Replace trunk latch 89 testarossa

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login So the plastic surround for my trunk latch had the notorious failure of that little plastic stem underneath. I believe I read all the threads regarding fixing it but have run into a few issues.

I have an original part to replace it that I sourced off the internet. I also bought two aluminum aftermarket ones from GT Car Parts. (I figured I would do the engine lid latch while i was at it).

The aluminum one does not have the stem on the bottom but the hole is large enough to pass the end of the cable through with the “eye” to attach to the stud on the chrome latch. But without the stem not sure how it would pull the cable through the sheath?

On the original replacement (with the stem) the hole is only large enough to pass the actual cable through without the eye. I have no idea how to remove the eye form the cable and put it back on.

If someone could give me a little assistance I would really appreciate it. Ive been inspired by “ratarossa guy”!!!

I think I would rather use the aluminum one so I don’t have to do this again and keep the original on the shelf for a rainy day. I attached a few pics showing the cable and the three latches. One broken, one aluminum, and the good replacement

Thanks in advance! I should have worked on my 10spd bike break and gear cables more as a kid.

John

 

I believe the other end of the cable in the engine bay is free (open). It is a pain but, you would thread the cable thru the handle and all the way back to the engine. It is possible!

 

This is for the trunk so is it the same? I believe it’s the same part number so it probably is. Does the wire slide easily through the sheath or does it need to be oiled or so anything?

Thanks for your reply!!

 

Any idea how that aluminum one might work?

 

I would add WD-40 or something. Make sure the cable is not kinked.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Update:

so I attempted to loosen the nut in the “Frunk” so I could pull the cable out than slide it back through in reverse through the latch. There is a nut underneath that needs resistance to loosen the top one but can’t really get a wrench in there so I gave up.
I emailed GT car parts about the issue and replied quickly that they don’t use the stem to avoid the issue of the 90 degree Cable
coming in. (Makes sense but if the stem was made of metal wouldn’t it not break? Maybe the cable would then break all the time?). Any way they said they tell customers to put a small
washer of some sort underneath and glue it to hold the sheath back. So as I was looking at that I thought why wouldn’t you just do same thing with the original part. So I tooK a washer and cut a slit to fit around the cable and under the plastic housing. I didn’t glue it because I don’t think it will go any where and I would like to be able to remove it easily if I have to and not make a mess.
I feel pretty stupid that I spent a few hundred bucks trying to fix something that was ultimately fixed for free! So now I just push the end of the cable With the eye up through the round broken hole of the original latch and place nut to attach to the latch. The washer acts to hold back the sheath and it works fine.
It’s fairly hack. But works. It makes a slightly tinny metallic sound because the washer moves around a bit. I suspect if I glued it it wouldn’t make the sound.

Note: that GT Car Parts were very courteous to offer a full return if I wasnt happy with the aluminum product. I think I’m gonna save the aluminum ones and the original I ordered for a rainy day.