348 Fuel pump replacement

Looking at Ernie's thread it became clear this needs to be done. I decided to replace hoses and what not as well since the old ones are likely brittle. I ran the car down low on fuel and I am betting I can tip one side way up and do them 1 side at a time. we'll see. May wait for slightly warmer weather.

If anyone needs it, here is the parts list I used with the newer 53mm Bosch fuel pumps from Rock Auto. You have to order the right rubber boot/gasket for that size, the pumps are 2 sizes the older 60 mm and 53mm.

Ernie's thread. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-fuel-pump-rebuild.224988/

The top nut I ordered (171752) does not look like the nut in the diagram, well see I guess.

 

This is my next project too on my F355 already purchased the items from Ricambi. Our fuel doesn’t have ethanol like the USA but I’m sure they would still benefit from replacement at 25 years old.

 

Did you get this gasket for the bottom of the pump? They disinagrate

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/collections/fuel-pump-rubber-1990-s-ferrari/126809-pump-gasket-60mm.html

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

You bet, the middle column of parts at the top, the big black things, that's the 53mm item for the pumps. Also the anti vibration base pad.

Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

Cool hard to see on my small screen

 

I appreciate the double check! Cant wait to see how rotted they are when I pull them.

 

Went to Harbor freight to get one of those floor jack cross bars Wade mentioned but they were pout. I ordered online so will be starting very soon.Fuel level is low too and good news is I confirmed my low fuel light works too. I plan on doing a side tilt job so I don't have to drain fuel we'll see I will document.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

So it begins. I jacked the car up and put it on 4 wheel tamps. The I jacked up one side and put jack stands under that side so the car is tilted in a hope to minimize the fuel drainage, as mentioned the low fuel light is on so we'll see. I left the wheel ramps under the jack stand side for extra safety I will be completely under there. Remove the under tray panel and you can see the tank. Looks pretty clean. I have a pounding headache so not sure how far I will get.


Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Don't forget to open the fuel filler cap or the fuel will gurgle out and make a mess. Unscrew the fuel drain plug there is an o-ring on it so that needs to be replaced I will post the part numbers. It is the zinc colored 19mm bolt with a flange on it you can see it above. Low fuel light means 4-5 gallons left so tipping it did nothing but it does give moire access room so worth doing.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Big thanks to Ernie for his post.
When I remove the pump most of the studs came out not the nut off the stud.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Here is pump 1 out. You can see the rot on the rubber sleeve. The terminal boots are like chewing gum and need to be replaced too.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

BTW that black straw sticking up is a vent tube. No idea what it vents as it sits in the rubber sleeve so the bottom is against rubber, like a straw with a thumb on it. I don't see how it vents anything really.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Remove the 2 straps that hold the pump to the base per Ernie you can see the anti vibration pad. When you try and touch it it simply disintegrates.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Here is the bad news on this pump the compression fitting got damaged when removing them, compressing the sides did not deform it to allow it to release. Picture from Ernies thread. Ohh the fitting that was damaged is the one that is NLA so I will need to fabricate a new one.

Here is my damaged on.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
UGH God da&^%^&*&^%$#@@#%^&$ich

I used an aluminum rod to pop the inside cup pout of the outer cup. Here is what is left of the sleeve. I am switching to the newer thinner fuel pump so I need the fittings, need an impact to pop it right off.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Slide the new pump on the sleeve and is snaps into a groove, put it in the cup to test for, the pump should bottom pout and the skirt should bottom out on the flange of the cup. Put it back in the inner cup it clips down lightly. I used a super light mist of silicone spray. Boot slid right down. It only fits one way btw
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Clean the base and the plastic cups using some B12, lots of sticky residue left caked on.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those 2 black anodized fittings get 2 new O-Rings each. In my case only 1 does as I will be making a new line with a new fitting for the line that connects to the banjo fitting on top of the pump.

New Anti-vibration pad had nubs that pop into the bottom cup.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

For the new line I will be removing the old compression fitting (spun it off with an impact) and replace it with a new barbed fitting to replace the oem quick disconnect fitting with fuel submersible line and clamped on using Oetiker ear clamps with Oetiker Straight Jaw Pincer. These are NOT parts that need to be quick disconnect someone goes in there once every 20 years and to be honest those OEM quick disconnect fittings are not that easy anyhow. The OEM lines are barb fitted for the lines anyhow I'm just moving the barb down and eliminating the quick disconnect. Frankly its better. Here is the oem line you can see its a compression barb fitting. Ohh and the quick disconnect is still a barbed fitting itself, just quick disconnect or quick damage as I call it ha ha. Below that are the 2 oem fittings that are the starting point.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

More to come with the new fuel line in and completed pump assembly.
Big thanks to Ernie again.

 

AWESOME.

So no problems switching to the 53mm pumps? I'm presuming I have the 60mm ones (1989). It's on my 2020 job list. Replacing 30 year old pumps is just piece of mind, IMO.

