360 DYI Help -Replace rear seal and Cluch

I saw mine apart at the Ferrari workshop and the trans only had to be moved back a few inches to get at the clutch. Trans doesn't have to come "out" so to speak.

 

usually comes out in between. you move the gearbox rearward, that it.
light weight flywheel----- worth it, but not much. kevlar----no experience, but i'd assume its the same. i don't recommend to replace it with kevlar for longevity purposes because your throw out bearing seals would go first, in which case you'd have to remove the gearbox.
if you are doing Kevlar for money saving purposes, that's another story.

 

Kevlar is a very good option for a clutch plate.

It handles high temps much better.

It is not less costly than standard;it is actually slightly more expensive.

 

That's a very high cost.

There is a clutch rebuilder in SoCal.

I will find the info

Removing transaxle is a lot of wrenching

 

take your time. Don't do it all at one time. Keep track of all the bolts and screws

 

you could mark and rest them to the orig positions

 

use plenty of blue painters tape around the rear panels before removing the challenge grille

prevents scratches

 

Depends upon how many times you think you will bump your head!!!

Should not have to

 

I'll be doing a clutch job in the near future. Please update us with any tips or pointers you come across. From my understanding the kevlar clutches work well on gated but not on F1.

 

My car at 20K, bought it at 19K, had the rear slave cylinder leaking on the clutch...gated 3 pedal, so I would think of replacing the throw out bearing, slave and all while in there. Just my 2 cent...er $3000...experience. HTH.

 

slave cylinder and throw out bearing are the same thing on 360 stick.
3000 dollars isn't much if it includes parts

 

The gearbox does not come straight back and out. It goes back, tilt down at the back to clear the cross member, and then out. You'll figure it out. You need to gearbox to be out of the way if you are going to change the rear main seal. Good luck, it is big job.

 

Ok don’t know why I’m sharing this because I’m sure someone will undoubtably be negative about it.

I’ve been pondering what I would do if my seal on the TOB was leaking but the clutch was still good. This is what I would do before dealing with a “correct” repair costing thousands and a bunch of my time.

Thinking like a medical interventionalist, there is no way to snake a catheter up to the TOB, and there is nothing to put in there to stop the leak. So I thought of this:

1- suck out all the brake fluid from the master reservoir.

2- fill with this:

Bar's Leaks 1350 Clutch Fluid with Stop Leak - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSSZ358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NUwXDbSVBN2CV

3- possibly add a fluorescent dye comparable with brake fluid to aid in determination of the next step.

4- bleed the clutch system until I’m sure the new fluid is in the clutch. system.

5- vacuum out the new fluid from the master to limit possible cross contamination of the brake hydraulic system withe the stuff that will swell the seals. And fill master with my usual brake fluid.

7- bleed some of the new fluid through the clutch to wash out just a little of the stop leak fluid from the master and upstream clutch hydraulic system.

6- now the clutch lines will have the new fluid and brake likes will perhaps only have a minuscule amount that will be diluted by the normal fluid.

7- drive for a while and see what happens. Will take a while to get into the TOB and make a difference.

If it fails I’m no worse off, as I was just going to replace everything anyway.

Only risk I see is contamination of the brake system and master with the fluid that may swell the seals. But if the stop leak fluid is removed from the master I think that risk would be mitigated. I’d be willing to take that risk.


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in a 360, if your RMS leaks, it will sit there and leaks without the engine running at all.

 

Rear main seal leak would be very slow with the car not running, and may be hard to differentiate from residual oil/hydraulic fluid. If not sure I’d add a fluorescent dye to the oil. Then check what leaks out.

May be academic if you are going to take it apart you might as well do clutch , TOB, and rear main as long as you are in there.


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