Can the asr light come on from a weak battery

Looks like you need new TPMS sensors and you have a suspension fault. What makes you think the ASR has a problem?

 

With a low battery, all kinds of weird things can happen. Disconnect the battery with the cables and recharge it. Then see what you have. This procedure should get everything going after you reconnect the battery. You will not need to turn off and on the battery disconnect switch, obviously.

Run Cycle



Run cycle.

Turn battery disconnect switch off and turn off all accessories (stereo, A/C, etc).
Let engine get completely cold or wait at least 30 minutes.

Reconnect disconnect switch.

Disarm immobilizer with the fob.
Insert key in ignition and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition to on and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition off and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition on, wait for Check OK, and start. May have to push fob again if 120 seconds have elapsed since last fob actuation.
Let idle with no input whatsoever for 10 minutes.
Turn accessories back on and drive gently for 10-15 minutes at least.
You will have to insert stereo code, if required.

 

I can't help with your current problem, though it looks as thought the Fount of All Knowledge, aka Terry, has done that anyway, but you might like to think about acquiring one of these in case you have a flat battery again. It's small enough to fit in your glovebox, but can start a 550 (mine!) with a completely dead battery, so saving the call to the AAA and a lot of time.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

John- I have one of the older AGM versions I used to carry into the back country while fly fishing, just in case. The new lithium ones are tiny by comparison.

 

Yes they are amazingly small and yet still very poweful. The first time I tried mine I really did not expect ot to work (on a large, high compression engine - my 550). But it did!

 

If a 575M with Motronic 7.1.1 behaves like my F355 Challenge with Motronic 2.7, then a battery with low voltage will display multiple warning lights. My alternator failed while I was on the track at Daytona. At first, it felt like fuel starvation in turns. Then my ABS light came on. The engine started breaking up and I began losing power so I pitted in and had the techs load test the battery. It was down to 2 Volts. The alternator/battery warning light never came on. The cable connector at the alternator was new and secure. The alternator had indeed failed, fortunately on my next to last session of the two-day event. High RPMs and heat are the usual cause of alternator failures in the F355.

This is how it played out...







It's a simple matter to load test your battery with a multimeter...







How old is your battery? How did AAA get your car started?

 

What type of battery did you buy in 2017? Did AAA use a lithium power pack similar to the one John (Bluebottle) posted?

 

Barry- Yup, 7.1.1 works the same in this case. Low battery causes a crap shoot on what lamps will illuminate and what systems become inop.

 

That's what I had, Terry. There were a couple of other warning lights that lit up but I can't remember which. The gas gauge needle was fluctuating wildly which made no sense because we had just added ten gallons of gas.

This was due to high RPMs all around the NASCAR portion of the track. It was my first time to Daytona with the Challenge car and I wasn't using sixth gear so my car spent a lot of time over 8,000 RPM over the two days. The car returned home for a new alternator and battery.

These days, I've learned to pick up sixth gear when the banking levels off. I also carry a spare alternator with me wherever the car goes.

It's amazing that I made it back to the garage on a burned-out alternator and 2 Volts left in the battery!

 

And Terry, these days I also track my Challenge car with this Innova 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor sticking in the cigarette lighter receptacle...


Image Unavailable, Please Login



I mount it upside down so I can see the three LED lights easily as my helmet and HANS device limit my downward vision. It's become part of my gauge scan on straightaways.

I didn't have room on my console to mount a volt meter and I didn't want to sacrifice my clock as it comes in handy on the track. My radio blanking plate has no room for one either. I have left and right cooling fan override switches mounted there...


Image Unavailable, Please Login

That red guarded switch, looking a lot like a bomb bay door switch, is my master ignition switch.

 

Terry, this B52 had a problem with its Teleflex drive cable which had sheared away...

 

Barry- No telling what they had on those early model B-52s.

 

Terry, every time I turn the master ignition switch on in my Challenge car, I think about that B-52 scene. It's a guarded switch but if I have to turn off the ignition in an emergency, all I have to do is press on the red guard and it deflects the toggle switch underneath to the off position. As a WSO, I'm sure you operated such switches countless times.

 

"Stay on the bomb run, boys. I'm gonna get them doors open if it hairlips everybody on Bear Creek."

Classic!

Slim Pickens

 

Barry- Our F-111s had a guarded red switch, too, for arming the nukes. Luckily, I never had to use it except in the sim.