Hi Guys, I need help once again with my Testarossa and I appreciate your help in advance. Engine is F113A040 Short story; I was driving the Testarossa and I stopped at a gas station to put in some gas. I turned the car off and I got out and pumped the gas. When I got back in the car and tried starting it, it would not start. When I would turn the key, it would just make the starter/cranking noise and would not fire or crank over. I had the car towed home and started looking for the issue(s). I read a few treads on the forum and decided to check the following items: 1. Relay in the black box with 10-amp fuse on top (item 15 in the 1990 TR SPC Tav 12). (I replaced this previously and just wanted to check if there was any issue here) · Fuse was ok. · I decided to swap out the relay with a new relay from Racambi. Car still did not start and displayed the same symptoms. 2. I replaced the Bosch relay 0280230006 in the front behind the fuse panel - with a new Durite 0-723-42 (item 8 in the 1990 TR SPC Tav 125). · Bingo! the car started right away, idled perfect and displayed no weird symptoms. Fast forward; I didn’t drive the car for a few day and I started the car today. The car idles very rough almost like it has aggressive cam in it. When I give it throttle the car will not rev higher and wants to stall. I let the car idle for a long time and warm up to operating temp. Even at proper operating temp it will not idle correctly, when I give it throttle it will not rev higher and wants to stall. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it! Thank You in Advance! GTTT
Check the fuse in the little box again. Sounds like it may have blown. Those are the exact symptoms I was getting when mine blew. As for what caused it to blow, I don't know. But I'd check that again. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
I replaced my fuse with a small circuit breaker. It'll reset itself once it stops shorting. I was getting intermittent shorts that would only happen a few times a year. Hard to track down. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
I like that idea ! do you mind sharing how you wired it up and what parts are used to make the circuit breaker? Thank you GTTT
Easy, just replace the fuse on the relay in the little box with this. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-UCB-10-RP-Universal-Circuit/dp/B009WQPSVO It just plugs right in. I haven't had it blow on me, but it should work. I had one time where it just kept blowing the fuse. Burned through 5 fuses, then it decided to just work. Hopefully this solves it until I can find the cause. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Thank you for sharing that link and info. I'll order one of these right away and test it right away. Does it fit in directly or do the prongs/legs need to be shortened?
For my updated relay it fit without issue. The long legs help it fit in. I do warn that I haven't tested the breaker. So use at your own risk. But it should work. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
what do you mean by updated relay? this is the relay that I have, will it fit/work with this factory relay? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I once had the same problem and it was a blown fuse in this little box. but I put the fuse then outside the box to change when blown again - but never has blown then and now I all replaced on my competition to other system. I will try to find a photo of my "fuse work" but just now don´t know where I have stored it
My previous relay was shaped differently. It was made in West Germany. That relay is correct. You may have to remove the clear door. But the breaker fits without issue. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
I will definitely order that circuit breaker and give it a try. I swapped the new ricambi relay back to the Stribel 928.615.124.02 relay that was in the box previously and the symptoms were the exact same. The fuses on top of both relays (new and old) were good when i checked/swapped them. I'm hoping its something simple - fingers crossed. Thank you GTTT
here are now 2 photos from my "fuse modification", so to change without removing the box Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login this box I still have and would be for sale because for me no need anymore. someone interested please send a PM
Hi Turbo-Joe Thank you for sharing those pictures. The external fuse was a really good idea. I may try to make something similar. GTTT
Hi Veedub00, That's a good idea and I should have thought of this, I had a gen 2 viper that had a random issue due a pin in the pcm being pushed back. I'll pull the box out this evening and check the pins to make sure nothing has been pushed back or not making a good connection. Thank You GTTT
When you guys had similar symptoms did your cars smell very rich from the exhaust? - strong fuel smell Thank You, GTTT
Mine was running super lean. Maybe you don't have spark on one side? But you should still be able to drive it if you lose spark on one bank. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Consider adding a panel mount atc fuse holder. Keep the wiring protected in the box. Fuse blows... light comes on: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Kartboy, I read in another thread, if you lose spark on one bank it should still drive. When I give it throttle or rev it the rpms won't go up and the car bog's down.
Hi Guys, I took the black box out of the rear fender to inspect the pins and make sure nothing had been pushed back or was lose etc.. The male pins on the black box look good and firmly in place. The Large round connector that plugs into the black box has two pins that seemed to be pushed back. Pins 15 and 20 were pushed back - Please see attached image. When I pulled the sleeve back to look at the backside of the wires pin #20 was lose and came out of its designated hole. Please see second/third image. I could not figure out how to get the connector apart to fix the issue; 1. How do I get pin pin 20 back in the proper hole and seated tightly? 2. How do I push pin 15 back up and seated tightly? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/replacing-the-9-and-24-pin-connectors-on-the-right-side-of-the-engine-bay-a-tutorial.586155/ Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Basically just push the pins in from the rear until they clip in place. I replaced my connectors a little while back Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk