My A/C quit working on my F430

Update, May 28, 2019.

As always, I’m posting for sharing. I’m not here to argue or debate with anyone as I have better things to do.
If this info has helped some of you a simple thanks goes a long way.
Suggestions and helpful recommendations are welcomed.
Complaints and criticisms are taken at a dollar each and are resolved on a case by case basis at my sole discretion

Summary:

Last year July 2018:

• Air Con stopped blowing cold air.
• Took car to Indi Mechanic to diagnose.
• Root cause = A/C Air Compressor has failed. Clutch not engaging.
• Estimate for new F430 AC Compressor part number 263174 = $2K. Labor = $1K. Total $3K.

• Decided to just replace the A/C clutch as compressor is still good.
• Ferrari don’t sell AC Clutch only.
• Found an aftermarket clutch kit on eBay for $350.00.
• Poor quality, lasted only 2 months. Electrical connector broke off.

• I filed warranty claim for the clutch and was sent another one.
• They now have an upgraded version. Connector beefier.
• I did the clutch kit install this time. Super easy.
• This new version lasted 10 months……..My A/C quit working again yesterday, and A/C was seldom used as it was winter time.

The above cost me total parts and labor $1,500.00. What a waste.........
Im done messing around with aftermarket parts. We all live and learn.

Yesterday, I ordered a brand new Ferrari F430 A/C Compressor from Superformance UK (P/N: 263174) = $1,300.00 shipped via 3 day express.
I will do the compressor install myself. Super easy, 3 bolts. Plus the two Freon lines.
Found a local shop familiar with Ferrari’s to bleed the system Freon before compressor removal, then recharge system after compressor replacement.

I will post updates once Im all done and will also share A/C Compressor replacement and bleeding procedures from WSM.

Hope this helps some of you.

Dan

 

Dan, I just want to say that all your post are very informative and you're a great asset to FChat. Thanks.

 

Dan very informative as always, in this world of "influencers" and people trying to get clicks and likes for $$$ it is great to see you sharing your experience to benefit the community without an agenda.

 

Thank you my friends for the kind words.

I like to help people, and always believe in sharing knowledge and experience so that others won't have to suffer or learn the hard way like I did.

Dan

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You are the man...thanks for all you do ..

I live by the same principles

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You will be the 430 AC expert at this rate- out of interest are you charging this with F12 ? as its use in Europe is now illegal. Surprised you can get the stuff as i thought it was withdrawn worldwide, due to the ozone damage it does. Mine still has the original gas which i assume is F12-but does not get much use as rains in summer here

 

Outstanding!

Thanks for helping others too.

Dan

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I leave the refrigerant part to the experts.

The local A/C guy has mobile service. He comes to your house to remove the refrigerant. Once you're done with A/C repairs he comes back to recharge the system, checks it for leaks and ensures system works as it should.

Dan

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Update:
My Air Conditioner is up and running again.
Brand new OEM compressor installed made by Delphi.
New refrigerant loaded in the system. Now system blows super cold air.

Removed and replaced A/C Compressor. OEM Compressor made by Delphi. Part number 263174
Found best price at Superformance UK for $1,125.00 total shipped via 3 day express. With this price no need to buy a remanufactured one.

Removal & replacement of A/C Compressor is very easy. 3 bolts, one electrical connector.

For complete details - attached are simple A/C troubleshooting tips and DIY on how to remove and replace A/C compressor.

Hope this helps some of you.

Dan

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Complete info including troubleshooting tips and copy of WSM for removal and replacement procedures of compressor and accessory belt attached.

Dan

 

Dan, my friend, you are a gentleman and a scholar. ;-)
I love being able to follow your journey on each of the repairs and modifications that you detail for us. THANK YOU!

I'm doing reading this morning, to begin to understand the A/C system. Unfortunately, it was not working on our drive last night. This is the first time since last summer that I've needed it, and when I set the temp to 68, it just kept blowing warm air. So I cranked it to the coolest setting and left it there throughout our drive. We never felt it get cooler than ambient air.

I can't access any of the documents you've attached here, as I'm away from home this weekend and they aren't active links on my phone for some reason.

I really dislike the "off" button, as I'm always second guessing myself about what it's controlling, and in which direction it should be. In my reading today I'm seeing posts about the manual being incorrect, too.
Dan, (or any 430 owners) please confirm that for the Air conditioning to work (get cold) the "off" button should be in the OUT position, right? And the recirc button doesn't matter, correct?

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Hi Dan!

Thanks for the kind words.
Happy to hear my posts have helped you.

I’m here in Raleigh, NC attending our nieces wedding so I can’t access any of my files.

But for now, to the best of my recollection, yes, the A/C button needs to be in the pushed out position for the A/C to work. Then lower the temperature setting.

hope that helps. If not, let me know and I will try my best to help.

Dan L.