Having a quick disconnect in there is silly. why? some fuel tank safe line, some tiny hose clamps and some barbed fitting would work great.

Those QDs look like stuff BMW uses, btw...

Could you add quantities to your first post? With two pumps, most of those items need qty 2 or multiples....

sjd

 

The "straw" is not a vent, it acts as a dowel to prevent rotation of the rubber boot inside the bowl.

As for the (not so) quick release fittings, you need to make a special tool like the one for Jaguar coolant pipes:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Or use external circlip pliers:
Image Unavailable, Please Login
to spread out the fitting ring.

 

Zero issues switching to the new smaller pumps you just have to get the right boot, its listed above correctly with the correct fuel pumps. Don't think I wast sweating the fitment. Like a glove, they fit perfect.
2 - 53mm boots (153188)
2 - anti vibration pads(126807)
2 - Fuel pumps (BOSCH #69410)
Everything else sells in multiples of 10 if I recall. O-rings, washers, nuts etc.

Ok on my second pump, the quick disconnect barb was already broken before I touched it and any attempt to stretch the other to clear the barb results in broken disconnects. That jag type tool would have been easier but honestly it wold have snapped the plastic, after 25 years they are no longer resilient. I can break them with my hands. The would have popped off eventually.

Save your self trouble and mark one line so you know in and out or you have to trace lines to figure it out.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

The polarities are actually marked I made them red so you can see but the poles are different OD so it pretty hard to make a mistake but it can happen.
Image Unavailable, Please Login


Carnage below here is the boot. btw the rubber anti vibration pad on the bottom was in identical condition to the other pump, it dissented popgun touching. Its like a sand casting on the beach. Looks great till you try and pick it up.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Tip, clean the screen with B12 and a nozzle you'd be surprised how clogged it is despite the naked eye saying otherwise. (yes, I sprayed outside picture is just for illustration)
Image Unavailable, Please Login


BTW new pumps have a screen also, it can be removed btw but I left it in case the 25 year old OEM screen fail in the future.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Don't forget new copper washers, part numbers are above.
Don;t forget new O-Ring on drain plug its best to put it on while at the bench, I lubed the O-Ring with silicone so it does not pinch the plug has a sharp edge and its a compression fit, super easy to damage the O-Ring.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login


Back together pending new fittings. Its back in the car to prevent fuel fumes.I have the old lines so I can make them first then re-pull them and fit them.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

BTW from pulling pump to back in takes about an hour is all. EVERYONE should do this. Mechanically super simple everything is easy reach and easy access nothing like doing a thermostat or FPR with engine in. Basic skill is all it takes. Definitively intro to DIY job for the timid at heart.

 

4 of those grey caps per pump?

sjd

 

NM, I counted in your first post.

 

4 of those grey caps per pump, yep you got it.

 

While I wait for NPT barbs and 2 different submersible hoses fuel hoses and pinch clamp kit, I decided scoured the globe since that's part of the fun, and low and behold I found 2 of the Banjo hose fittings that are NLA, only 2 so it seems I got the last 2 on earth. Ironically they will arrive before the other stuff.

I'll still make the barbed fittings though and record it for others as well as spared for me.

 

For the internal nylon hose dorman make a lot of fittings and do a generic repair kit

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27520-800-300.aspx

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c404/E85-Fuel-Hose-and-Pipe

 

Yep thanks, I got Gates submersible line AND doorman nylon/plastic line like the OEM one (NAPA sells it). The Gates line with 6mm ID makes it about 13mm OD which is thick, the OEM plastic line is like 8mm OD. The OEM Dorman plastic line is great but they don't do bends well,I will try boiling and forming as an experiment and post it. Either way eliminating quick disconnect is a good idea as I mentioned my disconnect was broken the line could have popped off. Pretty sure 1/8 NPT with 1/4 barb is all it takes. I got some coming will posts updates.

 

well is it not a 1/8 PT fitting. That size is correct but the thread pitch is too fine, the OEM fitting is a course thread. No idea what it is it is NPT not AN as it does have a taper. ugh...

 

There we go, two new NLA fuel supply lines just arrived. Total fuel pump refurbish and restoration is quite expensive.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Curiously following this thread as I may need to do this one day. Thanks for posting the pictures and write up. Is it possible to leave the quick connectors in place and not risk breaking them? I assume the 355 is very similar?

 

I think one of the things you replace is the o-rings inside the connectors...arguably yes...unless the o-rings are toast.

sjd

 

It is definitely possible to just leave the connectors in place. If your replacing the pumps you do NOT need to remove them from the base. On mine 1 clip was broken so that would have needed to be done. The other 3 I wanted to inspect it and the O-Rings. In doing so the remaining 3 broke. The nylon clips are pretty tough, they just got brittle in the harsh environment after 25+ years. May as well replace everything and not worry, ever. Again its pretty easy to make lines though, I will do that and post it when I get my stepless clamp kit.

It is really stupid easy to do, draining fuel and all that mess is the hardest part actually

 

It is metric, M10 tapered.