Catalyst Error codes 1445, 1446 & 1448 and unknown connector

from your above pic, it is very strange. I thought only the US version 360 spiders has this solenoid that sits on the gearbox frame (whitish thing)

This is also confirmed on the parts diagrams. So that begs the question, is your car us spec or euro spec? A vin would help

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Well, the car was sold new in France by Pozzi, in april 2004.
First digits of the Vin are :
ZFF :
Y : engine : GTC4Lusso T
T : Safety : Airbags
53 : model : 360 Spider, 360 Spider F1
B : Market : Left-Hand Drive, Europe
0 : checksum
0 : model year : NA
0 : plant : Maranello

So I guess either a US wiring was installed on this car, or this wiring was installed on other cars as well.
:-/

 

on a 4th thought, the unused connector I have on my modena, is above the rear RH wheel mudguard.
so I am thinking, maybe that wire was moved to the center of the engine bay on a spider? its very easy to spot the connector on the RH side, if you don't have that connector, maybe that connector you have shouldn't be connected after all.

 

which colors are the 2 wires ?

 

i'll take a pic in couple of hours. its about 500 meters from me, exposed. I am doing a clutch job now.

 

Manu,

In the 360, there are two bypass valve circuits each controlling a bypass valve for one side. The error code should be specific to which side that is, bank 1 or bank 2 and then you can concentrate your effort on that bank. One of the code is saying that the bypass valve is not working on that bank. The unconnected connector is a clue. See if you can find an equivalent one on the other bank.

The O2 sensor reading at zero V means one of 2 things: 1) there is an exhaust leak very close to the O2 sensor mounting position that lets in air to the circuit and the sensor is reacting to that, or 2) the sensor is bad. Ferrari eats O2 sensors for breakfast. Whereas Toyota O2 sensors will last 200,000 miles, it is rare that O2 sensors on a Ferrari last beyond 50,000 miles. Your car is getting there. They are expensive, but you knew that when you signed up for a Ferrari. As for S81, S82 etc., you need to buy a better OBD2 reader, preferably something more than $20. That will tell you the specific location of the sensor where the zero volt is.

Lastly, one of the error code is telling you that there is a misfiring condition on one bank where the excess fuel is burning in the cat converter that is overheating. Try not to drive it much until you fix the problem or it will lead to much more expensive repairs.

Bon chance.

 

here's the connector in a modena, the 4 pics are the same connector zooming in and showing different sides of it
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The unused connector shown on 24000rpm car is unused. You can tell from the corroded connector pins because they have been exposed to open air for years. Manu's connector has clean pins, which means they were plugged into something and now left unplugged.

 

Hello, thanks for your reply and avises.
I have performedseveral tests yesterday and here are the results and interpretation.

I finally understood how to connect to both calculators with my ODB app and wifi module, so I have now enhanced readings and error codes :

1-
I had some random #4 misfire. I say "random" because when one of these code apears, I stop, write it in my log then erase the code, then go back on the road for more driving. 1 time on 4 it was coming back, either from a cold start or a warm start.
So I swapped coils #3 and #4 and went back for more driving tests and never got another misfire from that coil (now on cylinder #3).
But surprisingly I got some misfire random on #2 and #7 on my last drive coming back home. I've logged them then erased the codes as well, but had not yet had a chance to get back driving, so I'll keep the topic posted about that.
Note that these errors did not lead to the "slow down" light, either because the misfires were too rare or because I stopped and erased the errors to see if the problem was consistant and on which cylinder they might happen.

Conclusion and interpretation : It looks like the coils might be old and need replacement, so i'll keep watching them closely, but am quite ready to replace them all.

I understand very clearly that bad firing would lead to overheating of catalysts units, so helping at that stage makes a lot of sense on long term view.

2-
About O2 sensors readings : I met with my friend who has a 360 as well (the one who planted the bad seed in my mind about that particular model !) and we did several readings on both cars with 3 differents ODB units and apps. The good news is that all readings are very, very similar. I was puzzled by the figures I initially read (see pictures at beginning of this topic) but the readings are almost identical on my friend's car.

Note : when I said "the sensor read 0 as min value", it was because the display shows a current value AND min/max values. But the "0" observed on the S-84 "min" reading is also observed on my friend's car, on the same #4 set of figures. We eventually understood that these 4 sets of figures reflects 4 readings on the first sensor on one bank, instead of readings on the 4 sensors, as I wrongly thought it would be.

Note 2 : only one of his ODB app was displaying O2 readings of the 2nd O2 sensor (after the cat) and we couldn't find how to swap calculator to read the other side. So these readings still need to be improved.

