355 Uprated Brake Discs DIY...

I decided to replace my OEM brake discs with cross-drilled 'Uprated Brake Discs' which I ordered from SuperFormance in the UK. The OEM discs looked a bit ragged but I didn't feel like having them resurfaced at this time. Besides, the prior owner of my GTB left a set of new Brembo brake pads in the boot so I figured I better match them up with some new discs.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I'm sure all of you know how to remove wheels and tires so I won't get into that. Although I must say, these wheel hangar tools make the removal and reinstallation process so much easier. I got them from Dave at StickyRX.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login


******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE FRONT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE *******

After I got the wheels and tires off I placed a stack of wood in preparation to support the weight of the brake caliper after dismounting it. There are two 6mm rubber covered wheel-centering fixing screws (hex head) and lock washers securing the discs to the hub.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

There is a retaining clip securing the metal brake line on the bracket and grommet securing another line on that same bracket. I used a flathead screwdriver to leverage the retaining clip off and simply pushed off the grommeted line from the bracket. There is a channel on the hard brake line union which the retaining clip slides in and out of. These captured lines needed to be dismounted before dismounting the brake caliper so these didn't hinder the caliper's movement away from the brake disc after the caliper bolts were removed.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

There are two 19mm bolts (plus star & flat washers) securing the caliper. There are also shims mounted between the caliper and the steering knuckle. I made sure to note how many washers belonged where. Mine had 4 shims per bolt position. The bolts were easy to get to with standard depth sockets.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

After removing the caliper bolts, I simply slid the caliper off while guiding the hard brake line union through its bracket as I rested the caliper on the wood stack. I ensured I wasn't adding stress to the metal brake line. A kink in the brake line would obviously be bad news.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Heres a photo of all of the hardware I needed to remove besides the brake disc of course.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

After I swapped the brake discs I simply reversed the dismounting process. The most difficult task was getting the stack of shims to stay in position while sliding the caliper back on. I started with the lower bolt...

What I ended up doing was slipping the caliper on but stopped shy from aligning the caliper and steering knuckle mounting holes. Then I set the lower bolt in far enough through the caliper mounting hole to provide a ledge (on it's tip) for the stack of shims to hang onto but still have just enough clearance for the mounting faces to slide against each other for alignment. Luckily the threads on the bolts help the shims hang on a bit.

Once I got the shims in position, I slowly eased the caliper in further until the lower mounting hole of the caliper and steering knuckle were lined up. Then I finger tightened the bolt a few turns so it could bear the weight of the caliper and to retain the shims. I used the same technique for the upper bolt and shims.

I obviously replaced the brake pads but I'm sure everyone already knows how to perform that task so I didn't bother taking photos of those procedures.

And here she is!

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Continued...

******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE REAR SIDE OF THE VEHICLE *******

 

For the most part, I utilized the same dismount process as I used for the front calipers with the exception of a few things. There isn't a retaining clip securing a brake line union in the rear section but there is a bracket securing a wire. That bracket is fastened down by the upper caliper bolt. Once I removed the upper bolt I just slightly moved that bracket and wire aside. The upper bolt only had a star washer and the bracket served as a sort of flat washer. The lower bolt had a star washer and a flat washer. I used a 19mm deep socket to undo these bolts.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I also unfastened the brake line from the plastic line-clip. I again used the stack of wood to rest the caliper on.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Since I already had the rear disc off, I elected to replace the parking brake shoes. I took photos of these procedures because it's a bit more trickier than replacing brake pads, especially for those who haven't had prior experience replacing any type of parking brake shoes (I took photos during the re-assembly process hence the 'newer' looking brake shoes).

I placed a flathead screwdriver between the adjuster body and the spring then rotated the spur gear until the piston was fully retracted.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I used an angled pick to pull the spring-end out of the brake shoe.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I removed the two 10mm bolts (plus springs and washers) securing the two brake shoes.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

To maneuver the brake shoes off of the vehicle I just clam-shelled the lower half and lifted the assembly upwards.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I swapped the old brake shoes for the new ones and ensured the notches were matching like so...

For me, it's easier to have the adjuster and spring already pre-mounted before repositioning it back onto the vehicle.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I began the reassembly process by simply reversing the disassembly process. But before remounting the brake shoe bolts, I made sure the hand brake mechanism was seated properly in the brake shoes notches.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

After the brake shoes and related hardware were secured I placed the new disc onto the hub securing it with the two 6mm rubber covered wheel-centering fixing screws.

I then remounted the calipers onto the hub holder utilizing the same technique for the shims I outlined during the reassembly of the front calipers.
I did note that the area around the lower bolt is a bit tight.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

After I got all of it buttoned up I got ready to adjust the parking brake shoes. I completed the disc and brake shoes job on both sides before beginning the parking brake shoes adjustment process.

Continued...

******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE BRAKE SHOES ADJUSTMENT *******

 

To access the spur gear on the adjuster, I needed to align one of the two access holes on the brake disc with the spur gear. It doesn't matter which side of the vehicle you start with but the adjustment direction (tighten or loosen) of the spur gear are opposite depending on which side of the vehicle you are working on.

IF my memory serves me correctly, with a flathead screwdriver...

Driver's side (Left Hand Drive Vehicle):

TIGHTEN: Rotate the spur gear downwards
LOOSEN: Rotate the spur gear upwards

Passenger's side:

TIGHTEN: Rotate the spur gear upwards
LOOSEN: Rotate the spur gear downwards

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Whoever installed the old brake pads didn't apply the anti-squeal material to the backside of the brake pads.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I still need to give my girl a wash but here's how she looks with the new rotors.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I almost forgot to add the rest of the adjustment procedures for the brake shoes...

On the initial go I very firmly tightened up the adjuster (via the spur gear) to make sure the brake shoes were centered within the brake-disc race. I then backed off the brake shoes until it felt like the shoes were barely scraping the race while rotating the disc. After I reached that point, I backed off the brake shoes a bit more by loosening the spur gear one more go.

I then pulled the hand brake to make sure the WHOLE hand brake system (cables, brake shoes, etc,.) settled back into place after all of the work.

Just to ensure all was well, I performed the same brake shoes adjustment one more time.

If the hand brake sounded off more than 4 clicks I would've had to adjust the cable system. Luckily it sounded off at 3 clicks.

 

I bought these months ago but I finally had time to do her complete brake job.

 

I still have the OEM discs. I don't know if they're still within resurfacing spec tolerences. I guess I'll find out when I eventually try and get them turned.

 

I'll see if I can find it locally, if not, I'll search for it on the net. Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated!

 

I actually thought about doing that. Maybe I'll do that during my next pad change. Or... I'll probably just measure the stack with a micrometer and look for a single shim of that thickness.

 

Did you perform a bedding/break-in procedure on your set after the installation? I have cross drilled StopTech's on my Lexus and they came with bedding/break-in instructions but these didn't.