512 BBi, #51257 ended up in my garage

And a few more pictures. Pulling spark plug sleeves, cleaning block and painting sub assemblies:

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Also stripped the cam covers. Painted them again with etch primer followed by VHT wrinkle paint. The stripes will be sanded down when the VHT paint has cured for a few days and the whole cam cover will be sealed with a final layer of clear mat lack.

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the tape on the injectors is not so good. better would be to use plastic caps like the new ones have. the gasoline vapors inside the injectors react with the adhesive on the tape and can block then the injectors

 

Agree, not ideal but new brass injectors will be installed regardless.

Best Peter

 

then why you covered then the old injectors?

 

I am an old fashion guy that likes to keep the "good" old steel type injectors on a shelf for at least 10 years before I decide to finally through them out....I am still holding on to the old steel injectors from my 308QV, these were changed out 7 years ago...-

 

So I continued to play a bit with the engine while awaiting the chassis back from from the painter. I just completed surface treatment of all engine parts including painting of most aluminium cast parts and plating of most steel parts. The engine mounts had to overhauled in two batches in order to keep the engine safely bolted to the engine stand at all time. Also just received a truckload of engine parts from UK here before the Brexit might influence import tax and free trade.

Best regards Peter

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I changed the shift shaft seal(s) and the silent block bush today. A one hour job with the engine in a stand. All 3 O-rings mounted in the cover were hard like stone and deformed so the job was well worth the effort:

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And one more:

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Changed the main aft seal and the spigot bearing today. Placed the new bearing in the fridge yesterday and added some locking fluid as per original. The original bearing was completely dried out and rusted. The bearing swap was a "standard" job with no big issues, but the seal installation needed some fabrication of a pulling and running tool. Pulling the old seal is easy, but care is needed when installing the new especially when it comes to guiding the seal lip over the crank shaft. I added a little silicone bead were the block half meets. Best Peter
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the supertit 211 from the bearing is running down to the seal and also gets belongs the seal and the crankshaft - not good

 

Nope....no worries, it's a Ferrari. Wiped away with the paper you see behind the bottle. It's a double seal, nothing gets past the front dust seal.

 

Continued the fun in the other end of the engine today. Changed out the outer cam bearings and inner seals below these. These bearings has only done 20K Km, but time and environment is a killer for none lubed bearings and I noticed a slight damage to one of the bearing seals allowing water to penetrate. As can be seen below, corrosion had already affected that bearing. Next up is the water pump.

Best Peter

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Peter, compliments on your restoration, the quality of your work reflects your knowlegde and love for what you are doing; this Boxer is lucky to have you as its owner, the car is the perfect recipient of your talent.
I’m also working on my boxer and about to change the front bearings and seals, most of the threads about this go a different route splitting the transmission and removing the cover to do this work from the inside, I see you fabricated custom extractors to be able to do it from the front, nice job.

Jon

 

Thanks a lot for the nice complements Jon. I'm not doing this for a living so I can afford to take my time and have a little fun with tool fabrication and alike. I'm following your project with great interest and gets a lot of good inspiration from your endeavor as I can see we are working close to parallel. I decided long ago not to split the engine case due to the low millage and a desire to at least have one engine in my stable that has not been broken down into pieces. That is why I go the long route and invest some time and effort to keep the block in one part. Anyhow I did some more wrenching today. Installed the oil manifold and completed overhauling of the water pump with new seals and bearings. Straight forward job with no pit falls apart from a o-ring that didn't fit so I have to wait a couple of days for a new UK delivery. Also checked valve shims and adjusted cam timing. Had to slightly adjust 3 intake and 3 exhaust shims otherwise everything within specification. The boxer uses same shims size as my Dino so finally some "Ferrari" synergi effect. Cam timing is quite handy on a Boxer were the exhaust closing point and intake opening point can be checked against marks on the flywheel (With 0.5 mm valve gap reference shims). I was a bit skeptical with respect to the accuracy of the flywheel marks but they all corresponded perfectly with my dial gauge. Only had to adjust the 7-12 exhaust cam with +-3 deg otherwise no further adjustment.
Best regards Peter

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it is also a fiat effect. all the fiat engines with 2 ohc and 2 valves have the same shims

 

It has been a quite productive day and I ticked several boxes of the more enjoyable types; I completed installation of the intake runners and finally got the last O-ring for the water pump so it could be mounted on the engine. During installation of the pump I learned that the cam belt must be removed for access to the two lower pump housing bolts. That came as a surprise since I remembered to have read that the pump could be serviced with the engine still installed in the car...maybe that's a Testarossa pump? Also completed work on the clutch housing including new oil seals, TO bearing and release shaft bearings. I re-assembled the two original alternators with no further investment than a thorough cleaning, new surface treatment and some general TLC. Finally changed out all the 35 years old Cohline hoses to new stuff using Newman's wonderful and efficient tool.

Nice weekend to all

Peter

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I completed a few sub assemblies over the last couple of days. Pleasant work with no major issues and all spare parts of correct type:

Fuel supply units: Re-assembled with new Cohline fuel hoses and clamps, seals, vibration rubber and plating.

Half shaft: Re-packed with grease new rubber boots, clamps and paint, otherwise no investments. bearing were like new.

Shocks: New paint and bushings and a few new labels, otherwise kept original with the QC labels re-installed.

Calipers: New plating, seals and locking pins. Re-applied the greyish paint on the bolt heads and nuts.

Wishbone arms: New plating and bushings and one new arm otherwise all original. Also re-applied the distinguish grey paint on the inside of the bushings.

Best regards

Peter

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Love your thread.
I'm actually doing a major now on my BBI.
quick question, what color are these overflow hoses suppose to be? Blue or Green?
Where did you end up getting them from?
Thank you in advance.
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Thanks Armen. I'm pretty sure that it's a clear hose originally...Newman might chime in with expert knowledge. My fuel compartment drain hose appear like clear plastic. Most other plastic hoses are greenish colored Cavis . I have no source for original or good looking aftermarket Cavis hose, so my plan is to re-use the old Cavis hoses to the extend possible. Superformance claim they have 5x9 mm and 7x12 mm Clavis hose in stock though, but I have no experience with the quality / originality of this: http://www.superformance.co.uk/246/fuel.html

Best Peter

 

I spent most of today fixing all the fans as follows:

Aircon condenser fan: The motor was re-assembled with freshly plated parts, all internals cleaned out and lubed and new cable sleeve and connector. I was lucky to find a new fan blade in US to replace the original blade that had a broken wing. The housing was blasted and painted earlier this summer.

Radiator fans: New housings and fan blades were sourced in US and a used motor was found in Holland. Motors were re-assembled with newly plated parts and freshly painted motor housings.

Heater fans: New housings and upgraded (bigger) fan wheels was bought in UK. I re-used the old original motors to keep the two stage functionality and the original appearance, but I decided to upgrade the weak resistor system with better cooling by adding a small aluminum plate that's cooled on both sides by the fan. I had to fabricate a couple of sleeves to convert the old motor shaft to the new fan wheels that's designed for a more power full motor. Also changed out all wiring, cable connectors and labels.

Best regards

Peter

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That paint is actually a khaki-ish green originally, not grey.

 

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They use it on the control arm bushings, axle joints and callipers.