Anyway, the sensors reading would make sense only with perfect firing, so the first step is definetly to replace the coils.

3-
ThermoCouple ECUs :
I swapped both ECUs but as I did not have another constant "Slow Down" light, likely because the weather is colder and my test-drives could not really heat up engine and exhaust, I'm still expecting some errors in this area if misfires keep showing up and if I let the error codes in the system.

 

From the mondial drawings, green is V, light blue is A, blue is L, not showing purple but Violet is Z

 

With these misfires moving around, are you sure that the voltage to the ignition system and the coils is constant - if it is not then that will upset the ignition

 

One of the problem with getting a "new to you" car is you never know the history of the car. You don't know how old the plugs are, the coils, whether the injectors are good or bad, when the last service was done and what was done. It's been my experience that a service done right before the sale of the car is normally one that cuts way too many corners. An example is that unknown plug you have. It needs to be plugged into something.

I suggest that you change plugs, coils, fuel filter. Then drive the car but this time don't clear the errors right after they appear. Just let it ride and collect all subsequent errors. Also try to test the bypass valve system while your driving the car. Does it change the volume and pitch of the sound when you drive more aggressively?

A regular OBD scanner can only ready O2 live data from bank 1 of the car. In order to see live data on bank 2, you have to connect a scanner to that second ECU.

Good luck.

 

Hello Mike,
I guess it would be related to the alternator's ouput, which is read with ODB as 14,2V when engine is running.
Is there another mesurement or ODB reading that I should do ?

 

Spark plugs were replaced.
Exhaust valves were un plugged and I replugged them as well when I swaped the Cat's ECUs.
They indeed work as expected.
BTW it might as well be a reason for improvement on Cat's error codes.

I'll follow your advise and keep on driving without clearing codes, to see what happens and eventually collect more codes.
But I'm quite sure that it's the first codes recorded that makes sense. The following errors might result from specific rules within the electronic that infer what's happening and shoot some more codes to make mechanics check on several parts.

 

Thanks a lot !
I'm going to look into the workshop manual for my isolated connector.

 

I found something for you.
the following pic is specifically for a 360 spider.
check these
15s denoation sensor 1
16s LH timing variator
19s detonation sensor 2
20s RH timing sensor
29s modular manifold solenoid
30s intake manifold compensation solenoid
31s secondary air injection valve ( USA only)

for 15s, 16s, 19s, 20s, I am not sure if they have the same connector type as yours.

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No 14.2 Volts should be fine, with the battery being 12 volts and you reading 14.2 v it shows the alternator is charging. When it starts playing up does the volts drop ?

 

I'm not sure my ODB unit and app would detect a drop when starting.

I shall need to access the main connectors and take a proper
measurement.

Anyway I found how to read the second O2 sensor with my odb.

They both look fine even though O7 value look a bit out of range.

See picture.
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Besides, my drive this morning was fine and without any misfire.

 

Some more driving today, to go to the emissions and road test, then to drive for fun on a nearby road, so around 1h driving, plus 20' idling while the guy was testing the car : no faults at all, no error codes, emissions where they should be.

Quite strange.

Mike's post triggered my memory though : The day I had all these codes was after a few days stuck in my garage without running, so likely with a low battery.
Engine starter worked though, but since that day the battery might have been fully recharged with all my driving tests.

That would back up the theory of a low battery which might create misfires, before being fully recharged.

 

Hi Manu, did you end up changing the coils or other parts?
Thanks.

 

No, not yet.
I was waiting to see if O2 sensors were to replace as well, to pass only one order.

 

It seems the most common items that are associated with these issues are the coils, spark plugs, thermocouples, front and rear 02 Lambda sensors and the cat ecu's.
You're doing a great job at diagnosing the problem, hope you get it fixed. I have the same issues.

 

This cheap ODB reader was quite helpful after all.
And the iPhone app is pretty neat and reliable as well, if you know the basics, which I did not when I started this topic.

I'm specialised in air-cooled Porsche, where the early Motronics are simplier and where the K-Jetronic or carbs are much easier to understand for me than these electronic systems, where the documentation barely exists.

 

I also side line on Porsches. While the older DME electronics and K Jet systems are less sophisticated, they are not easy to understand especially the CIS system. At least the OBD2 compliant systems give you hints at what is wrong.

Anyway, how did you connect your tool to the second bank? I do not understand the various views of the O2 sensor captures. In addition to my French being terrible, I don't understand the way the signals are displayed.

I do have one suggestion: after everytime you clear the error code, you must go through a learning cycle with engine cold and then running for 10 minutes. That is one reason not to clear the codes so often.

 

That diagram is very useful. Where did it come from?