I am really liking the 3.6 liter upgrade, the more i drive the car

I actually drive the car more now because it will get out of its own way. It sounds good too, not as wimpy as before, with the same ANSA sport exhaust. Nothing wrong with the 2V motor, now.

The aux vacuum pump fixed the low vac signal at low RPMs, so there is gobs of braking.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-vp655

I was able to tuck the pump between the upper radiator hose and the headlight bucket, by building a special bracket that clamped to a frame brace/strut.

And the flaky side of the turn signal is starting to be reliable now that it is used more often.

Getting rid of the sodium exh valves also gives peace of mind.

Doug

 

May we have a photo?

 

Personally I think the sweet spot is 300-350 hp. Just enough to have loads of fun and not exceed the chassis capabilities. Don't get me wrong, stupid high hp is fun, but I'm limited doses in that chassis. Hands down though, the GTB is the best way to go when turning up the wick.

More pics..

 

My 3.5 liter 328 was made for torque. Does real good U turns. Much more fun to drive. Hoping to get it to a dyno soon with a stock 328 to see what it is.

 

Stock fuel or efi?
Efi is good for a solid 35hp, probably more so at 3.5L. head flow on the 328 really helps too, short of adapting 348 heads..
My guess, 300-330hp

 

It was built for California smog tests so it is stock cams and CIS. It has 11:1 Wisecos and Crower rods. Recip weight is way lower.

 

Fast spinner, nice!

Going to change that now that you're in TX? Throttle response would improve greatly, in addition to more tq.

 

For anyone having similar vacuum issues, I have seen alternators with vacuum pumps on the back that will probably fit. I'd switch to a 10mm belt though

 

No. I like it fine and have too much else to do.

 

Glad to hear this.
I'm really looking forward to my 4.6L conversion.

 

Is that a typo?

 

I know of a few 4.4 conversions, , 4.8 conversion and a truly marvelous wonderful 5.4 conversion

 

No, it is not a typo but it is the type of thing that upsets 98% of Fchatters.

 

The 308/328 block isn't going to support 4.6L, so you must be using a different series. Do keep us posted on such craziness.

Most we can get out of a 308 series block is a hair over 4L. 360 crank and 89mm bore. no room left to go larger. Combination of deck hight and bore centerline restrictions.

 

I suppose if you put the wrist pin in the oil ring groove and make the cyl walls paper thin (which causes overheating), you can probably get some more CCs.

I wouldn't think those two things would make for reliable high revving, long term driver.

Doug

 

Sure why not, one pass and done!

Something else to keep an eye on, block distortion, at 3.5L it's measurable, at 4L it's a problem. If I could fixture the block to tq the mains I would, as it is tq plates have to do. Heads do not get tqd until the block is mounted to the gearcase. Labour intensive assy.

 

Not upset, intrigued. I didn't think it was possible to go over about 4 litres - there's only so much bore and so much stroke that will fit!

 

So you put torque plates on the decks before you torque up the mains? When you unbolt them, does the crank seize until the heads are on?

 

Even stock the main bores distort when the heads are torqued. With the heads off the main caps will fall off. With heads torqued you have to work to pull them out from between the registers. Or vise versa, I never remember. Not enough to prevent crank movement with the clearances typically found but it moves. I always torque the heads prior to the mains.

 

Not had that happen yet, without the tq plates the crank gets bound a bit, you can feel the resistance to turn. With the plates that goes away, I made notes somewhere about the tq force needed to turn the crank once installed. It's a low number but measurable, same goes for once Pistons are in, though that varies on piston rings, bore dia etc..
These are for the 3.5 & 4L blocks. Stock is not so touchy.

 

Mounting to the gear box supplies a lot of strength. All the alloy Ferrari motors are that way. I know of a Daytona vintage racer who built a small sheet metal oil pan and got rid of the original 30 pounder to save weight and get some more ground clearance. Kept wiping out main bearings until someone finally got him to reinstall the original pan.

 

That must've been frustrating for him...

Yeah, I always viewed it as the girdle. The technology existed then to do sheet metal or aluminum sheet pans but the engineers didn't, so if they are going to the trouble of casting the part it stands to reason there is a reason for it, bracing and cooling given the mass and fins. Least that's what I assume, could be wrong.

 

I'd think casual inspection of one of the bare blocks would tell you it is not the sole source of strength. There just isn't much there.

Without heads and oil pan it must have a ton of torsional and longitudinal flexion going on.


Its why F50 has no head gaskets. As a stressed member head gaskets allowed too much flex and would never maintain a seal.

 

I wish this thread had come up two years ago!


Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat

 

I think Scott is right on the mark the sweet spot is around 300-350 hp. Not that more wouldn’t be better if all other issues were addressed. I have totally enjoyed my 350+ hp so much I decided to change out the old carpet and door cards and window mechanisms. The car runs like the dream is supposed too. Only thing left is to freshen up my targa top. It’s now a pretty ugly grayish, mottled blackish nasty looking thing. Any suggestions? Oops sorry I’ll start a new targa top thread.