 

Have a look in the owners handbook for the AC relays, see if there is one for the compressor clutch. Find it and with the engine running, hold the relay and operate the temp control, see if the relay clicks on and off. This will be the comp clutch engaging. If nothing then look to short out the LP switch on the drier and see if the comp runs

 

I recently repaired my AC setup. With the car lifted and the bottom cover off, I could see the clutch trying to engage. It would disengage so I thought that the pressure switch in the system was notifying the compressor. After a trip to Harbor Freight (AC manifold + vacuum pump) it was confirmed there was no 134a in the system. I removed the hood and accessed the drier since I knew the system likely had been open at some point. I swapped the drier with a new unit and then vacuumed + recharged the system. BTW interesting those new auto-seal cans as you need to add an adapter to allow it to work with the pierce equipment. Time will tell how long it works but I am glad to see this thread and bookmarked for the future.

 

Sj- can you comment on difficulty of vac the ac system? Anything to note?

great thread for diy

 

As easy as any other car. I picked up the needed tools at HF. Their AC manifold kit works with the addition of a vacuum pump. The AC access ports are under the side panel cowl access where the brake fluid is. Check a couple of youtube videos regarding the steps.

I had to take off the hood since I wanted to replace the dryer. My system had no 134a inside it so there was no risk of venting to the atmosphere. The number of grams to fill the system was posted in another thread but I forget the exact number.

 

Perhaps there are some knowledgeable A/C techs who are watching, or someone who has been through this already?

I'm from the school of "eliminate possibilities in the order of difficulty: easy stuff first".

So, Fuses first. On the passenger side; PSF13 and PSF19 are both good. PSR1 (relay) is good.

Next then, in order of easy to access, is the refrigerant level. I bought one of the $50 R134 recharge bottles with the gauge on it. Similar to this one in the photo, below.
Per the instructions on the can, with the car running and A/C on full for 10 minutes, I attached the hose to the low-side, resulting in the needle swinging all the way past the red and BURYING in the far end. That suggests an OVERCHARGE, which makes ZERO sense to me, since the A/C worked last summer, and nobody has touched it since.
Does this make sense to anyone else? IS there some possible way that it's built pressure and is blocked somehow?

Following my order-of-operations, the next step would be to climb underneath and see if I can see the clutch engaging (I'm certainly not hearing it) but if the system is seeing an overcharge and isn't kicking the clutch for this reason, then I really won't learn anything there.

Any ideas? Anybody have any extensive knowledge of A/C systems, and a hypothesis for the symptoms?

TIA
Dan

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Does the dial have any PSI measurement or just color?

 

Yes, the dial goes up to 100PSI, with the RED zone starting about 65psi.

 

Low side should be the one closer to the front of the car. Unfortunately I did not take a shot after the fill for my gauges. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

First - the compressor on the 430 is a variable compressor and doesn't cycle like the older days - goes on when switch is on out position on dash
I would guess the compressor is not engaging at all, cause could be an electrical problem, or internal issue in compressor
Check belts, and see if the compressor is making any different noises when you push the button on dash on and off
If you have a good scanner you can measure pressure on high side and see if any issues by actuating the certain functions
I would return that can ( just not a fan of non virgin refrigerant) and invest in a decent pair of gauges - r134a cans are cheap

The reason you are getting high reading is most likely the standing pressure of the system .. equalized between high and low since there is no suction or a blockage ( less likely)

Report back with your finding

 

aaaah, interesting.
No, I do not think I'm experiencing any change whatsoever in sound or idle when the button is pushed in or out.

Tell me more about this? I have the X431 Mini Pros scanner. I didn't realize I'd be able to monitor things like this with that? Or are you suggesting I hook-up the gauges and then use the scanner to enable functions? (Like what?)

 

The scanner has a data stream function .. look at the various systems and look for a/c function values .. it should have pressure , clutch engaged, buttons pushed on hvac panel ..

On the actuating panel ..you should also have some functions that act like you are pushing buttons but instead of you pushing them it will send signals thru bus and return a status if it made it to sending unit .. like engage clutch and it will return ok


You can go the only route with a multimeter and measure at a/c compressor


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When researching my AC issue it seems some folks fixed theirs by disconnecting the battery for a while. Might want to try that too.

 

The electrical circuit for the AC compressor is quite convoluted. The "on" signal from the control panel goes to the HVAC ECU, then through the pressure switches on the receiver dryer (pins 2 and 5), then to the right hand engine ECU. The engine ECU then sends a signal to the AC compressor relay (PSR1) behind the left hand seat.

The main fuse for the compressor clutch is PSF19 (also behind the LH seat). The compressor relay coil is provided with power by fuse PDF12 on the right hand side, but you'd have other systems failing if that was blown.

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Fuse PSF13 is the HVAC ECU and control panel power source. It also powers the hot water recirculation pump and the little fan on the cabin temperature sensor. You may be able to hear the latter running if you put your ear to the grille in the lower dash. If not, perhaps one layer of toilet tissue held against the grille may be able to detect the suction of the fan (an old engineers trick).

You may be able to activate the airconditioning system by jumpering various components (i.e. the relay and the pressure switches), but as this can bypass safety circuits, it comes with a general warning.