than a few minutes. With the 30102113 fans, however, correct temperatures are maintained even in the cited conditions.

 

Interesting but somewhat puzzling. Perhaps the newer version of these fans has changed. I changed my fans to the lower current version of the Spal fans 4 years ago and have driven in near 100 degree temps with high humidity many times in stop and go traffic (Midwest). Of course the car heats up but the fans cycle normally and were always able to maintain 190 degrees F.

 

Ambient temp was 95 degrees F with 80% relative humidity with no wind. However, since thousands of cars were bumper to bumper either at a standstill or traveling at speeds under 5mph on a 1/2-mile-long stretch of subgrade freeway, it's likely that the air being ingested through my radiators was above 115 degrees F.

 

Your lhs fan blows air outwards is that correct? Towards front of car.

 

Mine workd the same in high ambient temps, not as high humidity though.

 

I can not confirm but I do not think my car fans ever come on when on track only once I exit track and slow down. Then same story cycle once or twice and shut off.

 

Yah, I've never been in something that bad. Don't know what would happen then. Anyway, the higher current draw fans obviously have more cooling capacity and as long as the fuse box temps don't get out of control (not likely with brand new fans), you're probably better off.

 

Both fans are "pull" type, but the turbulent flow present at the intake (just aft of door cutline) makes it feel a bit like air is coming out when you put your hand in front of it.

 

Yep...I think this may have been a factor. It's the only time since I bought my F355 (six years ago) that I've ever been in that kind of situation. It scared me...I thought the temps were going to possibly hurt something...so that's why I switched back to the higher-output fan.

 

Yep...I would think cooling function is at its absolute best on the track!

 

Maybe the water pump is running to slow at idle to change the water fast enough. Just a thought.

On mine I think idling it up a bit makes it heat faster though but maybe at 210 it would not.

 

Kinda what I thought or just a bad fan

 

Based on the Spal website, it looks like the Spal 30102050 runs CCW
VA18-AP71/LL-59A * 16"C/CCW90/12V/PKSL
, and the 2049 CW VA18-AP71/LL-59A * 16"C/12V. Doesn't seem like that would matter except for possible harmonic effects, and the 2050 is significantly cheaper. Am I missing something?